the Adventure Vizsla Life
Camping with dogs can mean freedom and an escape from the city, but it can also have it’s own complications, especially if it’s your first time or you camp solo. A good tent can really ease the transition and prevent accidents that might happen. There…
Never been camping with your dog? Here’s the basics to get you thinking! Planning/Before -set up a tent in your home, or your backyard, go inside with your dog, bring lots of treats, and hang out to get them comfortable-zip up and down the tent…
Whiskey just turned 8 and the reality of an older dog is hitting hard. Although we are still doing all the long distance multi-day hiking, the trail runs, and offleash walks at least twice a day, Whiskey’s slowing down and I know she’s getting achy just like me. Sometimes we hike over 12 hours a day, half on scree and boulder fields, scrambling 2000m+ (7000 ft) vertically up and down mountains. The longest hike we did last year was 8 days in a row and Whiskey did every single one of the extra side-trips and peaks.
Just last year I started researching what supplements might be good for joints as a preventative to keep Whiskey oiled and feeling good over long days. Although I have very little knowledge compared to vets or specialists, I’d like to share what we’re using since so many ask. Keep in mind, Whiskey has no current issues and everything is used as a preventative. I also feed my dogs raw at home (other things while we travel), and take a balanced approach to their health (between traditional and holistic). I also do not make money off any links (feel free to buy me a coffee or shop in my store if you want to support me)
Omega-3s Fish Oil– There’s a huge list of studied benefits of Omega-3 fatty acids for humans and the same holds true for puppies and dogs. It can be used as treatment for arthritis and kidney disease in older dogs and is great for skin, coat, nervous system and joints. I use squid oil to avoid mercury.
Glucosamine– One of the most used ingredients for join supplements. Similar to humans, glucosamine helps keep our cartilage healthy but as we age, the body makes less which can lead to joint breakdown and inflammation. Daily supplements usually made of shellfish can relieve pain and help inflammation.
Chondroitin Sulfate-Chondroitin helps mobility and flexibility and prevents the break down of cartilage. It works well combined with Glucosamine to help joints, and even stimulate repair mechanisms.
MSM– is a natural chemical in dogs and humans (and other living things) and is used to treat arthritis. Like Glucosamine and Chondroitin, it can be used to support connective tissue and has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.
Turmeric– The active ingredient in Turmeric is curcumin that has been studied to be an effective anti inflammatory without the side effects of traditional drugs. I use Turmeric after we’ve had a big day, and tend to carry it on hiking road-trips.
CBD– CBD interacts with the endocannabinoid system to block pain signals and reduce joint inflammation. I’ve only used this as a treatment, not preventative but I thought to put this on the list. Make sure any CBD oil you buy is specifically for dogs so there is no trace of THC in it. Not all CBD products are made the same, and my own vet suggests that good quality oil is the most effective way to go.
Egg shell membrane– My physiotherapist suggested I take NEM (Natural Eggshell Membrane) for my own knee issues so naturally, I looked into it for Whiskey. Since we eat eggs all the time, I just feed the membrane to her since it’s a “free” supplement. Egg shell membrane contains proteins such as collagen, but also chondroitin sulfate, and glucosamine so it’s basically an amazing addition to everything else I’m feeding. The easiest way to break the membrane from the egg (if your dog doesn’t eat eggshells) is to crack a bit of the shell at the top, and then use that crack to peel the membrane off.
Some people start their dogs on joint supplements after 3 years old, some only when they see problems like stiff joints or limping after a big day. How much, how soon, you use these depend on your dog, your breed, financial ability and comfort. The availability of specific brands will depend on where you live and the quality of the brand is quite important so dig in a little and ask vets if they do NOT recommend a brand, or sport dog trainers that have tried several local options and can compare. Lastly keep in mind food allergies (specifically shellfish and beef) when choosing supplements.
Nutramax Cosequin- It’s affordable (I buy this at Costco) and includes all the basics (glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate, MSM). Whiskey gets this daily
Green-Lipped Mussels– These mussels are from New Zealand and are super tasty with fries, but also are join supplements with omega-3s, chondroitin and glycosaminoglycans. I buy a powder form and add it with Whiskey’s regular supplements on top of her raw food in the mornings.
FeelGood Omega-3 – I trust this brand of supplements (I use others for both Whiskey and Bourbon) to have carefully researched ingredients for my dogs. I used to use salmon oil but then realized it wasn’t sustainable and higher levels of mercury. Calamari populations are increasing vs krill and fish. Both dogs get this daily!
CBD– I honestly cannot remember the brand we used but it was recommended by my vet. There seems to be quite a difference in quality of the oils so definitely do your research and not just go with the cheapest one.
Recovery– I’ve used this when Whiskey’s had a limp and it’s been recommended by most active senior dog owners I’ve met. I would use this as a treatment, not preventative. It includes MSM and glucosamine hydrochloride as the top ingredients.
Pup Snax™ Daily Immune Plus Probiotic – I recently discovered this from Puppington and it works well as a daily chew for everything. It has Glucosamine, Chondroitin, Wild Alaskan Salmon Oil, Turmeric, and then a probiotic blend on top.
Vizsla’s aren’t the sort of dog that’s good for everyone, they aren’t the “best” family dog, nor the dog that fits into every situation. Contrary to my entire website and life, I find myself discouraging many people I talk to in the dog park from…
One of the best dog-friendly hikes in the area, the “Chief” overlooks the Howe Sound with incredible views of Squamish and peaks around. It’s one of my favorite sunset hikes and an iconic location for locals and tourists alike. There’s loads of blogs and descriptions…
I’ve been using and trying boots on our girls for years and wanted to share an updated revision of my last review here. Many of the older boots are no longer in production but you can still get them used and there are very similar copies out there with the same benefits and issues. I’ve grouped the boots into categories that I’ve made notes on. Please let me know what you think! These are based soley on my opinion and nothing more. My girls do not have dewclaws, and are short-haired Vizslas.
One of the biggest hurdles to booties are dewclaws or if your dog has small paws (in relation to ankles) and the boots slip off easily. Even though my girls do not have these issues, this is the advice I’ve seen works. Dewclaws rub on straps, edges of boots and over time they can bleed and make boots very painful. Some boots have straps in better locations (you need to try them) but even without a strap, the inward pressure on the dewclaw and material rubbing can be painful.
If you notice this happening, use Vet Wrap (any brand will do, same used for humans) which is a self adhesive wrap under and then over the dewclaw. Do not wrap too tightly so it cuts off circulation or too loosely that it will move. It’s to prevent the dewclaw from moving too much. Then either put the boot over it, or use a sock on top.
Socks are another layer of protection for dewclaws, or dogs with paws that are too slim so boots slip off. Either with or without the vet wrap, slide the boot on, and secure with vet wrap or medical tape. Then slip the boots on top. You will need to experiment to see what works best for each circumstance.
These boots are the classic ones I see. They tend to have a soft material on the top, and a rubber sole on the bottom with a strap around the ankle. No matter what anyone says, they are not waterproof, but they’re ok with packed wetter snow. The ankle strap can be very difficult with dewclaws and if you don’t use a sock, they can have a hard time staying on if your dog runs around off leash. A trick is to twist the boot both ways a little bit (clockwise and anticlockwse about a quarter twist) before tightening the strap.
Ruffwear Polar Trex -Thick soles with gaiters. Good idea but Whiskey didn’t like these. She couldn’t feel the ground and the gaiters took up and kept snow inside.
Canine Equipment Ultimate Trail Boots -4 different boots, L/R back sized smaller than front. Discontinued, longer review here. I liked these boots for the thinner soles, easy to put on straps and warranty that my friends had tried. Unfortunately some of the older boots I had purchased had started wearing on the top and the material split disintegrating to pieces. I’m still using whatever is left however.
Hurtta Dog boots – We used these until they broke. The fabric on the middle/center of the heel wore through and made holes. Whiskey didn’t mind these and they stayed on if you pulled the strap tightly and then wove it back through the strap in the front. Otherwise they would come off. A new version is supposed to be coming soon.
Expawlorer Amazon dog boots -All these Amazon boots look like they’re made in the same factory with different names. They seem decent for the low price, ok for dogs without dewclaws walking on leash in packed snow or the city. Depending on your dog’s paws they may stay on for play, or they may not!
This type of boot is what we used on mushing dogs while dogsledding in the Yukon a decade ago. They’re very cheap, easy to put on and off, and are thin so the dogs can feel the ground. You won’t be too frustrated if you loose a couple of these but they won’t last as the fabric does wear out. These boots are good for packed snow on trails, nothing wet (or they will freeze), when you just want to keep the ice out. They’re also a very easy beginner boot if your dog is fussy about the thick soled ones with thick straps
Dog Booties -the simpliest version.
Non-stop Dog Wear -my current favorite for cross country skiing. Even in -20 degrees on a packed trail my girls have not complained and are happy to run. They will not protect as much from direct cold as a thicker sole and does collect ice around the ankles after a couple hours.
There are all higher up the leg than some of the short boots. This can be better or worse for dogs with dewclaws depending on the location of the straps. It’s better for trails where the dogs need just a bit more length so snow doesn’t fill in, but can be worse if the snow does fill in and collects to make ice balls.
Muttluks– I like Muttluks as an emergency bootie but the straps aren’t great so I duct tape them to Bourbon’s paws. They’re also all the same size so looser fit.
Voyager K9 Apparel– the highest boot and better for shorter walks, not major hiking
Great because snow does not stick to Neoprene and even when wet, Neoprene will hold in heat (it’s what wetsuits are made out of to keep people warm in the water). Not great because it’s very thick material and if your dog needs the feel the ground or any kind of technical surface they will probably not like it (Whiskey struggled).
Neopaws – a huge variety of sizes and orthopedic options, but very thick sole
For snow that’s a bit higher but NOT deep snow. Gaiters will fill with deep snow if there isn’t a seal on the boots and snow will just fill in and collect with no way out (we’ve experienced this and took them off in deep snow). Otherwise it’s great because you can’t lose the boots. They’re complicated to put on, but I used them on both dogs without issues or complaints. Backcountry Paws seems to be constantly out of stock, but I would recommend them if they were possible to order. Contrary to what you might think, I would recommend them for more packed trails so snow won’t get in, or for dogs that won’t go swimming in deep snow.
Here’s some other options.
paw Pup Wax – use after out for a long time or exposure to salt
Musher’s wax -works if your dog isn’t cold but gets ice balls around the long hairs between their paws (first would be to cut them shorter). They also do protect for a couple degrees difference (say if your dog needs boots at -5 degrees this might help make a 4 degree difference) and against salt but it does wear off. It it on right before you get out of the car when it’s slightly warmer as I’ve had a harder time when the wax is frozen.
Red Bark Shop– I cannot skip past my store with shirts, hoodies, hats, stickers, and more! Lucky Dog Coffee – Coffee subscriptions (Canadian) that support Vizsla rescue. We love the mugs and dog treats as well Donation to a Vizsla Rescue, or dog rescue close…
Whiskey Bourbon Feeding details Proteins Extras Supplements Meal Bones Sample Meal Travel and Training Amount Benefits and Downsides Risks Switching Digestive Issues Sources Whiskey’s tummy When I first brought Whiskey home, she was eating kibble and for some reason, kibble just didn’t really make “sense”…
Just a little note that I’m not a trainer, a professional in any way, this just just my opinion.
Everything I read about crate training 7 years ago told me to start crate training right away, from the day we brought out puppy home. Boy, I wish I had waited because it was easily the worst part of Whiskey’s puppyhood and we weren’t at our best when sleep deprived. With our new puppy Bourbon 6 years later, I couldn’t believe how easily we transitioned. The key was waiting.
We crate trained Whiskey from the first day we got her. It was in all the books, all the advice I could find and since we were in an apartment and both worked full time, I was anxious to make sure she was crate trained while we were both at work (for her own safety as well as our home). The first night that I popped her in the crate, was the first day we brought her home, away from her littermates, over a long flight from Quebec into this strange new place.
Whiskey cried and cried. She hated it. We stuck to the training plan, took her in and out of her crate 3 times a night when she cried, not sleeping for the first month. We had throw on close, run down to the main floor of our apartment (we lived on the second floor) holding her at 3am, with a leash and treats, to wait for her to potty, then back up into her crate, and back in bed. It was torturous and was hands down the worst part of puppyhood for us.
Because of my research, I had thought to make sure Whiskey’s crate was den-sized. Not too big or she might pee in a corner is what the research showed. My poor girl was so miserable. We played crate games, we let her sleep during the day in her crate, we covered it up with blankets and played calming music. We put all her toys in there and fed her inside (she didn’t like to eat so it wasn’t’ helpful). I put in warmed toys, I slept outside her crate singing to her with my fingers through the bars.
Eventually after what seemed like forever (probably a couple of months) Whiskey would sleep through the night and we developed a routine. We also switched to the largest crate we could find and she was SO much happier. Whiskey NEVER went into her crate voluntarily during the day (and still to this day doesn’t). We left her in her crate when we went to work in the mornings and had a dog walker come take her out mid day. By 6 months of age she was left in the bedroom (only one accident ever) and a couple months later she had the run of the house during the day (Whiskey’s never ruined anything).
Our experience with crating was so opposite others we had talked to, as well as my readings. Whiskey didn’t like a den, she liked the couch or bed. She was a confident dog and she’s never felt the need to “hide” from scary sounds or things and although we finally agreed on her crate as her bed to sleep in at night, she would still crawl in our bed if we forgot to lock the door (or if we travelled).
When I got Bourbon, I was alone and so exhausted from travelling I just didn’t have the energy to deal with a screaming puppy all night long. I had a large crate with me in the room that I filled with blankets and toys, but let Bourbon crawl into bed around my neck and fall asleep.
Having seen Bourbon with her littermates in a warm puppy pile, and having just experienced her screaming her little brains out on the plane in a tiny carrier, I just couldn’t imagine she would be ok sleeping in another cold crate. Surprising (to me) Bourbon slept in bed with me for 7 HOURS the first night. At 8 weeks old! And when she woke up, she woke slowly and because I could feel her waking, I could slowly wake myself up. I didn’t have to jump up and throw on clothes in a rush. I had an extra 3 mins to become conscious, and cradle Bourbon, carrying her outside for a pee. It was AMAZING.
For the next month I slept with Bourbon. She was introduced to the small plastic crate for nap times during the day and accepted about an hour inside. Every evening I would put her into her crate with the door open, and she would crawl into bed with me (we were quarantining for the first 2 weeks and roadtripping for a week more) and she would slowly wake me when she need to pee. On average Bourbon would be able to hold it 6-7 hours at a time.
When we finally transitioned to a larger plastic crate a full month later, we put the entire gigantic crate in the bed between us (sorry no pictures but it was like this. Bourbon predictably screamed for the first 2 days (about 2 hours each) and then fell asleep. On the 3rd day it was about 20mins so crying, and on the 4th day maybe just 5. After that, we put the crate on the floor, and then after 3 months finally she was moved to her permanent crate. We had a regression of about an hour less of sleep when first moving her to the crate (because the screaming and crying and anxiety took so much out of her) so she would average 5-6 hours at a time compared to 6-7 in bed.
Vizslas have a habit of moving and taking up the entire bed so my husband has vetoed dogs sleeping in beds a long while ago. Bourbon’s also got a knack for face and throat punching but we still let her in to cuddle at night before bed, and in the morning before we wake.
I really suggest sleeping with your puppy for the first week or two before transitioning to a crate. This is assuming your breeder hasn’t had the puppies already sleeping in separate crates (crate training) before you get them. I believe because they’re less anxious they can hold their bladder longer, giving everyone more sleep (and sanity) and it’ll be a more gentle wake up call instead of a scream and rush out. It’s less traumatizing moving from warm puppy piles and everything they’ve known.
Then if possible, sleep with the crate in bed and slowly move the crate to the location you prefer. It’s best if the crate is in your room, facing you so your pup can see you and you have quick and easy access and can hear them if they need to wake up at night to go. This might not be possible for everyone, but I found the whole experience (probably the one I was dreading the most) really lovely and got to bond with Bourbon in a way I really wish I could have had with Whiskey.
Also, there’s quite a bit of advice to size your crate to your dog and only put an old towel there, but I’ve found both my girls like large spacious crates (the plastic ones are much preferred to the wired ones) with soft beds. There be concern that they’ll rip up the beds, or soil a larger crate but I just never experienced this and I stayed in the room while crate training. Bourbon had to be shown what to chew on, and given chews/toys but she’s never had the chance to tear into a bed. The longest we have crated her is 2 hours at a time currently.
I also monitor their crate times really closely especially the first weeks (and start with short stints) and only put them in after activity and when you think they should be tired (or bedtime). I do find playing the same soft music helps, and covering the crate with a blanket so they cannot see also helps. Lastly, pay attention to your puppy and see what they gravitate to, what makes them comfortable at home. For Bourbon it was the cavebed so we put that in her crate and she’s happier to sleep there at night.
Puppy crate (borrow or find a used one for the first month)
Full sized crate (4 months and older, although Whiskey prefers 1 size up)
Vancouver’s North Shore has been our go-to for short and long walks ever since we got Whiskey. As the years have gone by, it’s gotten busier and sharing the trail with other hikers, runners, dogs, bikers, and bears becomes a little more difficult. Here’s a…