Tag: tips

  • Paddling with Dogs 101

    Paddling with Dogs 101

    We have always loved different ways of exploring the great outdoors and paddling has always been a wonderful option and complement to all the hiking and camping we do. Over her life, Whiskey has been on paddleboards, canoes of all types, kayaks, and rafts, as well as motorized boats and if you’re wanting to introduce your own pup to watercraft, I hope this gives you a couple tricks and tips we’ve learned!

    One of our first longer canoe rides

    Choose a Location and Watercraft

    Although normally the goal is to stay dry, it’s a good idea to start in an area where the consequences of falling in are not going to be traumatizing or dangerous. If possible find a smaller lake or pool where the water isn’t too cold, on a day without much wind. Beach access is normally easier than docks for getting in and out (especially while holding a dog) and of course it helps if the location is dog-friendly! It also helps if you choose an area with very little distractions (no people, noises, wildlife) so your dog is already calm before adding in a boat.

    packrafts are really stable and can be taken to shallow areas (this is our Alpacka raft)

    Paddleboards and rafts are the most stable, and hardest to flip while also being easier to lift a swimming dog back in and load up. If you’re using a canoe or kayak, try to aim for one that’s as large and wide as possible for stability.

    Whiskey likes to point at things and put her paws up on the

    Because Whiskey loves her comforts, it helps our princess to always have plenty of soft blankets for her to lie on. Start on land, just asking your pup to sit in the watercraft and lie down with treats on hand and lots of praise. I always bring treats when we try something new, and I don’t skimp on them at all! It also really helps to have a calm tired dog, like after a long walk.

    Loading Up

    Start with small sessions and with each success, take a break, enjoy the sun, and then try for a longer one if all is going well (and there is no stress). If you feel like it was a bit of a challenge, then call it a day and end with a success.

    Paddling gets us away from the crowds

    Keep everyone involved calm, even bored acting when you launch. It can also help if you have a friend hold your pup until you’re settled before bringing the dog with you on the watercraft.

    sitting on a paddleboard is a good way to start

    If you’re using a paddleboard, sit or kneel so you’re closest to your dog. If your watercraft is large enough and you can fit two people, see if one person can have 100% of their attention on the dog.

    Once your dog is doing well, move away from the shore or dock to discourage them trying to jump back out (Whiskey sometimes jumps onto shore if we are too close, and then will hop back in at her leisure which makes everything wet and tippy for the humans!).

    we now have our own Oru kayak!

    Be aware that if your family is spread between different boats, your dog might try to get to the other people, so keep the boats further apart until everyone is comfortable. Whiskey is much calmer when I’m the only one out, but if dad is on shore, or in another boat, she constantly wants to say hi and will stand up and wander around.

    little Ginger is a bit easier to train in a canoe as she can’t jump out as easily or tip the boat

    With puppies you will have less control so it’s really essential that they are tired! It’s really great to introduce your puppy before they’ve developed fears so just watch your puppy and go at their comfort level and pace. Treats and commands aren’t usually as effective with puppies, so make sure they can be comfortable and keep everything positive and happy, even if you end up in the water!

    Dog Training commands that help in boats

    Sit/Stay prevent premature exits
    Lie down/Stay during distractions and to make life easy
    Leave it for distractions on the water including birds, seals, other boaters
    In/Out (release command) so you can get into the boat first comfortably

    Safety gear

    We use the Outward Hound jacket

    For calm water, smaller lakes, and paddles close to shore we don’t normally use a life jacket (I’m a long distance swimmer, and Whiskey has no problem swimming distances). However, we do have a lifejacket for ocean paddles, or trickier situations. We use an Outward Hound Standley Sport Life Jacket with Whiskey but other brands should also work well (we see alot people happy with the Ruffwear version). The main thing to look for is that the jacket has a handle so you can easily lift your dog back into the watercraft (or keep your dog from jumping out), a place to clip on a leash, sufficient padding, and a good fit. If you have a dog that might take off swimming after a duck, keep a long leash on them just in case!

  • My Camera and Lenses

    My Camera and Lenses

    Canon 5d (this one was a Mark 3 but I have a Mark 4 now)
    This is my most asked question online. If you only want the answer, it’s currently a Canon 5D mark 4 but if you really want to know how to take great photos, the answer is much more complex and buying the same camera may not be your answer.

    My current arsenal of lenses include the 17-40mm f4, 24-70mm mark 2 f2.8, 70-200mm f4, 50mm f1.2, 85mm f1.8, 135mm f2. When I hike, my current favorite is normally the 24-70mm. With the camera body, this is serious weight (2lbs for the body and 2lbs for the 24-70mm). It’s also pretty darn big hanging off your body as you scramble up rocks and it’s almost too big to hide under a spacious rain jacket if the rain starts pouring down unexpectedly. I have this camera for several reasons- I would like the option to print large and to seriously crop my images. For me, the full frame camera is great but I don’t think most pet owners want to carry such a large weight for those reasons. I’m also working in photography so have an “excuse” for a camera in this price range, and the willingness to carry the kit up and down the mountains. If you already own a dslr and the size/weight becomes an excuse to leave it behind, then I would not suggest anything larger.

    135mm f2 gives a really creamy bokeh

    I really believe the picture you take is always better than the picture you don’t take and a wonderful option are the mirrorless options that are out there now. I just LOVED the Fuji XT1 that we had. It was tiny, pretty tough in the rain, light, perfect for female hands, and the lenses were amazing quality. I much prefered the Fuji body but technically it didn’t stand up to the 5D. I’m also considering moving to the Sony A7 III, and may do soon enough, just for the potential of a better autofocus system (they have dog specific focusing that I’ve not yet tested). Mirrorless cameras include the Canon M100, Canon RP, Nikon Z6, the Sonys (thinking about moving to) and Fujis (I really love the Fuji body).

    50mm f1.2 at it’s widest

    Another option is a cropped frame DSLR sporty camera that has great auto-focusing abilities but is smaller and cheaper than the full frame options. We used to own two cropped-frame Nikon D-90s that were wonderful and lasted 5+ years of photos. Cropped frame cameras include the Nikon D3500, D7200, D500, Canon 80D, Canon 760D, Canon Rebel (my first!), and so many others.

    Lenses

    24-70mm f2.4 that I carry on most of my trips
    70-200mm f4 at the longest, you need two people for this one for dogs

    Lens choices are personal. They depend on the type of photos you like to take, your ability to carry them, and the environment and situation you shoot in. I prefer zoom lenses in most places because as Whiskey moves, I can quickly adapt and get shots that are not just her posing in a certain location. I’m also usually in very restricted spaces where backing up is not an option (like a cliff) so zoom lenses really help with flexibility. In so many cases something amazing is happening and I wouldn’t have much time to switch lenses and I don’t want to be stuck on a prime without knowing what type of photo I’m taking before I start a hike. Also, Whiskey is trained to stay really close to me on trails, and unless my husband is with me, she’s not usually far away enough for me to control (pose) from a great length, so I don’t usually bring a long lens. Overall my go-to is the 24-70mm f2.8 mark 2 which is a big lens but covers most of the range and just captures wonderfully sharp images in difficult situations (ie flares, backlighting, little distortion). Of course, my ability to carry lenses up mountains and hikes severely restrict my options.

    50mm f1.2 I struggle for the lens to pick her eye

    Primes are better if you are not hiking for hours with a pack on, or if you are aiming for a particular look with short depth of field. If we are going out for a photoshoot, I do love my 135mm. It’s a very specialized lens but has the creamiest bokeh and makes anything look great.

    135mm f2 is beautiful but I was backing up in snowshoes in hip deep snow!

    Remember, I shoot dogs which are shorter and smaller than humans so the same lens might not look the same for humans. I’m constantly trying to learn how to use and work with my lenses, and sometimes will just go out with one I haven’t tried in ages. The 50mm 1.2 is the hardest for Whiskey, the short depth of field with a camouflage dog seems like an autofocus challenge, especially in the forest or busy environment. I don’t have as much trouble with a person, but once I start adding foreground elements, it seems like everything including the ground, the trees, and the leaves have more contrast and interest for the autofocus to grab onto than Whiskey’s soft monochrome fur.

    17-40mm f4 for super wide images