The Dog Walks Me

Tag: vet

  • Vizsla Basics: 101 Guide to Everything You Need to Know

    Vizsla Basics: 101 Guide to Everything You Need to Know

    Here’s the Vizsla basics, the Vizsla FAQs, the starting block, the page that answers questions about the Hungarian Vizsla you didn’t know you would be asking

    Breed: What is a Vizsla?

    Where is a Vizsla from?

    Vizslas originated from Hungary and is their national dog. They’re from the Magyar tribes, then owned by warlords and then the aristocracy (sometimes they’re called the Magyar Vizsla). The noble dog almost went extinct after civil and world wars and were thankfully saved and are now very popular with a devoted following in both Europe and North America (as well as Australia). Vizslas are one of the best pointer-retriever dogs that need to be part of the family and does not do well living in a kennel.

    What is a Vizsla a mix of?

    Vizslas are one of the oldest breeds and have actually been used in development of other breeds. Weimaraners, German Shorthaired Pointers, and many other breeds have had the Vizsla bloodlines to thank.

    Vizslas in show

    Can you get a miniature Vizsla?

    No, Vizslas are only recognized in one size and are bred to a standard. Here’s more information about the breed standard and what ethical breeders aim for. There are variations of course, and dogs that are larger or smaller in certain litters.

    What group does Vizslas belong to?

    Vizslas are part of the Sporting Group. Sporting dogs are well rounded companions. Vizslas are extremely versatile dogs that are used for hunting, various dog sports, rescue work, detection, and therapy. They are natural pointers and retrievers.

    Vizslas are bred to hunt, point and retrieve

    Are Vizslas hypoallergenic?

    No, in short they are not but they do not shed very much and their hair does not clump up in visible balls. Overall the breed does not produce a high amount of allergens compared to other breeds but some allergic people can tolerate these dogs.

    What size is a Vizsla? How much does a Vizsla weigh?

    Here’s a detailed blogpost I wrote about the size and weight of Vizslas

    Vizslas are beautiful dogs and a medium size, the smallest of the pointers

    What is the life expectancy of a Vizsla?

    Vizslas tend to live from 12-15 years. They’re overall a healthy breed, although this will vary depending on the breeder. Please find an ethical breeder that breeds for health (both physical and mental).

    How fast is a Vizsla?

    Vizslas have been said the be the second fastest breed (to greyhounds) depending on what you read. Individuals have been clocked at 40mph/65kmph! Vizslas are even faster than other breeds over uneven ground. No matter the exact speed and how they’ve been calculated, Vizslas are extremely fast dogs and have the endurance that greyhounds do not. This makes for great difficulty and can be dangerous if you do not have the ability to recall your dog. On the other hand, they’re wonderful for active runners, bikers, and hikers.

    Do Vizslas eyes stay blue? When do Vizslas eyes turn brown?

    No, Vizsla puppies are born with blue eyes that turn green, then finally amber. The full amber coloring may come quicker at 6 months or take up to 2 years. Ask your breeder about the parents and you might have a better idea of the timing although grown does also depend on the health of the dog.

    blue-green eyes will change to amber

    Vizsla Temperament

    Where do you buy a Vizsla? How do I get a Vizsla?

    Typically there are the choices of a breeder, or a rescue. I really don’t recommend a rescue unless you have experience with dogs, especially this breed if the rescue is showing behavioral issues. I do see rare cases of young Vizslas being given up because they are too energetic or senior Vizslas because they’re just no longer wanted. Well bred Vizslas should go back to their breeders to be rehomed but it’s not always the case. If you’d like a Vizsla puppy, a breeder would be where to look and here’s more on finding a breeder.

    Alpine Vizslas where I got my puppy from

    Do Vizslas bond to one person? Do they have a favorite person?

    I don’t typically see this as the case, although if one person is the main caretaker and trainer, it would be logical for the Vizsla to bond better with that person. It’s typical of the breed, and my own dogs to love people and for them to gravitate towards people, even strangers if they seem friendly.

    Do Vizslas fetch?

    Vizslas are bred to point and retrieve although not all puppies will have a natural fetch. Some may, and others might have to be taught. Whiskey did not naturally fetch but once I taught her, she became obsessed. Bourbon will only fetch when she thinks it’s her idea to play a game inside the house.

    Will my Vizsla run away?

    What is “running away”? Like most hunting breeds, Vizslas tend to have prey drive and are interested in tracking scents. They are friendly social dogs that do like to say hi to other people and other dogs and explore their environment. As an intelligent and energetic breed, Vizslas can get bored and lonely and find their fun elsewhere. Vizslas can also fixate on prey and chase deer, birds, or other prey for long distances. Lastly Vizslas are a sensitive breed that can have anxiety or be frightened if not properly socialized to sounds or events and run off to escape, or to find their owners if separated. So, yes there reasons that a Vizsla may leave you, it is a matter of understanding why, and mitigating the issues.

    Do Vizslas whine alot?

    Vizlsas are intelligent, opinionated, sensitive, and affectionate. If they are not receiving the attention or treats, or life that they feel like they need, they will inform you so. My two girls rarely whine, we have a communication between us that is clear and does not involve whining but if I encouraged it, I’m sure there would be much whining in the house!

    What food is best for a Vizsla? What should I feed my Vizsla?

    Food is such a hot topic! There is kibble (and a HUGE variety of quality and types), canned food, home-cooked, commercial raw food, and DYI raw food. There’s also lots of options in-between. My suggestion is to ask your breeder, your vet, experienced owners with a history of healthy dogs, canine dietitians and research scientifically peer reviewed papers. Lastly, know and see what works with your dog. If the poop is mush, if the coat is dull, skin is itchy, and the energy level low, there is a problem. Don’t feed something your dog does not digest well, even if it’s the most recommended food of the month. Feed what your dog does well on, what you can afford, and you can always throw in some healthy leftovers too!

    Food is very dependent on your personal decisions

    How long until Vizslas are grown adult dogs?

    Vizslas are pretty much physically fully grown at 1.5-2 years old. However, sometimes their brains take a bit longer to catch up. Some Vizslas take longer to mentally mature than others. My eldest Vizsla was a super mature puppy that had the temperament of a senior. My youngest Vizsla Bourbon is still puppy-brained at 2.5 years old (although sometimes she seems like an adult, other times she’s full puppy).

    What’s wrong with my Vizsla?

    Is my Vizsla depressed?

    Has there been a large change in your Vizsla’s temperament? If your habits have not changed, take stock of what may have changed. Vizslas are very sensitive to emotions and their environment and can pick up on changes you may not realize. If you’re certain nothing has changed but your Vizsla is not eating, low energy, shaking, or scared, or just not loving life like before, perhaps it’s time to go to the vet.

    Vizslas are very emotive

    Why does my Vizsla grumble?

    Vizlsas are intelligent, opinionated, sensitive, and very needy. They love to communicate their needs and wants and can sometimes be considered a very “human” dog. Look into their eyes and see their expressions and tell me you cannot tell what they’re thinking! Vizslas grumble and talk to communicate with you and others.

    Why is my Vizsla shaking?

    Assuming your Vizsla is not shivering (this breed only has one coat of hair so gets cold very quickly), there can be many reasons your dog is shaking. Fear is usually the most obvious one, followed by anxiety. Sensitive individuals will shake more than others. Bourbon, my youngest shakes all the time. She shakes when she’s scared (when there’s a loud BANG), when she anticipates something bad happening (when we go to do her nails), and when there’s too much pressure put on her and she is not comfortable (at a competition or at a new equipment). Bourbon’s also noticed that when she shakes, she gets love and attention from humans, so sometimes she shakes to avoid working, to get what she wants, and to manipulate strangers into liking her and giving her attention. This last point is not very typical of the breed, but it is my experience!

    Do Vizslas bite?

    Any dog can bite if cornered and pushed to it’s limits. Vizslas are not known as an aggressive breed that have bite issues however, but any anxious fearful dog that is abused or at it’s limits without other options (like running away) may potentially bite. Poorly bred Vizslas can have aggression in their bloodlines (I’ve known of several), and Vizslas that have had trauma and have been previously attacked can also bite.

    When do Vizslas stop chewing?

    Assuming we are speaking about puppy chewing, the sharkies usually end once the adult teeth have come in. Here’s a diary of my experience.

    How do I wear out my Vizsla?

    Vizslas are one of the most energetic breeds, so hopefully you have selected this breed because you wanted the energy! There’s usually two routes to go and much in-between. There is the physical route, where you can run your Vizsla, and the mental where you can train your Vizsla. Interestingly enough, my Vizslas tired out much quicker from engaging in mental training over physical. Of course there are lots of activities that bridge both, like agility, or search and rescue, so the options really are endless. My advice is to get two things done at once. If you need to tire a Vizsla out that is in recovery or injured, do some canine conditioning with target plates or wobble boards to increase strength at the same time. If you have a young healthy Vizsla, work on recall with a long line around other dogs, or people or even birds.

  • The Best Dog Boots for Snow

    The Best Dog Boots for Snow

    Dog Winter Boots Overview (highly detailed)

    One of the questions I get the most is what dog boots I recommend for the winter. The answer is complicated. It depends on the snow you’re on, the temperature, the length of time you are outside, how deep or packed the snow is, and what type of dog you have (dewclaws? energetic? insane? eats boots?). Here’s a highly detailed answer that seeks to lay everything out to help you choose a boot.

    Should Dogs Wear Boots in the Snow?

    I do not put boots on my dogs unless they need it. Dogs do not need boots in all conditions and I do not pre-emptively put boots on unless I know they will need them. Dogs need to feel the ground underneath their paws in order to navigate their surroundings and boots will make them slip as well as impede on things like climbing stairs, and walking up rocks. Imagine trying to open a can with thick gloves on your hands and not being able to see them as you work. In general, I advise not to put on boots unless your dog shows you they need them, but to carry them with you in case they do. However, there are obvious situations you should put on boots.

    1. They are injured or healing from injury
    2. They have a history needing boots in certain situation

    How do you know your dog needs boots? Mine will stop running, will lift up their paws, and will be obviously happier with the boots on zooming again once I put them on. Over time, I know that my dogs need them at -10 or lower, and I will bring them in my pack if I think we might reach those conditions (I tend to hike up mountains, so it gets colder as we ascend). Don’t forget the windchill!

    Bodhi is more sensitive to the cold than my Vizslas

    Dewclaws/ Small paws

    One of the biggest hurdles to booties are dewclaws or if your dog has small paws (in relation to ankles) and the boots slip off easily. Even though my girls do not have these issues, this is the advice I’ve seen works. Dewclaws rub on straps, edges of boots and over time they can bleed and make boots very painful. Some boots have straps in better locations (you need to try them) but even without a strap, the inward pressure on the dewclaw and material rubbing can be painful.

    If you notice this happening, use Vet Wrap (any brand will do, same used for humans) which is a self adhesive wrap under and then over the dewclaw. Do not wrap too tightly so it cuts off circulation or too loosely that it will move. It’s to prevent the dewclaw from moving too much. Then either put the boot over it, or use a sock on top.

    Socks are another layer of protection for dewclaws, or dogs with paws that are too slim so boots slip off. Either with or without the vet wrap, slide the boot on, and secure with vet wrap or medical tape. Then slip the boots on top. You will need to experiment to see what works best for each circumstance.

    Rubber Boots

    Balloon and rubber boots have their uses but not in the backcountry. Balloons actually work well and stay on well but will not survive long on abrasive surfaces like rock. They’re better on small dogs, short works, and when salt is a problem with leashed walks around the block. They’ve been used by my friends’ Chihuahuas and Pugs, dogs that need to be carried after a certain amount of time out. The wellies are thicker and some come lined, but some dogs will not do well with the thicker sole, and the boot will not stay on an off leash dog.

    Wonton is happy with his balloons to a point, then demands to be carried.

    Sock boots

    I do not recommend these boots for any long distance off leash running or walking. They’re best for indoors (if your dog is slipping on the floors), for smaller dogs, and those that are just going outside around the block for a potty. They will slip off with movement and are not ideal for snow.

    Classic Style

    I’m just going to call this type of boot the Classic style. They tend to have a soft material on the top, and a rubber sole on the bottom with a strap around the ankle. No matter what anyone says, they are not waterproof, but they’re ok with packed snow. The ankle strap can be very difficult with dewclaws and if you don’t use a sock, they can have a hard time staying on if your dog runs around off leash. A trick is to twist the boot both ways a little bit (clockwise and anticlockwse about a quarter twist) before tightening the strap.

    The Classic style will wear longer than rubber or sock boots. You definitely see your money with the construction of the boot. Cheaper styles will have stitching that rubs against the dog’s paw making blisters. We’ve experienced blisters on the top of the boot, and the sides where the sole meets, as well as the ankle. You also see the pricing difference with the quality of the Velcro.

    The downsides to this boot is many. No matter the brand we’ve tried, my dogs will take these off if we go for hours on a backcountry hike. The snow gathers around the opening and warms up with the temperature of the dog. The snow then turns to ice and starts rubbing at the ankles. My own dogs are hairless and the boots we have tried seem to have been made for dogs with thicker ankles so the boots don’t stay on as well. The versions with thicker soles have been the most disliked because with no feeling at the paw, they cannot scramble or climb obstacles. Last, with time our boots have worn down and the materials have peeled away.

    Overall, these have their uses and I’ve used them for years. I would recommend duct taping them closed, and to a jacket if it’s possible to keep them on. They’re better for dogs that aren’t running around like crazy and I would select boots with thinner soles and a warranty.

    Ruffwear Polar Trex -Thick soles with gaiters. Good idea but Whiskey didn’t like these. She couldn’t feel the ground and the gaiters took up and kept snow inside.

    Canine Equipment Ultimate Trail Boots -4 different boots, L/R back sized smaller than front. Discontinued, longer review here. I liked these boots for the thinner soles, easy to put on straps and warranty that my friends had tried. Unfortunately some of the older boots I had purchased had started wearing on the top and the material split disintegrating to pieces. I’m still using whatever is left however.

    Hurtta Dog boots – We used these until they broke. The fabric on the middle/center of the heel wore through and made holes. Whiskey didn’t mind these and they stayed on if you pulled the strap tightly and then wove it back through the strap in the front. Otherwise they would come off. A new version is supposed to be coming soon.

    Old pair of Hurtta boots. The weak point was the velcro and where the boot joined the sole

    Musher’s

    This type of boot is what we used on mushing dogs while dogsledding in the Yukon. They’re very cheap, easy to put on and off, and are thin so the dogs can feel the ground. You won’t be too frustrated if you loose a couple of these but they won’t last as the fabric does wear out. These boots are good for packed snow on trails, nothing wet (or they will freeze), when you just want to keep the ice out. They’re also a very easy beginner boot if your dog is fussy about the thick soled ones with thick straps. I’ve been using these more with Bourbon because I can’t trust she won’t lose them but so far, I’ve been able to find the ones she’s “lost”.

    I’ve been really liking the Nonstop booties these days. The price is reasonable and they use a higher quality velcro with a bungee that makes putting the boots on easier and tighter. The boots however do let in snow over time with deep powder and then they fill up with snow and fall off. This is normally after several hours running around. The edges also do ice over like the other boots we’ve tried, and you cannot get the boot wet or it will freeze (no running through creeks).

    I’ve used the nonstop Protector Bootie as an injury bootie and I love it but it’s also not good with cold weather as it will freeze as well. It’s more protective in damper and warm conditions but I wouldn’t recommend it in the snow. With all these boots, if you can, duct tape them on!

    after 2.5 hours in the snow, you can see the ice building

    Soft Boots

    There are all higher up the leg than some of the short Classic boots. This can be better or worse for dogs with dewclaws depending on the location of the straps. It’s better for trails where the dogs need just a bit more length so snow doesn’t fill in, but can be worse if the snow does fill in and collects to make ice balls. Like all the other styles, the quality (and usually price point) does make a difference for sewing and materials used.

    The downsides to these boots are they slip down my dogs’ legs. The velcro is never going to hold through all the movement and I haven’t found one with higher quality velcro and many straps. The seams are an edge around the sides of the paw and also rub the paws over time. The snow collects around the rim and will fill into the boot and then freeze when the dog’s body warms the snow into ice. Duct tape can solve most of these issues!

    Muttluks– I like Muttluks as an emergency bootie but the straps aren’t great so I duct tape them to Bourbon’s paws. They’re also all the same size so looser fit in general.

    Voyager K9 Apparel– the highest boot and better for shorter walks, not major hiking because the fabric is not waterproof.

    Neoprene Options

    Great because snow does not stick to Neoprene and even when wet, Neoprene will hold in heat (it’s what wetsuits are made out of to keep people warm in the water). Not great because it’s very thick material and if your dog needs the feel the ground or any kind of technical surface they will probably not like it (Whiskey struggled). With dogs that do not mind a thick sole, these might be a good option.

    Neopaws – a huge variety of sizes and orthopedic options, but very thick sole

    GF Pet Elasto-fit Boots

    Gaiters

    For snow that’s a bit higher but NOT very deep snow. Gaiters will fill with deep snow if there isn’t a seal on the boots and snow will just fill in and collect with no way out (we’ve experienced this and took them off in deep snow). Otherwise it’s great because you can’t lose the boots. They’re complicated to put on, but I used them on both dogs without issues or complaints. Backcountry Paws seems to be constantly out of stock, but I would recommend them if they were possible to order. Contrary to what you might think, I would recommend them for more packed trails so snow won’t get in, or for dogs that won’t go swimming in deep snow.

    Backcountry Paws Gaiters

    Walkee Paws Leggings

    Wax

    If your dog is gathering snowballs or is picking ice off his paws, Wax is a great solution that does not involve losing boots. Trim the hair as much as you can around and under their paws, and apply Musher’s wax (in the car right before you head out). It’s easier to apply the wax when it’s not frozen, and you do not want to get wax on your car, or let your dog lick it off on the ride so just before you run is best. I apply it to my dogs just as a protective layer if I think we are close to their comfortable exposure temperature -5 to -10 in order to increase their ability to run without boots. My girls don’t ball up or collect ice with their silky hair but the wax does help protect their paws slightly.

    paw Pup Wax – use after out for a long time or exposure to salt

    Musher’s wax -works if your dog isn’t cold but gets ice balls around the long hairs between their paws (first would be to cut them shorter). They also do protect for a couple degrees difference (say if your dog needs boots at -5 degrees this might help make a 4 degree difference) and against salt but it does wear off. It it on right before you get out of the car when it’s slightly warmer as I’ve had a harder time when the wax is frozen.

  • Vizsla’s first Heat- What to Know, How to keep Camping

    Vizsla’s first Heat- What to Know, How to keep Camping

    It’s becoming more common in North America not to spay or neuter a dog until they’re “fully developed” as it’s finally being recognized that the previous recommendations to spay at 6-8 months, before a dog goes through a heat cycle, is not generally healthy. Rescues tend to spay even earlier, some as early as 8 weeks! Reasoning is that early spaying prevents unplanned mating and litters and the unwanted dogs that end up killed in shelters. While this is still an issue in some locations, it’s also quite easy to prevent unwanted pregnancy in a pet dog so I wrote this to help out owners that may be nervous about managing a dog in heat.

    Some rescues spay a puppy this young

    So why wait?

    Waiting until the dog reaches puberty is now generally recommended so the dogs can naturally develop with hormones from their sex organs. This is proven to reduce cancers, orthopedic issues, behavior issues, urinary incontinence, however increases the chance of mammary tumors and cancers, as well as testicular cancer (just the same as removing the breasts will remove the chance of breast cancer). A study with Vizslas in particular show that neutered dogs (between 6 and 12 months) had significant higher chances of mast cell cancer, lymphoma, all other cancers, fear of storms, and those before 6 months had increased chances of a behavioral disorder.

    Life continues with a diaper

    I chose to wait with Whiskey and paid for an OSS spay (more about that here) that keeps an ovary so she still has her heat without bleeding. Whiskey went through several heats before her surgery. With Bourbon, the advice from my vet now is not to undergo an unnecessary surgery if possible so we will wait until there is a reason to.

    Owning an intact dog is definitely more hassle and work. Not only do you need to keep a close eye on a female in heat, but you need to deal with bleeding, a potential change in personality, and it can be extra challenging around other dogs. At first I was quite overwhelmed with the process, but after a heat I didn’t find it difficult to deal with.

    Bourbon hiking and adventuring during her first heat

    A Vizsla’s heat cycle

    A female Vizsla’s first heat can be anywhere from 8 months to 1.5 years old but typically 10 months to 1 year (this changes in breeds, typically depending on weight/size). After the first heat, their heat cycle is usually between every 6 months to a year. Whiskey had her first heat just after she turned 1 year old, and Bourbon just before her birthday. I believe Bourbon was first out of her sisters. Bourbon’s heat cycle is every 6 months, just like her mother, and Whiskey is once a year. It takes a couple years for their cycles to regulate so be patient. The first heat is NOT usually typical of the rest of them. Ask your breeder about your dog’s mother’s heat and you might get a hint of what may happen!

    Signs before

    With Whiskey I had lots of signs before her first heat (about 2-3 weeks notice), with Bourbon there was none and it’s always been a surprise. Whiskey is more in tuned with her emotions and body, while Bourbon is a little bit of a jackrabbit with a small attention span and is harder to read.

    Whiskey’s signs at the beginning of her heat (before bleeding)

    • Less appetite, skipping meals
    • More socializing, interest in saying hi to dogs (both female and male)
    • Dogs are more interested in sniffing
    • Swelling of vulva
    • licking her genitals
    • marking (pee marking everywhere)
    • discharge

    Bourbon’s signs

    • Nothing, then SURPRISE

    Other signs your dogs might have

    • Change in behavior (clingy, sleepy, personality change)
    • Aggression to male dogs

    Changes during a dog’s heat

    I never noticed a behavioral change in either of my girls although it’s been regularly reported that Vizslas in particular will get VERY extra Velcro and needy. They can be uncomfortable, moody, basically just like human females and need extra emotional support. The big difference I’ve noticed is that my girls are very social especially with good looking males! Whiskey is a gigantic flirt, however it’s not with every male. She is particular with her ‘type’ and will be very upset at unwanted advances from the ‘wrong’ dog.

    Whiskey will ask to go outside to mark and look for males during her heat, and will wander further and approach dogs (she normally never approaches dogs) and show them her rear. It’s very common for dogs to be more tired and uncomfortable but I haven’t noticed that with either of my girls. We continue our regular hikes and walks (just further away from others) and I do not notice a change in energy although it’s very common.

    Dog diapers

    Bleeding and diapers

    Bleeding is possibly the largest annoyance you’ll have to deal with, unless you own a male unfixed dog. Depending on your living conditions, you could just lay out blankets in a crate or bed and change those frequently. Vizslas keep themselves very clean and you might be surprised how little you have to clean! I’ve also heard it can be more comfortable to air out and not wear a diaper all day long if it’s not needed.

    On the other hand, diapers are very handy if you do not have a large uncarpeted area for your dog, or you are sleeping together in a car or tent (camping is extra awkward!). My girls will bleed for about 3 weeks, the last week turning less bloody and more clear. This last week when the blood stops, is actually the most fertile point and you need to be extra cautious of meeting males. You’ll also notice your girl ‘flagging’ with her tail to the side when she meets other dogs (or smells them). Keep your dog supervised the entire heat, but keep an even more close watch (and tighter leash) during the stage when they flag because this is when they may escape and when they are most fertile.

    The pink is Seasonals Diaper, the other is Amazon brand Teamoy lined diapers both Medium

    We’ve tried 3 types of diapers. The first were home-made, just an old pair of panties tied tight with a hole for her tail and a panty liner. This…was a bit of a mess and Whiskey could escape from them easily. The second was a store-bought one and I put liners in (brand was Seasonals), and the third, my favorite is a washable one with built in liners (see photos).

    Because our dogs have such a skinny stomach and slim buttocks, you may need to size down if the diapers go by weight of dog. I ended up sewing extra velcro onto the diapers because Whiskey was so skinny. The important thing to remember is to take the diapers off before they go outside otherwise they’ll pee in it. This isn’t too hard to remember but can be quite the game when you’re camping and your dog jumps in and out of the tent all night long.

    Camping with your dog in heat

    Because we camp in an area with bears, cougars, and coyotes, blood needs to be contained and sealed off. I take freezer ziplock bags to put used liners in, and then put the ziplock bags into drybags and everything is stored with our food and garbage overnight (100m+ away hung on a tree or in a buried bear bag). I will also bring dog wipes to deal with cleaning, extra water, and lots of panty liners. Even if the diapers have built in liners, it’s more efficient to bring liners than 4 pairs of diapers if you need to carry in and out. Bourbon sleeps inside my sleeping bag the diaper needs to fit very well! I’ve done 3 camping trips with Bourbon in heat, in 3 different tents without issue.

    Males and interactions with dogs

    During the heat, both females and males will be very interested in sniffing my dogs. I normally walk in quieter locations but during heat, will flat out avoid certain places that may have more dogs. I will always ask (if I cannot see) if a dog is female or male, fixed or intact before they meet. Whiskey can be very aggressive in flirting with a dog so if the dog is small, or shy, or finds her advances unwanted, we stay away and are leashed.

    Whiskey will flirt with all dogs, female or male, and even old seniors so I really need to control her around others! Bourbon’s still very new and is not spayed (Whiskey has her OSS spay) so I do not entirely know her personality during her heat around other dogs. Her first heat she showed no interest in males she met (very few, none intact) but her second heat she was singing to the boys (she stayed at her breeder with intact males). No matter what, keep your dog under control and supervise them even in a fenced yard (dogs can mate between fences).

    Bourbon in heat hanging out with her sister River

    The easiest thing if you have an unfixed male living with you, is to see if someone can take your male for a couple weeks. If not, separate them in different rooms or crate one at a time. If there are several males in a household, they can lose their appetite and fight amongst each other so you might need to separate the males from each other too. It goes to say, do not let your female in the yard unattended, do not let your males out together unattended.

    My experience with my girls in heat

    When I lived in the city, I would drive 45mins away for off leash walks on extremely quiet trails and wake up earlier for city walks. I don’t mind letting Whiskey say hi to other dogs on leash that are fixed, but under no circumstances do we allow humping (from any dog, regardless of sex or neutering). Even though Whiskey is spayed, she can still tie and that can be traumatic and physically painful for her. We once stayed at an Airbnb cabin out of town while Whiskey was in heat and literally had the “boys” come to the yard and wait for her to come out.

    Overall it’s not been too much work outside of managing diapers as the dogs run in and out of the house, car, tent, etc. Most of my friends have fixed males that do not have any interest in my girls in heat, and we do not meet too many dogs on a daily basis. I work from home now and no longer need daycare or a dog walker that insists on a spayed female (this can depend on cities and what is the norm). Some of my friends have Vizslas that have a hard time and are quite depressed or mopey but my girls seem unfazed so far (Bourbon hasn’t had enough heats for me to be sure). Whiskey has great recall even in heat, is spayed, so she’s off leash in most cases, but Bourbon has a very long range so she needs special care, more on-leash time, and remote walks.

  • What you need in a Hiking Dog’s First Aid Kit

    What you need in a Hiking Dog’s First Aid Kit

    Already have a human first aid kit for hiking and camping? Wondering what ELSE you might need for your dog? There’s no need to double up commercial first-aid kits for you and your pup as most elements can be shared but there are some extras to bring and take into consideration. The dog-specific pieces can also be shared with humans and you might find them quite useful!

    Listed in detail below, some items that are good to have at home, in the car, on the trail

    Whiskey and I have been hiking since she was a puppy and with the addition of Bourbon, we’ve had to deal with lots of minor issues while in the backcountry and on roadtrips without reception or vets nearby. Even at home, we’re able to deal with minor emergencies without having to pay for a vet visit.

    When I’m hiking I always have a small first-aid kit and I add extra pieces depending on the length of the hike and the risk factors as well as the size of the pack I’ll be taking. I’ve never seen most of these products listed in ready-made canine first-aid kits that you can purchase so I thought this list might be good for people that are active and in the wilderness with their dogs.

    Consider where you are going, the environment and temperature, as well as any medical issues your own dog might have. Always bring extra clothing for warmth, and shade. And let me know in comments on anything I may have missed!

    Trail Dog First Aid Checklist

    Items in your Human First-Aid Kit should have that can be shared with your Pet

    • Gauze
    • Adhesive tape
    • Swabs
    • Ice Pack
    • Scissors/ knife
    • Gloves
    • Bandages
    • Alcohol wipes
    • Saline
    • Tweezers
    • Headlamp/flashlight
    • Splint
    • Eye wash- non medicated eyewash can be used on dogs
    • Polysporin/ antibiotic ointment
    • All-purpose skin soother -Skincare for sunburns, rashes, chapped lips, bug bites, and healing cuts and scrapes
    • water-proof bag
    • towel
    This is minimum what I carry in my daypack
    This all fits into a small bag in previous photo called “first aid kit”

    Trail Specific First Aid Kit Items

    • Blister Packs
    • Zip Ties
    • Lighter
    • Water Purification Tablets
    • Emergency Blanket
    • Electrolyes
    • Multi-use tool/ Swiss Army Knife

    Trail Dog First Aid Kit additions

    • Benedryl (Diphenhydramine), Reactine (Cetirizine)– Pills are the most used item in my first-aid (human or dog). These I use for any allergic reaction including bug bites
    • Tick remover– if you have a chance of ticks in the area, clearly also for humans
    • Tweezers– very useful with the tick remover but also splinters, cactus spines, shards of things that get imbeded
    • Pup Wax -nose and paw wax balm for dogs, I use this nightly when hiking on boulder fields and the paws are about to be cracked (or are already cracked) to keep them moisturized as well as dry noses
    • Dr Dobias Skin Spray– Wonderful for skin scrapes and closed wounds as well as insect bites. Also great on humans
    • EMT Gel– Fantastic for paw cracks and tears in the skin. I was able to stave off Bourbon’s paw fully cracking with this gel, pupwax, wrapping and a bootie while hiking for 8 days in a row.
    • Duct Tape– as much as the adhesive tape in a regular first-aid kit might help humans, I’ve found Duct Tape is very helpful for dog patients. It’s also wonderful for fixing gear that breaks and holding boots in place for crazy running Vizslas.
    • Superglue– or stapler but superglue is much smaller to carry on treks out (many of my friends will carry a stapler to staple wounds)
    • Dog-friendly bug/tick spray– I’m still working on finding the magical dog-friendly bug spray but I’ve used Cedarwood-based, citronella based, and I would like to try PERMETHRIN next. Regardless, throw a pet-friendly spray in
    • Emergency Bootie– slightly larger size than usual, universal boot (not left/right) to accommodate bandages underneath if needed. I use muttlucks and duct tape this one when needed.
    • Hydrogen Peroxide– to in duce vomiting immediately after ingesting a non-corrosive poison (do not induce vomiting if you think it might be corrosive), commonly while hiking, if your dog eats mushrooms, or human feces that may be laced with drugs, anything that may have drugs (including edibles), poisoned meat, etc
    • Activated Charcoal+ powdered milk– if your dog has eaten something and is reacting (you did not induce vomiting in time) already reacting to the effects. I add the milk to make it more palatable and it also coats the stomach to prevent absorption while the charcoal works to bind the poison. Mix with water into a paste with a syringe pump or bowl if your dog will eat it.
    • Vet Wrap– Extremely useful for paw injuries, holding bandages in place, or sprains. I use it for myself when I consistently sprain my ankle. Sticks to itself and is non-adhesive to anything else. Also useful for boots and harnesses that rub.
    • Gravol/Famotidine– Whiskey has a sensitive stomach so this is more Whiskey-specific. When her stomach is very gurgling and she’s not wanting to eat, I give her Famotidine and it settles. Whatever drugs your dog may need, of course, bring some in your first aid kit
    • Emergency leash/ Rope + carabiner– leashes and collars break or get lost, an extra rope can really help, be made into a quick harness, or help muzzle a dog in pain.
    • Dog sling/bag/ability to carry out an injured pet– depending on the size of your dog, whom with, and where you are going, make sure you have the ability to carry your dog out
    • Bandana or cloth– you may need to drench a piece of cloth in water to cool a dog down, and emergency it can be very helpful to cover your dog’s eyes, or muzzle your dog while working on an injury, especially if you are alone

    DO NOT SHARE

    Be cautious of these items and research ahead of time if the ones in your kit are dog-friendly or not

    medications– some medications can be shared with your dog, and some not. Make sure you have an understanding of the dosage and which are poisonous, this includes medicated eyedrops
    creams/oils– some ingredients that can be used for humans like certain essential oils can be dangerous for dogs
    bug spray– DEET is poisonous to dogs, even while spraying, make sure your dog is upwind
    sun screen– Many types of sunscreen are potentially toxic if if a dog licks it off

    Keep your puppies safe!

    [wps_products product_id=”7342189740231″]

  • Preventative Joint Supplements for an Aging Active Dog

    Preventative Joint Supplements for an Aging Active Dog

    My aging beauty 8 years old and sugar-faced with a flower crown

    Whiskey just turned 8 and the reality of an older dog is hitting hard. Although we are still doing all the long distance multi-day hiking, the trail runs, and offleash walks at least twice a day, Whiskey’s slowing down and I know she’s getting achy just like me. Sometimes we hike over 12 hours a day, half on scree and boulder fields, scrambling 2000m+ (7000 ft) vertically up and down mountains. The longest hike we did last year was 8 days in a row and Whiskey did every single one of the extra side-trips and peaks.

    Just last year I started researching what supplements might be good for joints as a preventative to keep Whiskey oiled and feeling good over long days. Although I have very little knowledge compared to vets or specialists, I’d like to share what we’re using since so many ask. Keep in mind, Whiskey has no current issues and everything is used as a preventative. I also feed my dogs raw at home (other things while we travel), and take a balanced approach to their health (between traditional and holistic). I also do not make money off any links (feel free to buy me a coffee or shop in my store if you want to support me)

    Omega-3s Fish Oil– There’s a huge list of studied benefits of Omega-3 fatty acids for humans and the same holds true for puppies and dogs. It can be used as treatment for arthritis and kidney disease in older dogs and is great for skin, coat, nervous system and joints. I use squid oil to avoid mercury.

    Glucosamine– One of the most used ingredients for join supplements. Similar to humans, glucosamine helps keep our cartilage healthy but as we age, the body makes less which can lead to joint breakdown and inflammation. Daily supplements usually made of shellfish can relieve pain and help inflammation.

    Chondroitin Sulfate-Chondroitin helps mobility and flexibility and prevents the break down of cartilage. It works well combined with Glucosamine to help joints, and even stimulate repair mechanisms.

    MSM– is a natural chemical in dogs and humans (and other living things) and is used to treat arthritis. Like Glucosamine and Chondroitin, it can be used to support connective tissue and has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.

    Turmeric– The active ingredient in Turmeric is curcumin that has been studied to be an effective anti inflammatory without the side effects of traditional drugs. I use Turmeric after we’ve had a big day, and tend to carry it on hiking road-trips.

    CBD– CBD interacts with the endocannabinoid system to block pain signals and reduce joint inflammation. I’ve only used this as a treatment, not preventative but I thought to put this on the list. Make sure any CBD oil you buy is specifically for dogs so there is no trace of THC in it. Not all CBD products are made the same, and my own vet suggests that good quality oil is the most effective way to go.

    Egg shell membrane– My physiotherapist suggested I take NEM (Natural Eggshell Membrane) for my own knee issues so naturally, I looked into it for Whiskey. Since we eat eggs all the time, I just feed the membrane to her since it’s a “free” supplement. Egg shell membrane contains proteins such as collagen, but also chondroitin sulfate, and glucosamine so it’s basically an amazing addition to everything else I’m feeding. The easiest way to break the membrane from the egg (if your dog doesn’t eat eggshells) is to crack a bit of the shell at the top, and then use that crack to peel the membrane off.

    The last year Whiskey will be carrying a load

    Products we use/have used

    Some people start their dogs on joint supplements after 3 years old, some only when they see problems like stiff joints or limping after a big day. How much, how soon, you use these depend on your dog, your breed, financial ability and comfort. The availability of specific brands will depend on where you live and the quality of the brand is quite important so dig in a little and ask vets if they do NOT recommend a brand, or sport dog trainers that have tried several local options and can compare. Lastly keep in mind food allergies (specifically shellfish and beef) when choosing supplements.

    Nutramax Cosequin- It’s affordable (I buy this at Costco) and includes all the basics (glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate, MSM). Whiskey gets this daily

    Green-Lipped Mussels– These mussels are from New Zealand and are super tasty with fries, but also are join supplements with omega-3s, chondroitin and glycosaminoglycans. I buy a powder form and add it with Whiskey’s regular supplements on top of her raw food in the mornings.

    FeelGood Omega-3 – I trust this brand of supplements (I use others for both Whiskey and Bourbon) to have carefully researched ingredients for my dogs. I used to use salmon oil but then realized it wasn’t sustainable and higher levels of mercury. Calamari populations are increasing vs krill and fish. Both dogs get this daily!

    CBD– I honestly cannot remember the brand we used but it was recommended by my vet. There seems to be quite a difference in quality of the oils so definitely do your research and not just go with the cheapest one.

    Recovery– I’ve used this when Whiskey’s had a limp and it’s been recommended by most active senior dog owners I’ve met. I would use this as a treatment, not preventative. It includes MSM and glucosamine hydrochloride as the top ingredients.

    Pup Snax™ Daily Immune Plus Probiotic – I recently discovered this from Puppington and it works well as a daily chew for everything. It has Glucosamine, Chondroitin, Wild Alaskan Salmon Oil, Turmeric, and then a probiotic blend on top.

  • Why a Vizsla is the Wrong Dog Breed for You

    Why a Vizsla is the Wrong Dog Breed for You

    Vizsla’s aren’t the sort of dog that’s good for everyone, they aren’t the “best” family dog, nor the dog that fits into every situation. Contrary to my entire website and life, I find myself discouraging many people I talk to in the dog park from getting a Vizsla “because they’re so pretty what’s the breed?”. It’s totally false advertising when they see a calm Vizsla heeling at my side downtown, ignoring other dogs and squirrels and posing for the camera. I just happen to have an oddity, that I poured hundreds of hours into training, and that has been out hiking 4 times already this week. Bourbon’s a better example…except she’s either not visible on trails because she’s elsewhere, or she’s wrapping herself around the legs of a stranger all cute and noodley. They don’t see all the time, energy and money spent!

    Very pretty dogs, can work against them if they bought just for looks

    The Good Stuff

    The problem with Vizslas, is that upon appearance (if they are standing still enough to see, or by photographs on the internet) they look amazing. They’re gorgeous, short haired, don’t smell much, look sweet tempered, and a very reasonable size. A quick Google search will tell you Vizslas are gentle natured, loyal, friendly, versatile, and eager to please. So what’s not to like? Why are Vizslas not the next Labs or Golden Retrievers fit for any family?

    The (potentially) Bad Stuff

    Breeders get hundreds of emails a week during Covid…so it will be very hard to find a good one

    It’s hard to even buy a good one

    First off, Vizslas are prone to Epileptic seizures, skin allergies, cancers, and other disorders. It’s not more than the typical breed, but if you don’t find a reputable breeder that screens for these issues, you could have a sick dog. Finding breeders and getting a puppy (especially in less than 2 years) is extremely difficult and most people do not want to wait this long, or do so much homework, send so many emails and phone calls just to buy a dog. Going the less reputable direction can buy you a dog with a huge variety of issues that are screened by ethical breeders. I’ve seen this happen time and time again, and it’s so sad to see an early death, sick puppy, and dangerous behavioural issues.

    Goodbye Bourbon! After 8 days of continuous backcountry hiking, she was good to keep going!

    The energy level is not ideal for most

    Most people’s life does not allow for 2 hour walks outside, hunting, running their dog in an agility ring, or spending so much time centered around their dog. Between a job, kids, social engagements, travel, there are few people that would be ok walking their dog for hours outside, even when it’s raining, even in the winter, even after work in the dark. Vizslas are high energy dogs that love to use their brains, learn new things, and are extremely versatile in work they can do. The key is WORK. They love having a job, pleasing their human, and doing well at their jobs. It’s like the A+ student at the front of the class, hands up to answer every question, on speed. These dogs want to run, sniff, do things or they can be destructive when bored. They’re not ideal if you like a calm household, expect order, and your children aren’t the rough and tumble sort.

    Bird dogs want to hunt for birds and will hunt regardless of your own preferences
    Bourbon can become deaf if she’s chasing birds. She’ll run for hours until you can catch her!

    A hunting dog wants to hunt

    If you’re a hunter, wonderful! But if you don’t hunt and you get a hunting dog, please expect your dog to want to hunt things. If you’re not interested in a dog that sniffs out dead animals, stalks pigeons, and shakes with excitement at every squirrel in the park, then this can get frustrating. They’re bred to respond to hunt and find prey so this might not be ideal for lots of people. The ability can be aimed at work (sniff work for example) or you might take your dog out to hunt tests, but if you’d like your dog to walk on leash calmly on a hiking trail near a bird sanctuary…you have hundreds of hours of training to do.

    Vizslas love sitting on their humans, being with their humans and touching them

    Velcro is not an exaggeration- Separation anxiety

    Vizslas are known as Velcro dogs and although many of my own friends are dog lovers, they don’t really want a dog glued to them at all times. Some like to go to the bathroom alone, take a shower without someone checking up on them, and some others would like to work without a dog in their chair. It’s very typical for Vizslas to wake themselves up and follow you from room to room just be close to you. If “personal space” is something you treasure…this is not the right breed!

    To further the point, this breed needs humans to be close and if you’re not around much, can develop separation anxiety. They’re not an independent breed that will be fine without you. Leave a Vizsla outside in a backyard and you’ll see them staring at you on the other side of the glass door wanting you to be out there with them. A backyard will do you no good unless you’re having fun with them outside.

    Bourbon in no less than 3 layers for a 6 hour hike in the cold. I had to carry extra layers in case

    Short-haired and Climate

    Vizslas have very short hair and only one coat so if your climate is colder, the breed may not be ideal. These are indoor dogs, not outdoors and cannot survive in low temperatures like double-coated dogs. I constantly need to bring jackets, boots, and more if we are going for long 5+ hour adventures in weather that may not be ideal. They can hate the rain, and shiver miserably, and can have a hard time retrieving in icy cold waters, especially for a length of time.

    Boots and jackets are not needed for huskies in conditions like these

    Time and Energy needed

    More than most breeds, Vizslas are a bit like tiny humans in that they take TIME and ENERGY. They’ll give you back so much love, but you need to put in the time and energy first. They demand it, and you will see this under no uncertain terms. They’re very needy dogs, with lots of feelings and emotions and love to hear your voice. They love to be pampered with blankets and pillows and attention. Whiskey will interrupt me at work, insistently asking for me to just stare into her eyes and love on her. Bourbon will sit and whine until I tend to her emotional needs.

    Sensitive to a fault

    Have you ever met anyone that seemed to take things you said the wrong way? Maybe your tone of voice or wording and they were instantly hurt? There are some dogs that people can yell at and train pretty harshly without too much trauma but Vizslas can shut down quickly. Bourbon is quick to frighten and remembers every tiny thing forever. I’ve seen so many Vizslas scream and shake and cower after receiving a bump or nip from another dog where most dogs might recover in a couple seconds. I’ve had Vizslas limp over to me, totally distressed with a hanging paw and I’ve had to ‘pretend’ to look them over, kiss their limp paw and tell them they’re ok. And then off they run full speed and ‘recovered’.

    The sensitivity can also show up in food sensitivities or drama when not feeling well. Whiskey was SUCH a picky eater with tummy problems when she was younger. When she got giardia (diarrhea and vomiting) and I brought her to the vet and because she was being so dramatic the vet thought she was much worse than she actually was. Her heartbeat was too slow, she was shaking (emotional) and hiding underneath my chair in a ball. There’s alot of managing emotions that might not be as big an issue with other dogs.

    Stamina and speed

    Vizslas were bred to run fast, and run long. They can keep up with horseback and go all day. Perhaps you don’t want a dog that recovers from a 25km run in a couple hours, or a puppy that just *never* goes to sleep. There were so many times I would drive out 2 hours for a hike, hike 6 hours, and drive back. By the time I got home, Whiskey was ready to go again, and I still hadn’t unpacked my hiking bag! Stamina is amazing, but it might not be what you want in a dog. These are the dogs you bring to a dog park and they run one dog after another until the entire park is exhausted and lying down…except your Vizsla is now ready for a one hour game of fetch.

  • Solutions to cold dog paws in the Winter

    Solutions to cold dog paws in the Winter

    Dog Winter Boots Reviews and options(updated)

    I’ve been using and trying boots on our girls for years and wanted to share an updated revision of my last review here. Many of the older boots are no longer in production but you can still get them used and there are very similar copies out there with the same benefits and issues. I’ve grouped the boots into categories that I’ve made notes on. Please let me know what you think! These are based soley on my opinion and nothing more. My girls do not have dewclaws, and are short-haired Vizslas.

    Dewclaws/ Small paws

    One of the biggest hurdles to booties are dewclaws or if your dog has small paws (in relation to ankles) and the boots slip off easily. Even though my girls do not have these issues, this is the advice I’ve seen works. Dewclaws rub on straps, edges of boots and over time they can bleed and make boots very painful. Some boots have straps in better locations (you need to try them) but even without a strap, the inward pressure on the dewclaw and material rubbing can be painful.

    If you notice this happening, use Vet Wrap (any brand will do, same used for humans) which is a self adhesive wrap under and then over the dewclaw. Do not wrap too tightly so it cuts off circulation or too loosely that it will move. It’s to prevent the dewclaw from moving too much. Then either put the boot over it, or use a sock on top.

    Socks are another layer of protection for dewclaws, or dogs with paws that are too slim so boots slip off. Either with or without the vet wrap, slide the boot on, and secure with vet wrap or medical tape. Then slip the boots on top. You will need to experiment to see what works best for each circumstance.

    Classic

    These boots are the classic ones I see. They tend to have a soft material on the top, and a rubber sole on the bottom with a strap around the ankle. No matter what anyone says, they are not waterproof, but they’re ok with packed wetter snow. The ankle strap can be very difficult with dewclaws and if you don’t use a sock, they can have a hard time staying on if your dog runs around off leash. A trick is to twist the boot both ways a little bit (clockwise and anticlockwse about a quarter twist) before tightening the strap.

    Ruffwear Polar Trex -Thick soles with gaiters. Good idea but Whiskey didn’t like these. She couldn’t feel the ground and the gaiters took up and kept snow inside.

    Canine Equipment Ultimate Trail Boots -4 different boots, L/R back sized smaller than front. Discontinued, longer review here. I liked these boots for the thinner soles, easy to put on straps and warranty that my friends had tried. Unfortunately some of the older boots I had purchased had started wearing on the top and the material split disintegrating to pieces. I’m still using whatever is left however.

    Hurtta Dog boots – We used these until they broke. The fabric on the middle/center of the heel wore through and made holes. Whiskey didn’t mind these and they stayed on if you pulled the strap tightly and then wove it back through the strap in the front. Otherwise they would come off. A new version is supposed to be coming soon.

    Expawlorer Amazon dog boots -All these Amazon boots look like they’re made in the same factory with different names. They seem decent for the low price, ok for dogs without dewclaws walking on leash in packed snow or the city. Depending on your dog’s paws they may stay on for play, or they may not!

    EXY&G Amazon Dog Boots

    QUMY Amazon Dog Boots

    XSY&G Dog Boots

    Old pair of Hurtta boots. The weak point was the velcro and where the boot joined the sole

    Musher’s

    This type of boot is what we used on mushing dogs while dogsledding in the Yukon a decade ago. They’re very cheap, easy to put on and off, and are thin so the dogs can feel the ground. You won’t be too frustrated if you loose a couple of these but they won’t last as the fabric does wear out. These boots are good for packed snow on trails, nothing wet (or they will freeze), when you just want to keep the ice out. They’re also a very easy beginner boot if your dog is fussy about the thick soled ones with thick straps

    Dog Booties -the simpliest version.

    after 2.5 hours in the snow, you can see the ice building

    Non-stop Dog Wear -my current favorite for cross country skiing. Even in -20 degrees on a packed trail my girls have not complained and are happy to run. They will not protect as much from direct cold as a thicker sole and does collect ice around the ankles after a couple hours.

    Higher boots

    There are all higher up the leg than some of the short boots. This can be better or worse for dogs with dewclaws depending on the location of the straps. It’s better for trails where the dogs need just a bit more length so snow doesn’t fill in, but can be worse if the snow does fill in and collects to make ice balls.

    Muttluks– I like Muttluks as an emergency bootie but the straps aren’t great so I duct tape them to Bourbon’s paws. They’re also all the same size so looser fit.

    Voyager K9 Apparel– the highest boot and better for shorter walks, not major hiking

    Canada Pooch

    Neoprene Options

    Great because snow does not stick to Neoprene and even when wet, Neoprene will hold in heat (it’s what wetsuits are made out of to keep people warm in the water). Not great because it’s very thick material and if your dog needs the feel the ground or any kind of technical surface they will probably not like it (Whiskey struggled).

    Neopaws – a huge variety of sizes and orthopedic options, but very thick sole

    GF Pet Elasto-fit Boots

    Gaiters

    For snow that’s a bit higher but NOT deep snow. Gaiters will fill with deep snow if there isn’t a seal on the boots and snow will just fill in and collect with no way out (we’ve experienced this and took them off in deep snow). Otherwise it’s great because you can’t lose the boots. They’re complicated to put on, but I used them on both dogs without issues or complaints. Backcountry Paws seems to be constantly out of stock, but I would recommend them if they were possible to order. Contrary to what you might think, I would recommend them for more packed trails so snow won’t get in, or for dogs that won’t go swimming in deep snow.

    Backcountry Paws Gaiters

    Walkee Paws Leggings

    Others

    Here’s some other options.

    Dog Mocs

    paw Pup Wax – use after out for a long time or exposure to salt

    Musher’s wax -works if your dog isn’t cold but gets ice balls around the long hairs between their paws (first would be to cut them shorter). They also do protect for a couple degrees difference (say if your dog needs boots at -5 degrees this might help make a 4 degree difference) and against salt but it does wear off. It it on right before you get out of the car when it’s slightly warmer as I’ve had a harder time when the wax is frozen.

  • Raw Dog Feeding- Affordable, Details, our Vancouver sources, and supplements

    Raw Dog Feeding- Affordable, Details, our Vancouver sources, and supplements

    1. Whiskey
    2. Bourbon
    3. Feeding details
    4. Proteins
    5. Extras
    6. Supplements
    7. Meal Bones
    8. Sample Meal
    9. Travel and Training
    10. Amount
    11. Benefits and Downsides
    12. Risks
    13. Switching
    14. Digestive Issues
    15. Sources

    Whiskey’s tummy

    When I first brought Whiskey home, she was eating kibble and for some reason, kibble just didn’t really make “sense” to me. I avoid highly processed food in general because it just doesn’t make me feel so good, and I wanted to feed Whiskey something I understood and felt good about. To me, food should look like food, and I started cooking for her and trying different menu options. I wasn’t against kibble sometimes, but I just felt that since I wouldn’t like to eat nutrition bars all my life (but hey once in awhile is fine), I wanted to try and feed more fresh foods to my growing puppy.

    After a couple weeks it just became very time consuming and I was getting anxious about balancing all the required nutrients. It’s very hard to know how much calcium you’re feeding for example, and although Whiskey LOVED the cooked meals, it just wasn’t a practical long term solution. At that point she ate more food than I did, and I was making a huge batch of slow-cooked food every other day and grocery shopping just took too much money and time.

    Raw meat mix with leftover veges I had in the fridge

    Soon after I shifted her onto raw food, but it took me 1 year to figure out what Whiskey did best on, and where best to buy from. Whiskey was very picky with food, and she had multiple issues with Guardia and diarrhea, vomiting, and other illnesses in the beginning so it took awhile to find our rhythm. In the end, I found out that Whiskey likes semi-frozen meals, and doesn’t like chicken, gamey bird meats (like Quail and duck), but is ok with Turkey. When I say she doesn’t “like”, she’s not intolerant, she just refuses to eat it, and will pick at her food for weeks if I try to out-stubborn her and would get way too skinny. Whiskey seems to do well on lean meats like Turkey, Lamb, Pork, and Elk (we had a scare where we thought she might have had Pancreatitis), and is very sensitive to greasy foods (much more sensitive than Bourbon for example). Every dog is different and it’s really good to find out what works for your dog (like people!).

    Nutrience pre-mix with raw elk, canned pumpkin leftover rice, and raw egg

    Bourbon’s appetite

    Bourbon also came kibble-fed and I was able to switch her over to raw within one meal several days after she settled into our home. She had no tummy problems and eats really well. Bourbon eats meats well but is oddly picky with new foods like vegetables and fruits. While Whiskey will beg for orange slices and strawberries, Bourbon won’t touch them. Each dog is different! Bourbon’s done well with every protein we’ve thrown at her. The only thing I have to keep in mind is to slowly increase her large “bone meals” (meaty bones as a meal) or she’ll be overwhelmed with a bone too large! Bourbon loves fish, even whole fish, while Whiskey will only eat small chopped up fish.

    What a typical block of frozen dog meat looks like. 10% bone, 5% liver, 5% kidney/spleen 80% muscle meat

    Vet opposition

    Most traditional vets are opposed to the raw diet for a variety of reasons. Most studies about dog food are done and funded by large dog food companies and there is very little financial incentive to study the benefits to raw so first off there’s little evidence to back raw food as being an healthier alternative. Raw food manufacturers are new and small (and tend to be local because raw is harder to ship) and don’t have the resources to fund these studies.

    Also because raw diets vary so much, vets can be scared of the possibility of nutritional imbalances. There are definitely some people that aren’t going to do the research or even know that this is something you need to do. If you feed only hamburger meat and eggshells, your dog is going to be sick, so you’ll need to do a minimal amount of research or purchase a pre-mixed raw. At the least a dog needs muscle meat, organ (lots of minerals and vitamins in organs), and bone. Last, the risk of meat-borne bacteria. While there is always a risk of handing raw meat, it’s not more so than any meat that you eat (we buy all human grade meat for our dogs). Vets don’t want to take on the extra liability if they recommend a raw diet.

    We’ve worked with vets that oppose or support our raw feeding but once they see how healthy our dogs are, their teeth, coat, and demeanor, I haven’t been given too much grief. I’ve found over time they’re more supportive or at least there’s less opposition.

    Daily feeding raw, the details

    Semi-frozen seems like the best texture for most dogs. Some will eat fully frozen, and most that I know aren’t crazy about fully defrost soft mushy raw blend. For meaty bones, Whiskey didn’t’ want to work for her meal, so I would sear the sides of the turkey neck or lamb neck to get her “into it”. I also taught the dogs to eat on a mat for easy indoor cleanup. I feed my cat the same meat as my dogs, I just add extra taurine into the food for her (in the form of hearts).

    Everyday I defrost the next day’s meat and feed the meal I put in the day earlier so its’ semi defrosted in the fridge. We have a deep freezer (even in the apartment we bought a deep freezer) so we can get about 120 lbs of meat at a time to keep costs and shopping less. We use THESE containers and put a couple blocks in. Whiskey eats about 1.5lbs and Bourbon (currently 8 months) eats about 2lbs. I use a fork to break up the semi-frozen blocks into a bowl, add any extras, and feed. It takes approx. 2 mins to prepare. We use a sanitizing wipe or spray on the mats after they’ve eaten and that’s about it. I’m extra cautious about tripe and I’m always in the room with the girls while they eat. I like to prevent any guarding issues with eating (all 3 are fed at the same time), and if we’re feeding bones, I’m also there to encourage them to stay on the mat. They also eat better and are less insecure if I’m there. If one finishes much faster, I’m also there to remove a temptation for one to go after another’s meal.

    a 40lb box of bulk raw meat, straight into the deep freezer, we get 3 at a time

    Proteins we feed

    I usually buy my food in bulk 40lb boxes of a single protein although sometimes I might get patties, or pre-mixes to make my life easier (or if someone is pet-sitting I want their lives to be easy!). Most mixes we use are around 80% muscle meat, 10% organ and 10% bone.

    Beef -local, but higher fat, prefer elk but harder to find
    Turkey- our go to protein, lean and easier to digest than chicken
    Pork- lean, we use rarely but I do like to mix in different protein, there is a blanket warning about feeding raw pork because of larvae of Trichinella spiralis (a parasite), however this is not an issue in Canada
    Elk- Low in fat, we love elk but hard to find and more expensive
    Fish- whole fish from Asian food markets, or fish byproduct from our local fish shop (odds and ends that don’t make it to human products), please note to freeze wild caught salmon or any hunted meats for 3 weeks before feeding to avoid parasites

    Nutrience Raw or other pre-mix- just feed packets and done! includes supplements, veg, variety meat mixed already

    Make sure the premix has muscle meat, bone, and organ, if not, then make sure you add some. You don’t need to add it in equally every meal, just overall. For instance some premix doesn’t have bone because it’s hard to grind up beef bones. I might feed 3 meals of beef without bone (2 meals a day) and then feed one meal of meaty bone. If I don’t add veg to one meal, I might add extra to another. You’re aiming for variety overall, not variety in every meal.

    raw turkey with sardines, egg, and Dr Dobias supplements

    Extras

    lamb neck- Whiskey’s favorite, a good treat I can’t always afford, Whiskey prefers it seared (roll eyes here)
    chicken carcass- Moo and Bourbon, best to start puppies from
    chicken/turkey hearts- for Moo (I feed her dog meat mix and add extra hearts for taurine)
    turkey/duck neck- Bourbon loves, Whiskey doesn’t seem to digest these well anymore (although turkey meat is ok)
    green tripe- Amazing for both dogs, I try to find whole pieces, not ground down (cheaper and less processed), super smelly but healthy if you can deal with the smell (not for the newly initiated into raw feeding!)
    pumpkin (canned)/ steamed yams
    steamed veges, chopped spinach,
    chicken egg/quail egg
    berries
    leftovers (nothing greasy, toxic, saucy)

    Supplements I use, I don’t really need to but I feel better!

    Supplements

    I use GreenMin, Soulfood from Dr Dobias (I use about a 1/3 of the recommended amount a day)
    Fish/sardines/krill oil for omega 3s
    Turmeric as an inflammatory (after high impact activity, or any swelling)
    Green lipped mussel for joints
    Kiefer for probiotics
    Gutsense (after vomiting or diarrhea or antibiotic use)

    Nutrience Raw mix with kiefer, turkey neck for Bourbon, lamb neck for Whiskey, and pumpkin

    Meal bones

    We feed meal bones 1-3 times a week. This is to help clean their teeth, and when I just need a break because it can take up to an hour for Whiskey to break down a piece of lamb neck. Chewing on a meaty bone takes brain power and it’s something they both enjoy and get tired doing. It’s the perfect rainy day activity.

    See this as an opportunity to vary your usual proteins, and size depending on your dog’s chewing ability. Start with smaller bones with a puppy or cats, like chicken carcass, and duck neck. My cat can break down turkey necks but she’s a bit…crazy. Start young and with boney pieces like chicken backs or turkey necks in sections (chop them up). If your dog is just licking the the meat if they are playing with it too much and cut into the meat so there’s more to work with. Whiskey also preferred her meat seared (I’m serious, she was that picky but then she would eat it). Don’t try cartilage until you know your dog is really into bones. Whiskey hates the texture.

    If you can feed outdoors that’s ideal but we have to feed indoors so we’ve taught the dogs to eat on a mat. Look around for a butcher than might keep you some cuts for cheap. Avoid weight bearing bones on large animals if your dog is a big chewer (they might crack teeth) and never feed cooked bones, especially small birds because cooked bones are brittle and can break and puncture intestines. If your dog does eat some by mistake, just keep an eye out for any signs of issues.

    Sample meal

    I just wash my hands after handling raw meat, I use food storage containers to defrost daily

    I typically don’t spend too much effort making a fancy meal for my dog but sometimes I’ll have extras. The base for most meals is just the block of meat I buy in bulk. Here’s an example of how much effort I put in myself, although I see many dog parents that make the most Instagram worthy meals for their pups!

    Simple meal (50%): 1 bock of meat half defrosted

    Regular meal (35%): 1 block of meat, some veg, supplements

    Fancy meal (10%): 1 block of meat, quail egg, fish, veg, tablespoon kiefer, supplements, berries from garden

    Bone Meal (10%): 1 piece of meaty bone

    Travel and Training with Raw

    For travel I’ll usually bring a couple blocks of meat for the first couple days and put them in the hotel fridge or an ice box. Pre-mixes are easiest at this point and sometimes the pre-packed packaging really helps in an ice box. If we are going into the backcountry our somewhere without a fridge I’ll start bringing freeze dried raw. There’s many different options on the market and in most cases you do get what you pay for. Try feeding the freeze dried as treats or food topper before going on the trip to make sure your dog will eat it happily first. I’ve found some cheaper brands will show in loose stools, but we’ve had the best luck with Open Farm’s freeze dried raw. Our dogs love it so much I use it as training treats and meal supplements while training Bourbon as a puppy. Also if your dog has also done well with kibble I don’t see harm in switching to kibble for travelling either as long as stools show no change and your dog seems to be doing well. Of course like always, I’m not an expert and just speaking from my own personal experience.

    Amount to feed

    Feed the dog in front of you. Start with an amount. If your dog is skinny, double it until your dog looks good, then reduce the amount until your dog looks healthy. If your dog is too big, halve the amount until your dog looks good, then find the amount in-between that keeps your dog at that weight. Don’t move up and down in small amounts. Watch their poop, bugs? loose? tight? it will tell you lots!

    Our costs are around 2-3$/lbs (Canadian dollars) in bulk 40lbs box. 53lbs Whiskey eats about 1.5lbs a day (3% of body weight but very active dog) and 41lbs Bourbon eats about 2lbs (5% of body weight at 8 months). They get extra on days we are doing big hikes, and maybe less if we’re not doing too much (although that’s rare because Bourbon doesn’t really allow that scenario).

    Puppy *first month home- 8-10%
    Growing puppy- 6-8%
    Teenager puppy- 4-6%
    1-2 yrs- 3-4%
    adult 2-3%
    active adult- 3%
    senior/less active/overweight adult – 1.5%

    On the top was my dinner, on the bottom, Whiskey’s dinner, this makes more sense to me than kibble

    What are the benefits to feeding raw

    -you know exactly what you are feeding, easier to control for allergies
    -not processed
    -local sources
    -control over ingredients (more fat, less fat, more meat, less pumpkin)
    -fresh food, easily digestible
    -less gas, less stinky breath, less poop (more food used, less poop wastage)
    -no preservatives
    -no fillers needed to make kibble
    -clean teeth (bones and no fillers/carbs)
    -less “doggie” odour
    -less shedding, softer shiner coat
    -more energy, better immune system

    Downsides to feeding raw

    -tends to be more expensive
    -gross compared to kibble
    -need to have organization and defrost, etc
    -more washing, more hassle
    -limited usage (ie compared to kibble best before date)
    -harder to source
    -need travelling options
    -can worry if old/young/immune compromised
    -need freezer space

    raw meat, roasted pumpkin, kefir, supplements

    What are the risks and how do we mitigate them?

    If there’s young children or very old family members that may be immune compromised, keep surfaces clean and don’t use the same bowl for humans and dogs. Use the same precautious handing any kind of meat as with the dog food. Avoid kisses right after eating. Don’t keep food too long defrosted, we’ve rarely had this issue, but I’ve refrozen the food (sometimes even for an hour or two) if I think we might be going on a camping trip. Remember humans are more at risk than dogs to things like e-coli, dogs eat loads of unsavory things and don’t get sick and their stomachs are better adjusted to eating raw meat than ours are.

    Switching diets to raw

    This really depends on the dog that is transitioning and can be easy or hard. With Whiskey it took months going from kibble to cooked to raw. Kibble to cooked food is really easy, and from cooked to raw, it took a longer time. I was new to raw feeding and was trying many sources and things. I also didn’t know that half frozen is ideal for texture! Whiskey is so picky with her food and since she was the only dog eating, there was no sense of competition (she ate better when we petsitted another dog).

    Bourbon just switched outright and never looked back. Some dogs are able to eat one meal kibble, one meal raw without issues, others cannot. Slow cooked food is the easiest to digest so use that for transitioning if you have a sensitive tummy. Start with a raw meal after 12-24 hours of a kibble one, start with a smaller amount, maybe with some pumpkin. If your dog doesn’t like half-frozen, try a room temperature meal but make sure you don’t leave the food out very long.

    Moo’s food is at the bottom. She gets the same raw and a chicken heart (for taurine)

    Digestive issues

    If your dog gets sick or has stomach issues after switching, watch their poop. As soon as Whiskey or Bourbon gets diarrhea or vomits more than once, I switch straight to slow cooked turkey, white rice, and pumpkin (or carrots). I also use Gutsense from Dr Dobias (probiotics specifically for dogs). I used to use another brand but once I looked up the ingredients I was really disgusted and found Gutsense. I keep feeding until the poop looks good for a couple days, then slowly transition back to raw. I basically just throw everything into a slowcooker and make a massive amount of congee (Chinese rice soup). Giardia is pretty prevalent where I live and after I learned to do this we haven’t had to go to the vet over any stomach issues since they clear up themselves.

    BC Sources we have tried and used and recommend

    RainCity meats $ (delivery) email muttleycrewadventures@gmail.com for details
    Beltrame meats $
    B&T Raw $
    In the Raw $$
    Nutrience Subzero Raw (Petsmart) $$$
    True Carnivores $$ (delivery)
    Open Farm (Discount Code Whiskey10) $$$
    Supplements from Dr Dobias $$

  • Update on Environmental Allergies

    It’s been awhile since I’ve updated on Whiskey’s allergies. I suppose it’s because we’ve “solved” them or at least found a solution that works well.

    To quickly summarize, we had noticed that Whiskey would get bumps on her exposed skin (normally ears/head) sometimes when she was outside. These bumps would quickly go away (within an hour or two) once she was inside and sometimes would be so bad she would resemble a Shar-pei. It was pretty clearly environmental, not only because they went away so quickly once out of the elements, but also because it never appeared where she wore a jacket, and sometimes they would appear only on the front of her legs (where she got splashed more) for places where she was more exposed.

    If we miss a dosage, minor bumps

    These allergies were worse when it was raining, especially after a period of dryness (corresponds with high allergens being released and popped by rainfall). We went to a dermatologist, did a full allergy testing (intradermal and blood) and tried Benadryl (no effect) and personalized immunotherapy (no effect).

    Eventually the vet suggested Reactine, which I thought wouldn’t work since Benedryl had no impact, however it worked! And right away! Whiskey is now on two pills of Reactine a day (2x10mg pills in the morning). If I skip a day, sometimes I can see bumps by noon, the effect is so obvious. I buy a large brie (or Camembert) cheese that last a month or longer and wrap her pills in the cheese (cheaper than pill pockets). The Reactine I get at Costco (no-name brand, cheapest option I’ve found). I haven’t noticed any side-effects or issues and I’m SO thankful we’ve found an easy solution although Whiskey will probably be on Reactine for her lifetime.

  • Ovary Sparing Spay

    Ovary Sparing Spay

    Whiskey hours before her spay

    We’ve just gotten back from a trip to Kelowna for Whiskey’s spay. When we first got a dog, I didn’t realize there were several different options for spays (and for neuters), each with pros and cons. As I’m typing this, Whiskey is next to me sleeping and recovering.

    fetching and swimming in Kelowna

    Just looking at a health perspective (let’s assume you aren’t leaving your dog in heat running around with intact males), there is up to a 25% chance of uterine infection with older intact females (pyometra) so if you aren’t breeding, getting a spay in North America is probably going to be considered. Here are the types of spay I was looking at:

    Ovariohysterectomy
    -traditional spay removing both the uterus and the ovaries
    -removes chance of pyometra
    -available anywhere
    –increase chance of joint disease and cancers since hormones are absent

    Ovariectomy
    -removing only the ovaries
    -removes chance of pyometra
    -typically a key hole surgery requiring a smaller incision
    -quicker surgery and potentially safer
    -less painful with a smaller cut
    -quicker recovery time
    -less vets can do this
    –increase chance of joint disease and cancers since hormones are absent

    Ovary sparing spay
    -removing only the uterus and cervix, leaving at least one ovary
    -removes chance of pyometra
    -still small chance of ovarian cancer
    -increased chance of mammary tumors over other spays
    -keeps heats but no bleeding
    -keeps all the hormones
    -difficult to find an experienced vet that does this

    one last sunset picture

    For larger breeds, because it’s healthier to keep the hormones, spays are usually delayed until the dog is “fully grown” although with an OSS, you could even do it earlier. I only really researched about spaying later because of this, and honestly I wanted to delay any kind of optional surgery as late as possible. Once I did look into it, I found the only vets near where we lived that offer this special spay were at least a 4-5 hour drive away. Poor Whiskey had no idea where we were going when we headed out on a roadtrip to Kelowna. She was so happy, hiking, exploring, and modelling the whole day before her spay.

    she’s old enough to understand the vet is no fun place!
    Whiskey’s suspicious face
    a small pre-surgery checkup
    waiting for her surgery time
    Freaking out a bit once we got her on the surgery table

    Because Whiskey had such little fat, she was more difficult to put under and struggled more than usual. Outside of that her spay went normal and we were there when she went to sleep and woke up. It was so heart-breaking to watch her struggling against the anesthesia as well as flailing around when she woke up (apparently certain breeds flail more than others). We didn’t leave her side until we drove home that evening.

    right after she finished with heating pads
    we made sure she could smell us before opening her eyes
    forcing her to lay down and not run out!
    stubbornly not laying down to recover at the office
    That evening Whiskey was feeling so poorly it was very difficult to get her to pee and poop and she was walking like a very very elderly dog with her head hanging low. It was so sad to see! The next day however she was still walking slow but she had perked up and was already giving kisses. By lunch time she would let me spoon feed her (yes, she’s a princess when she feels sad) and by the evening she was 80% back to normal. Currently I walk her on leash only with a long line and work on new tricks, training, and lots of patience!
    2 days after and healing