The Dog Walks Me

Category: Indoors

  • Puppy Dog Chews- an extensive list

    Puppy Dog Chews- an extensive list

    Over the first 7 months, Vizsla puppies can be very mouthy. They first go through a sharky stage at 3months and then start teething soon after so it’s really good to have multiple options for them to chew on outside of your skin, clothing, furniture, or other valuables.

    Here’s various things we’ve tried, some with more success than others. Neither of my dogs are power chewers. They’re both pretty gentle and thoughtful with their chews and they lose interest quickly. The chews that DID NOT WORK were- nylabones and other synthetic chews. I also didn’t feed rawhide, cooked bones, or anything with too many ingredients.

    Bullysticks
    Bourbon’s Favorite
    Size ideal for Whiskey

    • Somehow the more expensive they are, the more they seem to enjoy them (for the same size, they prefer bison for example). Sometimes there are some particular ones Whiskey doesn’t seem to care for more than others
    • Get the largest ones you can for adult dogs as they will last longer per dollar, and get smaller ones for puppies or they may not be able to chew the gigantic ones
    • Both show medium interest and can lose interest after 10mins
    • Pay extra for odorless if there’s an option and chewing on your furniture
    • $8-20
    • Bourbon (sized small) 1 day, Whiskey (sized Massive) 3 days (I leave them out and they chew on and off but then Whiskey steals Bourbons)

    Himalayan Chews

    • Yak and Cow cheese
    • An old favorite, I love these because we can leave them around the house and Whiskey or Bourbon will chew on them when they’re bored
    • Medium interest, they pick it up here and there
    • Get smaller ones for puppies, although Bourbon happily chews on the larger ones too
    • $11
    • Whiskey/Bourbon 2 weeks
    • Warning- if your dog is a big chewer these wouldn’t last as long, Also If your dog is small and is a big chewer, large pieces in their stomach may not break down. Lastly if your small dog is a powerful chewer they can develop teeth issues so please feed with caution

    Beef Tendon

    • Single ingredient, dehydrated, grass-fed beef
    • Both show great interest and will chew until done
    • Great alternative to bullysticks
    • $7 each
    • Whiskey 20mins/Bourbon 40mins

    Tripe Twists

    • Healthy, single ingredient
    • Best for small dogs/puppies
    • Both love these
    • A bit messy and smelly, so feed on an easily cleanable surface
    • Bourbon 8mins

    Fish Skin

    • Healthy, single ingredient, air dried, sustainable
    • Both love these!
    • $5
    • Bourbon 10mins/Whiskey 2 mins

    Horns

    • Goat/Cow/Lamb horns
    • Whiskey and Bourbon show interest once awhile
    • Can be really loud on hard flooring
    • $18+
    • Bourbon/Whiskey- forever
    • Warning- if your dogs are big powerful chewers they can splinter and cause issues

    Antlers

    • Split/Whole
    • Whiskey’s had the same one since she was a puppy
    • split antlers can be more splintery overtime and dogs can lose interest once the marrow is gone
    • Bourbon doesn’t show much interest, Whiskey picks it up once in awhile
    • We leave these out for chewing here and there
    • Warning- if your dogs are big powerful chewers they can splinter and cause issues
    • $20+
    • Bourbon/Whiskey forever

    Boxes

    Bourbon loves chewing on cardboard boxes so I let her have some (especially since during covid we are receiving so many packages and cardboard is free!) My only concern is that the chewing won’t stop once she gets older but I’m hoping after she finishes teething that she’ll be able to understand what is hers and what isn’t.

    Stuffed Toys

    • I like to have some stuffed toys as options to clothing
    • Neither of my dogs are power chewers so my stuffed toys will eventually break but they tend to last a month so far
    • Bourbon likes to chew soft pillows/blankets so I prefer to teach her to go for a toy instead
    • Whiskey used to bite out of excitement when we came home so she’s trained to bring us a stuffed toy when we come home

    Kongs/West Paw

    • Great to stuff with peanut butter and treats and freeze or just feed
    • Whiskey loves these but Bourbon doesn’t show as much interest so far so Whiskey just steals them
    • $8-22
    • Bourbon just doesn’t seem to want to work for her food, she’d rather take something easier, like a chair leg

    Quado

    • The texture was something Bourbon really liked when she was in her sharkies stage (8 weeks-10 weeks) and she lost her crazy interest but will still play with these
    • $10-20
    • Bourbon 45mis as a puppy

    Pigs Ear

    • limited ingredient but fatty
    • $2 each
    • Bourbon 10 mins Whiskey 4mins

    Crumps Plaque Busters

    • Limited ingredient – made with sweet potatoes, grounded oyster shells, pumpkin spice and coconut oil
    • $8.40 for 8 sticks
    • Bourbon 10 mins Whiskey 2mins

    Turkey Wing/Neck dehydrated

    • Limited ingredient, healthy
    • $8 each
    • Bourbon 15mins Whiskey 5 mins

    Turkey Neck Raw

    • sourced from local raw providers
    • sourced also from local Asian grocery stores
    • you must feed outside or train your dog to stay on a mat
    • meal replacement for puppy
    • $4/lb
    • Bourbon-45mins (she gets faster over time)! Whiskey 5mins

    Venison Trotter dehydrated

    • Limited ingredient, healthy
    • 12$
    • Bourbon 1 hour+ Whiskey 30 mins

    Buffalo Hide Rolls

    • Our favorite long lasting chew, great for power chewers
    • sells out really quickly
    • Single ingredient, well sourced
    • 12-16$
    • Bourbon…(until Whiskey steals it?) Whiskey (several days but I take away inbetween after half an hour)

    Forever Lasting
    Antlers/Horns

    Long Lasting
    Buffalo Hide Rolls, Monster Bullysticks, Himalayan Chews

    Med Lasting
    Smaller Bullysticks, Beef Tendon, Pigs ear, Lamb Trotter, Turkey neck raw, Kongs/Westpaw

    Snacks
    Fish Skin, Tripe Twists, Quado, Turkey neck dehydrated, Plaque Busters

  • Finding a Breeder

    Finding a Breeder

    So you’re sure you want a Vizsla? But how do you find a breeder, a great breeder that will support and help you throughout your pup’s lifetime? What IS a good breeder and what should you look for? These are all subjective of course, but here’s what I find important

    1. Communication is super high on my list. Do they respond to emails quickly and personally? Are they answering all your questions in detail, perhaps they are asking you lots of questions as well (which is great!). If you can, ask to jump on a phone call and ask them about their dogs, their experience, and what they are looking for in a potential client. VISIT if it’s at all possible, and see the living space, meet the parents if possible, and see how the puppies will be brought up.
    2. Testing for health is partially why you don’t just go to a rescue and pick up a dog (if it’s even possible). Make sure both parents have had their eyes, hips, elbows, and what is required in your area tested and the results are good or excellent. ASK about allergies, ask about anxieties, and if any previous puppies have had early deaths, seizures, or history of aggression in any manner.
    3. Dogs have been shown in the showring and/or tested for work (champions in the field). The purpose of this is that to ethically breed, there needs to a purpose, not just monetary to further the breed. There should be thought put into which dog to breed with, their genetics, and if the dogs meet a standard judged by a trained 3rd party. Also, the dog isn’t under the age of 2, or has been bred under the age of 2 (hip tests are generally done after 2).
    4. References from others have had dogs from the breeder, but mostly references from other breeders is key. If multiple reputable breeders respect and would recommend another breeder, that’s a really good sign. When you are rejected, or told that a waiting list is years long (this will happen!), ask the breeder whom they would recommend and why, and don’t forget to ask whom to avoid!
    5. Hard vetting, health guarantees, and contracts that insist the dog will go back the breeder should you not be able to keep the dog. When you approach a breeder, you’ll be asked loads of questions so they can be sure you’re an appropriate family and is a good fit for their dogs. It can seem excessive and I’ve been turned down over and over, but placing a puppy isn’t just a one time business transaction. A good breeder is responsible for all their puppies for their entire lifetimes. This is super important and makes sure that these dogs will never be found in a shelter or rescue. It also gives you recourse if your dog develops health issues early, or is delivered sick.

    Whiskey’s Breeder

    Whiskey’s breeder doesn’t breed anymore but her lines are from Akar in Quebec City. There are a couple breeders I’ve met in person in BC that I would recommended and a couple I’ve heard of from friends as well. We’ve been unlucky with some potential breeders (small litters, no litter, or male only litters) in the past so don’t expect a breeding to work out.

    How to look for a breeder

    Check your local clubs to start with a list. Join a Vizsla meetup to meet the breed and talk to owners. Head over to a local show, or field test day and meet the breeders. Email, call, talk and keep it up!

    Links
    Vizsla Club of America
    VCA Signs of a Responsible Breeder
    VCA code of ethics
    USA list of Vizsla clubs
    National Vizsla Association

    Vizsla Puppies Facebook Group

    Vizsla Canada
    VA Responsible Breeder
    VA list of breeders (not recommended, just a list)
    VA top dogs (review against breeders list)
    Vizsla Society of Ontario
    BC all breed pointer club

    Vizsla forum

  • Update on Environmental Allergies

    It’s been awhile since I’ve updated on Whiskey’s allergies. I suppose it’s because we’ve “solved” them or at least found a solution that works well.

    To quickly summarize, we had noticed that Whiskey would get bumps on her exposed skin (normally ears/head) sometimes when she was outside. These bumps would quickly go away (within an hour or two) once she was inside and sometimes would be so bad she would resemble a Shar-pei. It was pretty clearly environmental, not only because they went away so quickly once out of the elements, but also because it never appeared where she wore a jacket, and sometimes they would appear only on the front of her legs (where she got splashed more) for places where she was more exposed.

    If we miss a dosage, minor bumps

    These allergies were worse when it was raining, especially after a period of dryness (corresponds with high allergens being released and popped by rainfall). We went to a dermatologist, did a full allergy testing (intradermal and blood) and tried Benadryl (no effect) and personalized immunotherapy (no effect).

    Eventually the vet suggested Reactine, which I thought wouldn’t work since Benedryl had no impact, however it worked! And right away! Whiskey is now on two pills of Reactine a day (2x10mg pills in the morning). If I skip a day, sometimes I can see bumps by noon, the effect is so obvious. I buy a large brie (or Camembert) cheese that last a month or longer and wrap her pills in the cheese (cheaper than pill pockets). The Reactine I get at Costco (no-name brand, cheapest option I’ve found). I haven’t noticed any side-effects or issues and I’m SO thankful we’ve found an easy solution although Whiskey will probably be on Reactine for her lifetime.

  • Our Best and Tested Canine Winter Gear

    Our Best and Tested Canine Winter Gear

    Canine Jackets

    When you select a jacket for your dog, think of the conditions you are going out in, and the type of dog you have. Are they normally cold? Do you only need rain/snow protection (some dogs ball up), perhaps you have a summer dog like Whiskey! Are they going to be on a long hike, in wet snow? deep snow? or playing rough with other dogs?

    I find wet snow is much more difficult to protect against as it sticks to the top of alot of jackets and then melts into the jacket instead of just falling off like dryer colder snow. Wet snow also then refreezes and becomes ice causing even more problems. In this case, find a jacket that has a smooth surface so the snow falls off quicker. If warmth is the only issue, then focus on the thickness of the jacket and what areas it covers. Perhaps you use a harness and need to make sure there are openings in the jacket?

    Abby has a double coat of fur that’s long and Whiskey has a single very short coat of fur. Whiskey is wearing Backcountry gaiters and Voyagers k9

    Hurtta Extreme Warmer– best for- dogs with thicker fur, harnesses, dogs that need ear protection (doesn’t stay on a fast moving dog), thicker dogs, size down if between sizes, no velcro

    Hurtta Expedition Parka– best for- dogs that have shorter fur, slimmer dogs, size down if between sizes, no velcro

    Voyagers k9– best for- wet snow, rough play, velcro only, does not fully cover chest but thicker fleece than chillydogs. The most Waterproof winter jacket we have.

    Chillydogs winter jacket fits Whiskey

    Chillydogs.ca – best for- best fit for Whiskey, velcro and clips so it won’t come off even if your puppy tries! Full tummy coverage, fleece is slightly thinner then k9voyagers.

    Hurtta Extreme Overalls– The newest warmest “jacket” with legs that we have tried. Fully adjustable points and ankle tighteners. Can be hard to put on a moving dog and the legs can get tangled into the jacket if you are doing extreme activities (bushwacking/technical climbing) but most activities and range is fine. Snow does stick to the cuffs and and ice over.

    K9topcoat Waterproof Bodysuit– The best and warmest underlayer (or solo layer) we have tried. Whiskey has actually panted in this which is SO rare. Perfect underneath a traditional jacket. Doesn’t collect or gather snow and is waterproof (be careful about ripping with playing dogs or sharp bushes) code WHISKEY15

    Layering Options

    Another layer here would have been helpful! Hurtta Expedition Jacket

    If it gets colder, I would first add boots (dogs lose alot of heat from their paws). Whiskey will lift her paws when she needs boots (she looks uncomfortable, shivering, tail tucked, and lifts one paw after another). After boots are added, think about a fleece layer, or a body-suit underneath. Perhaps a snow suit option. We haven’t tried all the brands yet! Lastly, if it’s very windy (or sunny) Rexspec googles are great. I tend to keep this in my bag until it’s needed (the training to wear these is higher than boots).

    Dog Booties

    Testing out Voyagersk9 dog boots

    No matter what we’ve tried, nothing has been perfect. Velcro on the feet balls up in snow and gets stuck into the teeth causing it to fall off eventually. Boots that fit dogs with fur (ie thicker ankles) don’t do well with dogs with skinny hairless legs. The leg holes end up collecting snow that becomes ice and can be painful if not cleaned up. If the boots are too thin, they can become wet and frozen which doesn’t help. Thick boots rub the ankles, and doesn’t allow the dog to feel the ground. Also no boots give the same grip as a dog’s own paws and claws while climbing obstacles (I assume most people aren’t scrambling rocks in sub-zero conditions but this is a problem for us). There’s a longer blogpost about boots here, but these are what I use

    Hurtta– comfortable, no rubs, holes in the joints after a season’s hard use, must wrap and tuck the strap tightly inside itself to stay put, still comes off after an hour or so

    Canine Equipment Ultimate Trail Boots- comfortable, haven’t tested fully, velcro strap can come off, lightest bootie set (I put this in my bag as a “just in case”)

    Dog gaiters are amazing

    Backcountry Paws– dog gaiters DO NOT COME OFF (won’t lose boots), boots are attached to gaiters, can be an ordeal to put on if multiple dogs, velcro straps can come loose, so you still have to strap really tightly and keep an eye on the velcro, in deep snow can collect inside the leg holes and then the gaiters are useless (do not use in fresh deep snow), offers more protection then just boots

    Muttluks– only good for short periods of calm walking, fabric isn’t waterproof and freezes into ice, paws get wet, good for protection against salt in the city, strap will not stay on long

    Voyagers K9– higher with two straps, fleece so fabric isn’t waterproof outside of the bottom section, can collect snow inside and freeze, not good in wet snow conditions, can be used for shorter periods of time, dryer snow, inside the home, straps don’t have a tightening device

    A well prepped short-haired winter dog

    Dog Goggles

    Goggles are pretty specialized. In most conditions you won’t ever need them. Outside of hunting in bush where their eyes can be damaged, and dogs that already have eye damage, winter use is limited to very windy days, very cold days (yes they really do provide protection from cold) and also long snowy hikes in bright sunshine (eyes can be damaged and sunblind with frequent exposure and will show as they age, Whiskey’s now got many black spots building around her eyes). They take specialized training to use so please think of them as a process, not a quick gimick.

    Dog Mats

    A Vizsla dog in a dog sleeping bag on ice
    Whyld River dog bed

    If we are stopped for awhile or camping, there’s some options that might help-

    Dog mat- Klymit now makes blow up dog beds that separates your dog from the cold ground (like human mats).

    Dog sleeping bags– Whyld River (Discount code: WHISKEY10 ) makes a really thick synthetic insulated sleeping bag. Sometimes I bring just the bottom layer for rest stops on longer hikes (I end up sitting on it, because Whiskey prefers a warm lap)

    Extra down jacket- For multi-use bring an extra down jacket or blanket that anyone can use. I lay it out for Whiskey to sit on if needed.

    Human Gear

    A group of women hiking in snow all geared up for winter
    All geared up for subzero temps

    Crampons/Microspikes- I prefer to use microspikes when the start of a hike isn’t snowy or needing the spikes, and if a hike is fully in snow/ice, then I prefer crampons (the type for hiking, not ice climbing). Crampons do not ball up but are alot more aggressive, they also do bot break as easily as the stretchy microspikes but I would not want to use them over rock or trails not fully covered in snow. My preferred brand is Hillsound

    aggressive crampons in action for hiking
    Hillsound Crampons

    Snowshoes– only needed with lots of fresh powder, otherwise use crampons/microspikes. They can be cumbersome and unnecessary on a packed trail, if hiking proper incline, get snowshoes with metal spikes that go along the sides, not just the teeth under the toes (MSRs)

    Hiking poles with baskets– Hiking poles that have the ability to take on and take off snow baskets are great! I prefer black diamond poles so far.

    Snowshoes and gaiters are key to hiking in snow
    Hillsound Gaiters, MSR snowshoes

    Gaiters– gaiters prevent snow from entering your boots should you be post-holing. They aren’t needed if you are only sticking to well trekked out trails and won’t be going into deeper snow, however if there is a chance you might, better be safe! I prefer Hillsound

    Boots- Ankle high boots with a solid support and thickness to keep you warm. Boots are super personal so make sure yours is comfortable with winter socks

    Socks/Clothes- I prefer merino wool! It keeps you warm even when wet which is so useful if you’re sweating in sub zero temperatures. Select socks with more than 75% merino and carry an extra pair if you might be doing any river crossings.

    Headlamp– in Canada winter hiking means less daylight and the likelyhood of heading back in the dark (or starting in the dark). It’s always good practice to bring a headlamp with extra batteries (cold batteries drain faster) that are NOT rechargeable (those drain much faster), or a charger for usb headlamps.

    Extras- Gloves, mittens, hats, neck gaiters, down jackets, and a good shell are all important. There’s more than enough options for these but bring more than you think you might need. Your friend might!

  • Paddling with Dogs 101

    Paddling with Dogs 101

    We have always loved different ways of exploring the great outdoors and paddling has always been a wonderful option and complement to all the hiking and camping we do. Over her life, Whiskey has been on paddleboards, canoes of all types, kayaks, and rafts, as well as motorized boats and if you’re wanting to introduce your own pup to watercraft, I hope this gives you a couple tricks and tips we’ve learned!

    One of our first longer canoe rides

    Choose a Location and Watercraft

    Although normally the goal is to stay dry, it’s a good idea to start in an area where the consequences of falling in are not going to be traumatizing or dangerous. If possible find a smaller lake or pool where the water isn’t too cold, on a day without much wind. Beach access is normally easier than docks for getting in and out (especially while holding a dog) and of course it helps if the location is dog-friendly! It also helps if you choose an area with very little distractions (no people, noises, wildlife) so your dog is already calm before adding in a boat.

    packrafts are really stable and can be taken to shallow areas (this is our Alpacka raft)

    Paddleboards and rafts are the most stable, and hardest to flip while also being easier to lift a swimming dog back in and load up. If you’re using a canoe or kayak, try to aim for one that’s as large and wide as possible for stability.

    Whiskey likes to point at things and put her paws up on the

    Because Whiskey loves her comforts, it helps our princess to always have plenty of soft blankets for her to lie on. Start on land, just asking your pup to sit in the watercraft and lie down with treats on hand and lots of praise. I always bring treats when we try something new, and I don’t skimp on them at all! It also really helps to have a calm tired dog, like after a long walk.

    Loading Up

    Start with small sessions and with each success, take a break, enjoy the sun, and then try for a longer one if all is going well (and there is no stress). If you feel like it was a bit of a challenge, then call it a day and end with a success.

    Paddling gets us away from the crowds

    Keep everyone involved calm, even bored acting when you launch. It can also help if you have a friend hold your pup until you’re settled before bringing the dog with you on the watercraft.

    sitting on a paddleboard is a good way to start

    If you’re using a paddleboard, sit or kneel so you’re closest to your dog. If your watercraft is large enough and you can fit two people, see if one person can have 100% of their attention on the dog.

    Once your dog is doing well, move away from the shore or dock to discourage them trying to jump back out (Whiskey sometimes jumps onto shore if we are too close, and then will hop back in at her leisure which makes everything wet and tippy for the humans!).

    we now have our own Oru kayak!

    Be aware that if your family is spread between different boats, your dog might try to get to the other people, so keep the boats further apart until everyone is comfortable. Whiskey is much calmer when I’m the only one out, but if dad is on shore, or in another boat, she constantly wants to say hi and will stand up and wander around.

    little Ginger is a bit easier to train in a canoe as she can’t jump out as easily or tip the boat

    With puppies you will have less control so it’s really essential that they are tired! It’s really great to introduce your puppy before they’ve developed fears so just watch your puppy and go at their comfort level and pace. Treats and commands aren’t usually as effective with puppies, so make sure they can be comfortable and keep everything positive and happy, even if you end up in the water!

    Dog Training commands that help in boats

    –Sit/Stay prevent premature exits
    –Lie down/Stay during distractions and to make life easy
    –Leave it for distractions on the water including birds, seals, other boaters
    –In/Out (release command) so you can get into the boat first comfortably

    Safety gear

    We use the Outward Hound jacket

    For calm water, smaller lakes, and paddles close to shore we don’t normally use a life jacket (I’m a long distance swimmer, and Whiskey has no problem swimming distances). However, we do have a lifejacket for ocean paddles, or trickier situations. We use an Outward Hound Standley Sport Life Jacket with Whiskey but other brands should also work well (we see alot people happy with the Ruffwear version). The main thing to look for is that the jacket has a handle so you can easily lift your dog back into the watercraft (or keep your dog from jumping out), a place to clip on a leash, sufficient padding, and a good fit. If you have a dog that might take off swimming after a duck, keep a long leash on them just in case!

  • Dog Winter Boots: a Detailed Review and Comparison

    Dog Winter Boots: a Detailed Review and Comparison

    We’ve been getting so many questions about dog boots that we finally decided to put together a bunch, test them, and review them in real trail conditions. Please let us know your experience in winter boots! Whiskey has no dewclaws so it was only because of personal messages we were able to record what has and hasn’t’ worked for others. There are alot of other brands we didn’t get to try and we concentrated on some of the higher-end boots. Remember, a rectangle pocket with a velcro at the top is what most sled dogs use (although loads go missing) in the arctic and it’s a real option too!

     SizesCost (4)DescriptionPhoto

    Voyagers k9 Apparel    		Breed Specific
    4 sizes per breed
    mid-large breeds
    Buy 4    		48-50 USDPolartec fleece with mega grip bottom soles, two straps of velcro, specific to snow and ice.

    Canine Equipment
    Ultimate Trail Boots     		1.75-3.25 (back paw smaller)
    5 sizes total
    buy 4    		70 CADAnkle boots with flexible rubber soles and soft upper. One velcro strap over the ankle.

    Ruffwear
    Polar Trex         		1.5-3.25 inches
    8 sizes total
    buy 2 or 4    		100 USDSpecialized winter boots designed for warmth, softshell fabric, Vibram outsole, velcro strap and pullover stretch gaiters. Ankle high but height extended with gaiters

    Neo-Paws
    Neoprene Regular
    Performance Boots     		1.25-5 inches
    12 sizes total
    buy sets of 2    		44-68 CADNeoprene boots that are higher up the ankle, super long wrap around velcro strap, thick sole
    Hurtta
    Outback Boots     		1.25-3 inches
    5 sizes total
    buy sets of 2

    		60 USDShort ankle boots with light softshell material, flexible rubber soles
    Muttluks
    All Weather
    Leather Sole    		.5-5 inches
    8 sizes total
    buy sets of 4    		57 CADSlip on boots with flexible leather sole, one strap at ankle

    Backcountry.Paws
    Gaiters     		20-85lbs
    measure at the shoulder
    4 sizes    		80 USDSpecialized gaiters for dogs. Ripstop fabric that combines a boot with legging that goes up to the thighs.
     Our testUpsidesDownsidesBest use

    Voyagers k9 Apparel    		 We’ve had these for several seasons and taken them on numerous occasions in hip deep dry snow to, packed snowy trails, on longer and shorter hikes. Our friends have also used these.-The only boots made of fleece, good for dry days, or dry (cold) snow, packed snowy trails, or a thin layer of snow. -Simple to put on and off (each boot is the same), boots are much higher than other in the market.
    -Boots are easy to wash and dry
    -Are also good for indoor use    		-Specialized for snow, not mixed terrain (also good for indoors). Snow collects on the fleece when it’s wet (packing snowball) snow, and the top of the boots are not lined, so once they are wet, they will freeze. They will slowly slip down the leg if the velcro is not tight enough, but due to the length that’s alot easier to catch than short boots which will disappear easier. Missing a cinch to tighten the straps so harder to do up
    -not dewclaw friendly    		-dry snow
    -packed snow
    -up to 6inches fresh powder

    Canine Equipment
    Ultimate Trail Boots    		 We tried these on a packed 8km snowy packed hike with 350 incline. Our friends have used these as well.-These are the one of the lightest boots with very thin soles so Whiskey can easily feel the ground with her paws.
    -She seemed really happy in these and when we tightended the top of the boots we didn’t see much snow entering on a packed trail
    -Canine Equipment is the only brand that I know of here that will repair or replace a boot without limitations on their guarantee
    -Great customer service    		 
    The soft shell material is not waterproof and will get wet if it’s not cold enough to keep the snow from melting on the booties. The soles can be a bit slippery on ice
    -needs more sizes
    -are sold in 4s with assumption that back paw is summer than front (so out of luck if your paws don’t fit their measurements, luckily we did!)    		-dry snow
    -packed snow
    -summer season/rocks
    -good all-rounder

    Ruffwear
    Polar Trex    		 We tried these on a packed 5km trail, about 200m incline-These boots are specifically made for winter hiking and have the thickest soles of the ankle high boots that we’ve tried (I’m thinking the soles would last the longest)
    -They are the only ones that come with gaiters included.
    -Great customer service    		-Whiskey’s ankles are so thin that the top of the gaiters were not tight on her and instead of keeping snow out, they let and kept snow inside leading her paws to be really cold and wet.
    -She did not seem overly comfortable in these, I’m not sure if it’s the inflexible sole or the shape of the boot
    -and we’ve heard of other dogs having blisters on the top of their paws from these boots. We’ve also heard these can be uncomfortable with dewclaws    		-packed snow
    -dry snow

    Neo-Paws
    Neoprene Regular
    Performance Boots    		 We tried these on a local walk as well as a 4km 150m incline on packed and loose snow-The only boots made of Neoprene which is a material that keeps it’s warmth even when wet
    -These are also the only boots that are recommended for watersports (we have not tried)
    -The brand also makes attachable ice cleats and gaiters.
    -The velcro strap is super long and lets you adjust the tightness up the leg easily
    -Made with dewclaws in mind
    -The largest amount of different sizes available that I could find
    -comes in regular and orthopedic options
    		-The boot is overall pretty heavy and thick and might keep a dog too warm in the summer (they have summer options though)
    -because the boot is thicker and inflexible, it takes longer for Whiskey to become accustomed to wearing them
    -The website is a pain to navigate and badly needs an update
    -There is a longer learning curve to putting on these boots than others and takes more due diligence
    -Customer service can be a problem
    -In terms of the boot covers, there isn’t measurable sizing and the M was too big for Whiskey, the ice cleats made the entire boot too chunky

    		-all snow, wet and dry
    -packed and powder snow
    -all terrain in all seasons outside where your dog may be too warm
    -good for water use
    Hurtta
    Outback Boots    		 We’ve had these for several years and have used these on loads of trails in both snowy and rocky conditions-With modification on how you deal with the strap, these can be great boots
    -flexible sole, Whiskey feels comfortable in these and feeling the ground
    -top concern is the velcro strap does not stay on unless you tuck it up and underneath itself
    -the loop part of the velcro at the back of the boot sewing is coming undone over time and the bottom of the boot where it meets the sole also is having holes
    -needs more sizes    		-dry snow
    -packed snow
    -all terrain in summer but will wear out near edges

    Muttluks
    All Weather
    Leather Sole    		 We’ve had these boots the longest since Whiskey was 1 years old and have tried these in the city as well as snowy trails. Our friends also have the same.-if you modify the strap, the can be great boots
    -easy to fit, all paws are the same
    -the leather sole has more grip than most boots we found
    -can be modified to be waterproof with was
    -very multi purpose (we use with an injured paw on sidewalks and great to slip one in your first aid kit for hiking because one bootie will cover any injured paw)    		-not waterproof unless you modify
    -straps are assuming an ankle that is alot bigger than Whiskeys’
    -tends to slide off (we have to be careful not to lose one)
    -velcro tends to get undone and boot can flip around with an energetic running dog
    -snow goes inside the top of the boot and collects there, so not recommended with deeper snow
    -not dewclaw friendly    		-dry/wet snow
    -packed snow (powder to 4 inches, wet snow packed only)
    -all terrain in summer

    Backcountry.Paws
    Gaiters    		 We’ve tried these on two longer hikes in both packed and very deep and loose snow (Whiskey deep snow).Losing a boot is not a problem anymore! On packed snow basically guranteed paws will not get wet or cold. Works really well paired with a jacket for a full winter suit. Whiskey seemed really happy in these. The boots didn’t restrict at all and are thin enough she can fee the ground well.  
    -In very deep snow, we had snow piling into the back legs and no way to get the snow out, outside of taking off the gaiters (we finished the hike with just front gaiters on)
    -Difficult to put on, legs would be alot looser on skinny dogs
    -Very specialized, only good for snowy trails    		-dry and wet snow up to 6 inches
     Ease of useTerrainRecommendations

    Voyagers k9 Apparel    		 These can be tough to estimate size and can be a bit difficult to get the paw all the way inside (especially if your front paws are larger). We’ve had readers tell us dewclaws can be an issue. The velcro straps do not have cinch closure.Good for packed trails and cold snowy conditions. Also good for indoors. Would not recomend for rocks or summer use. I would use these on shorter packed snowy trails and inside the house 

    Canine Equipment
    Ultimate Trail Boots    		 These are one of the easiest to put on and tighten. Very wide opening for paws to slip into.
    Cinch closure is quick to tighten.     		Good for most uses including packed snowy trails, rocky terrain, summer trails, but not mud/swimming. I would use these in most outdoorconditions 

    Ruffwear
    Polar Trex    		 These are harder to get into, the gusset isn’t as large as others and can be more difficult with a gaiter in the way. Cinch closure is quick to tighten. Reported problems with dewclaws. Good for cold conditions, snow conditions, but could be too warm for summer I would use these in packed snowy trails, or mix of snow/rocky trails. 

    Neo-Paws
    Neoprene Regular
    Performance Boots    		 These took us a couple tries to learn how to put on properly. Neoprene is a more difficult material to hold down and tighten a strap over. Flip the boot inside out to help place the paw and gather the strap tightly over itself around the ankle before working your way up. You must layer the boot properly and takes some practice. -good for most conditions including swimming, but not hot conditions when a dog can overheat-I would use these in colder conditions on trails that were not technical 
    Hurtta
    Outback Boots    		 These boots are easy to slip on but are difficult to wrap the strap in a way that doesn’t detach itself over time. We’ve learned that we need to wrap the strap very tightly over itself and tuck the end into the strap as far as we can in order for the boot to stay put. If you wrap like in the photo, it will come off. -good for most conditions and terrain I would use these in most outdoor conditions 

    Muttluks
    All Weather
    Leather Sole    		 These are really easy to put on, but the strap is hard to tighten enough to keep the boot on over time. -Good for shorter walks while not playing or running too hard.
    		 I would use these on shorter trails, on pavement and inside the house 

    Backcountry.Paws
    Gaiters    		 These are pretty involved to put on and involve several straps on top of the dog. You’ll need to size properly at home first before attempting to put on in a car while your dog has decided it really wants to run out the door onto the trail! Make sure you strap those ankles tightly and get all straps tight enough to keep on but loose enough that they don’t rub. At least you’re almost guaranteed never to loose a boot! -good for snowy conditions (but not super deep snow) I would use these in all snowy conditions except for super deep snow 

    So in conclusion if you asked me which I would recommend I would say it really depends on what your lifestyle is like, and what dog you have. Firstly, what boots actually fit your dog? What is your budget? Then, I would highly recommend you see if you can go try on boots at any local dog store and see what your dog tolerates. My suggestion to get a dog used to boots is to bring lots of treats and keep them moving and doing tricks, running and basically forgetting about the boots. Try them over short periods of time with lots of praise, fun, treats, and in an exciting location. Most of these boots are fine for packed trails, but when you get to deeper snow, then pay attention to the top of the boots and see if you think snow could get in and collect. Each dog’s ankles fit differently, check to see the top of the boot, if you think rubbing might be an issue, and of course keep an eye on dewclaws if you have them. See if you need a boot for all occasions, or can pick a specialized boot. We are going to keep updating this chart as we work with all these boots for the next winters coming, please help us!

  • Our favorite Whiskey gear

    Our favorite Whiskey gear

    Just a list of gear that we’ve loved over the years!
    • Ruffwear Approach Pack –link
    Whiskey is between a size medium and small so we went with the Medium (she most likely will gain not lose weight over time). The straps are great and adjust in so many ways and the pack fits really well. It’s nice that she can help me carry her own food on overnighters and the pack is really well built. They don’t make the blue color anymore, ours is so old! We are also looking at trying a fancier model and will report back!
    • Kong K9 water bottle –link
    The easiest way we found to carry water on a long hike. The lid doubles as a bowl and I’ve always much preferred stainless steel over plastic to carry water. A super simple solution to bringing an extra bowl. If you’re weird like me, you can share the water with your dog too!
    One of our favorite jackets! Whiskey has an amazing nose that we have trained even further with sniff training but unfortunately that means she finds poop or smelly things to roll in much more than the regular dog. That means her jackets must stand countless washes while also fitting perfectly and looking great for photos. The fleece is extra thick in the brand and the shape is just wonderful. The Trail Blazer is warm and water proof and the Great White North has been through the deepest snow and trails where Whiskey is practically swimming. The price is high, but it’s worth it!
    This breed-specific brand is great for those long and skinny dogs where nothing “regular” fits! The winter jacket is similar to the chillydogs brand (if you are in Canada, order the chillydogs, if you’re in the US order Voyagers for cheaper shipping) but the rainjacket is unique and super cute!
    This Finnish line is sort of like the “North Face” of dog clothing. They use reflective materials to trap in bodyheat in their Extreme Warmer and their leash is our favorite for hiking with woven reflectivity. Because their jackets are on the larger side, we can layer in a fleece if we are winter camping and everything has gone through the wash numerous times and have come out great. However, they don’t make breed specific clothes so if your V is extra lean or long I would go with one of the other brands. If you have a long-haired dog, I would check out the rest of their line, there’s so many amazing options!
    The best dog beds we have tried. When we got a new puppy, we were told to buy a cheap bed until she grew older but I couldn’t help it. Our doughnut bed has been washed countless times, been peed on, dug in, vomited in, ever since she was a puppy and most of it looks brand new. We have gone through several other cheaper dog beds but she’s made it abundantly clear this one is the best one. We’ve since gotten another for travel and love it just the same! Again, the beds are really expensive, but I found it’s totally worth it.
    Whiskey loves cuddling in this during the winter. It’s not as useful for warm climates but it’s a must-have for short haired dogs and doesn’t last as long as the Bowser beds but Whiskey loves hers. She uses a Large size, if you have 2 Vs then get an XL! The link goes to the company site but we buy on Amazon as shipping is free for Prime. The plastic tube that keeps the shape has problems staying in place and the stuffing isn’t’ as plump but it still the favorite spot on a cold day. Whiskey normally spends a good 6 months “digging” inside this bed to defluff it though so it’s been “worked in” before she’s happy. We are currently in the “breaking in” stage on a new one.
     
    We’ve had many collars and these are the ones we keep going back to. I hate tags jingling for a long hike (imagine how much they must annoy the dogs with their hearing!) and any cloth/strap/rope collar has not stood the test of rolling in bbq grease and poop. This one has the extra loop at the back for another place to connect a leash and the reflector is great in the rain and the short winter days. We did try a really expensive rope collar for a bit but after standing at the sink for ages scrubbing poop off, we decided to keep this one on for any long trips. The fancy collars are wonderful but if we are going on a long backcountry trip, we’re most likely going to bring one of these.
    We love this Shampoo! It works triple duty as it repels fleas and it also smells amazing. We only ever need to give Whiskey a shower when she rolls in something extra foul so its’ great that it’s very gentle and she comes out smelling wonderful for a couple days. Since Whiskey is self-cleaning, we are still working on our first bottle.
    Whiskey’s chew treats. Antlers are always avaliable and she still has the one from when she was a puppy. Since our little girl isn’t much of a chewer compared to other dogs, she takes a very long time to wear these down and we can afford to buy Himalayan Chews. The extra large pieces will last her a month, whereas it can last other Vizslas an hour or so. Bullysticks are only used when we absolutely need her to leave us alone for 20-30mins and we only let her work through a couple inches each time. We buy Bullysticks in packs of 25 or 50 extra extra large ones.
    A really great alternative to a chuck-it ball. It’s large so you won’t lose it as easy and it floats. The string lets you throw it extra far and the texture is softer yet durable. I tend to bring several toys to the dog park in case one of her toys gets “stolen”, I can switch to a different shape while someone tracks down the “culprit”.
    A staple! I don’t use tennis balls as the material can wear down a dog’s teeth. I don’t like to play fetch too much as the back and forth isnt’ good for a dog’s joints over time but Whiskey will become obsessed with another dog’s ball so I do bring them sometimes. In the winter when it’s dark and rainy, I resort to playing fetch as the only way to get her to run instead of shivering miserably and hating me. We use a glow in the dark ball that I “charge up” at an outdoor light (hold it right next to the light for 30 seconds) and it lasts about 20 mins.
    This thing is magical. There’s something about the way it bounces, or the texture but this is Whiskey’s ultimate prize. The squeaky and the bottom section is long gone but it’s still amazing. It’s the first thing she’s ever consistently fetched with intense focus and it only comes out on special occasions or as a reward for a good search-and-find. All the dogs want it at the park. It comes in small or large (we need large).
  • Dehyrating pet treats

    Dehyrating pet treats

     

    dehydrating beef liver

    So because I’ve been taking more photos recently since joining Instagram @mywhiskeygirl, I’ve also been paying out much more treats for beautiful Whiskey poses. Whiskey (and most dogs) don’t work for free! My cat Moo, also gets treats daily for using the human toilet, and just being cute 🙂 There are cheaper treats out there (using flour or chicken meal) but of course, my pets prefer the more expensive ones which tend to be the one-ingredient dehydrated meat! It also makes me feel better knowing I don’t have to count how many I give her calorie-wise although I am much poorer for it.

    local beef liver from our raw food provider

    Eventually, I started thinking to make my own treats by purchasing a dehydrator off Amazon and asking my regular dog-meat provider for extra beef liver to make treats. I got a larger tray dehydrator because it seemed quieter and had a fan so you didn’t need to constantly rotate the trays for even drying. However, I would have liked a timer on the dehydrator so I could have it run overnight without waking up to turn it off.

    chop up liver into smaller slices

    Lay out liver on trays

    Dehydration turned out super simple, especially if your meat provider has already sliced up the meat ahead of time. Just make sure the meat is fully dried and keep them in the fridge or freezer if you are not using them immediately. I also chop them into smaller pieces to make handouts easier. Of course, you can also hydrate human food too (we’ve done beef jerky but I’ve yet to get the recipe perfect).

    Dehydrate at highest temperature until fully dry at thickest parts

    Finished treats, chop up for handouts

  • Ovary Sparing Spay

    Ovary Sparing Spay

    Whiskey hours before her spay

    We’ve just gotten back from a trip to Kelowna for Whiskey’s spay. When we first got a dog, I didn’t realize there were several different options for spays (and for neuters), each with pros and cons. As I’m typing this, Whiskey is next to me sleeping and recovering.

    fetching and swimming in Kelowna

    Just looking at a health perspective (let’s assume you aren’t leaving your dog in heat running around with intact males), there is up to a 25% chance of uterine infection with older intact females (pyometra) so if you aren’t breeding, getting a spay in North America is probably going to be considered. Here are the types of spay I was looking at:

    Ovariohysterectomy
    -traditional spay removing both the uterus and the ovaries
    -removes chance of pyometra
    -available anywhere
    –increase chance of joint disease and cancers since hormones are absent

    Ovariectomy
    -removing only the ovaries
    -removes chance of pyometra
    -typically a key hole surgery requiring a smaller incision
    -quicker surgery and potentially safer
    -less painful with a smaller cut
    -quicker recovery time
    -less vets can do this
    –increase chance of joint disease and cancers since hormones are absent

    Ovary sparing spay
    -removing only the uterus and cervix, leaving at least one ovary
    -removes chance of pyometra
    -still small chance of ovarian cancer
    -increased chance of mammary tumors over other spays
    -keeps heats but no bleeding
    -keeps all the hormones
    -difficult to find an experienced vet that does this

    one last sunset picture

    For larger breeds, because it’s healthier to keep the hormones, spays are usually delayed until the dog is “fully grown” although with an OSS, you could even do it earlier. I only really researched about spaying later because of this, and honestly I wanted to delay any kind of optional surgery as late as possible. Once I did look into it, I found the only vets near where we lived that offer this special spay were at least a 4-5 hour drive away. Poor Whiskey had no idea where we were going when we headed out on a roadtrip to Kelowna. She was so happy, hiking, exploring, and modelling the whole day before her spay.

    she’s old enough to understand the vet is no fun place!
    Whiskey’s suspicious face
    a small pre-surgery checkup
    waiting for her surgery time
    Freaking out a bit once we got her on the surgery table

    Because Whiskey had such little fat, she was more difficult to put under and struggled more than usual. Outside of that her spay went normal and we were there when she went to sleep and woke up. It was so heart-breaking to watch her struggling against the anesthesia as well as flailing around when she woke up (apparently certain breeds flail more than others). We didn’t leave her side until we drove home that evening.

    right after she finished with heating pads
    we made sure she could smell us before opening her eyes
    forcing her to lay down and not run out!
    stubbornly not laying down to recover at the office
    That evening Whiskey was feeling so poorly it was very difficult to get her to pee and poop and she was walking like a very very elderly dog with her head hanging low. It was so sad to see! The next day however she was still walking slow but she had perked up and was already giving kisses. By lunch time she would let me spoon feed her (yes, she’s a princess when she feels sad) and by the evening she was 80% back to normal. Currently I walk her on leash only with a long line and work on new tricks, training, and lots of patience!
    2 days after and healing

  • Pointing Field Tests

    Pointing Field Tests

    CKC junior field dog test

    The whole sport and world of pointing dogs, field trials, and bird hunting has confused me since I got a Vizsla. Growing up in the suburbs of Toronto with an immigrant family, we knew nothing of animals and hunting and were instead stereo-typically concentrated on good math scores and playing piano. Jump to a couple years ago when I was looking for what kind of dog I wanted, I kept realizing I was drawn to working bird dogs. I was attracted to their sleek and fast physique, their work ethic, velcro and gentle demeanor at home, and endurance to keep up on long hikes. We chose a show-dog line as we didn’t want a firecracker who needed to work everyday and Whiskey turned out to be one of the most mellow Vizslas, but then she really likes to work. We’ve been lucky enough to get Whiskey introduced to birds a year ago, but haven’t done anything since. Outside of birds I’ve been working on sniff training, and Whiskey is also very eager to fetch balls and sticks.

    Happy 2nd birthday Whiskey!
    my foray into the world of bird dogs

    So all put together, we had a very clueless human, a dog that was almost new to birds, and out of curiosity, for Whiskey’s 2nd birthday I decided to sign us up for a training day and some tests with the BCABPC (British Columbia All Breed Pointer Club). I was really nervous on our first day since we still didn’t understand what the test was, and what was involved. We arrived for the training day with about 15 other humans/dog pairs, some with more or less experience than us. During the day we worked on different stations that started from just a “stay”(or “whoa”), a “stay” with a bird, finding a bird within 5 meters of high grass, finding a trapped bird in a small field, and finding a free bird in a small field. Everyone there was so nice and helpful but there weren’t enough trainers to go around and we waited quite awhile between stations. There were several people that had travelled from quite afar (one from Calgary?) some in trailers to attend the 3 day event and title their dogs.

    working dogs staked out
    training day
    bringing the birds and bird dogs out to the field
    the first step is to stay in place on an object
    Whiskey’s classmates
    bird on a stick method (I feel bad for the birds!)
    lining up to watch and try
    really nice instructors today
    The best part was was seeing so many beautiful dogs, all very healthy of all ages. Something that was difficult was understanding these weren’t all pets for everyone, but working breeding dogs that weren’t treated as gently as I’m used to.
    meeting friends
    Lovely working dogs

    long haired weimaraner

    a gsp puppy
    a family event
    puppies play while adults work

    So this is what I found happens in field test in layman’s terms:

    • You approach the field with your dog on leash and wait until your turn and a judge comes up to you with a clipboard and will walk you to the “start”. When the judge tells you you’re starting, you unleash your dog (put the leash in your pocket) and tell your pup to start looking for birds. You cannot have anything in your hands and your starter pistol is supposed to be in a holster (oops). Your dog is supposed to run off and look in a good searching pattern until they find and point a bird. The dog is not supposed to rush the bird, pick it up, and is supposed to hold their point until you arrive. You are then to flush the bird in the air (pick it up and release it) and shoot the pistol while the bird is in the air. Ideally your dog is supposed to hold their point while you do all that (not expected in Juniors). Then you go off and find another bird and do the same. After 20-30 minutes your judge will tell you you’re finished and you put your dog back on leash.
    higher levels have two dogs running together in a test
    “planting” birds is a strange concept for me
    hitching a ride to the field tests

    Whiskey took a couple minutes each time to establish her searching pattern (all her sniff training paid off!) and over time she got into her groove. She found 2 birds on each test and pointed 3 times but almost caught one the 4th time. Her points were steady but as soon as I flushed the bird, she went after it. On the other hand, the shots didn’t seem to phase her too much (especially since this was new). At the end we got a score sheet with everything broken down but I won’t receive a copy until later. I did notice she did get perfect marks for responding to her handler (me) so yey!

    first test was in very high grass
    we were the first test of the day
    getting some feedback from my judge
    I’m terrible at flushing and shooting
    Whiskey on point
    galloping around finding birds
    I’ve never seen her run for so long
    demonstrating to the judge
    thankful to have nice judges tell me what to do!

    There are several different levels of testing and as we were brand new we did the easiest one- the JFD (junior field dog). You need 3 passed tests to acquire your title and move onto the next level. In order to properly train a dog for the higher levels, people work with their dogs several times a week and keep birds at home for that purpose. Seeing as we live downtown and have so many interests, we likely won’t take this to the next level, but if we do have an easy opportunity to find birds again I’ll take Whiskey out.

    it’s a bird dog life