The Dog Walks Me

Category: Indoors

  • The Best Dog Boots for Snow

    The Best Dog Boots for Snow

    Dog Winter Boots Overview (highly detailed)

    One of the questions I get the most is what dog boots I recommend for the winter. The answer is complicated. It depends on the snow you’re on, the temperature, the length of time you are outside, how deep or packed the snow is, and what type of dog you have (dewclaws? energetic? insane? eats boots?). Here’s a highly detailed answer that seeks to lay everything out to help you choose a boot.

    Should Dogs Wear Boots in the Snow?

    I do not put boots on my dogs unless they need it. Dogs do not need boots in all conditions and I do not pre-emptively put boots on unless I know they will need them. Dogs need to feel the ground underneath their paws in order to navigate their surroundings and boots will make them slip as well as impede on things like climbing stairs, and walking up rocks. Imagine trying to open a can with thick gloves on your hands and not being able to see them as you work. In general, I advise not to put on boots unless your dog shows you they need them, but to carry them with you in case they do. However, there are obvious situations you should put on boots.

    1. They are injured or healing from injury
    2. They have a history needing boots in certain situation

    How do you know your dog needs boots? Mine will stop running, will lift up their paws, and will be obviously happier with the boots on zooming again once I put them on. Over time, I know that my dogs need them at -10 or lower, and I will bring them in my pack if I think we might reach those conditions (I tend to hike up mountains, so it gets colder as we ascend). Don’t forget the windchill!

    Bodhi is more sensitive to the cold than my Vizslas

    Dewclaws/ Small paws

    One of the biggest hurdles to booties are dewclaws or if your dog has small paws (in relation to ankles) and the boots slip off easily. Even though my girls do not have these issues, this is the advice I’ve seen works. Dewclaws rub on straps, edges of boots and over time they can bleed and make boots very painful. Some boots have straps in better locations (you need to try them) but even without a strap, the inward pressure on the dewclaw and material rubbing can be painful.

    If you notice this happening, use Vet Wrap (any brand will do, same used for humans) which is a self adhesive wrap under and then over the dewclaw. Do not wrap too tightly so it cuts off circulation or too loosely that it will move. It’s to prevent the dewclaw from moving too much. Then either put the boot over it, or use a sock on top.

    Socks are another layer of protection for dewclaws, or dogs with paws that are too slim so boots slip off. Either with or without the vet wrap, slide the boot on, and secure with vet wrap or medical tape. Then slip the boots on top. You will need to experiment to see what works best for each circumstance.

    Rubber Boots

    Balloon and rubber boots have their uses but not in the backcountry. Balloons actually work well and stay on well but will not survive long on abrasive surfaces like rock. They’re better on small dogs, short works, and when salt is a problem with leashed walks around the block. They’ve been used by my friends’ Chihuahuas and Pugs, dogs that need to be carried after a certain amount of time out. The wellies are thicker and some come lined, but some dogs will not do well with the thicker sole, and the boot will not stay on an off leash dog.

    Wonton is happy with his balloons to a point, then demands to be carried.

    Sock boots

    I do not recommend these boots for any long distance off leash running or walking. They’re best for indoors (if your dog is slipping on the floors), for smaller dogs, and those that are just going outside around the block for a potty. They will slip off with movement and are not ideal for snow.

    Classic Style

    I’m just going to call this type of boot the Classic style. They tend to have a soft material on the top, and a rubber sole on the bottom with a strap around the ankle. No matter what anyone says, they are not waterproof, but they’re ok with packed snow. The ankle strap can be very difficult with dewclaws and if you don’t use a sock, they can have a hard time staying on if your dog runs around off leash. A trick is to twist the boot both ways a little bit (clockwise and anticlockwse about a quarter twist) before tightening the strap.

    The Classic style will wear longer than rubber or sock boots. You definitely see your money with the construction of the boot. Cheaper styles will have stitching that rubs against the dog’s paw making blisters. We’ve experienced blisters on the top of the boot, and the sides where the sole meets, as well as the ankle. You also see the pricing difference with the quality of the Velcro.

    The downsides to this boot is many. No matter the brand we’ve tried, my dogs will take these off if we go for hours on a backcountry hike. The snow gathers around the opening and warms up with the temperature of the dog. The snow then turns to ice and starts rubbing at the ankles. My own dogs are hairless and the boots we have tried seem to have been made for dogs with thicker ankles so the boots don’t stay on as well. The versions with thicker soles have been the most disliked because with no feeling at the paw, they cannot scramble or climb obstacles. Last, with time our boots have worn down and the materials have peeled away.

    Overall, these have their uses and I’ve used them for years. I would recommend duct taping them closed, and to a jacket if it’s possible to keep them on. They’re better for dogs that aren’t running around like crazy and I would select boots with thinner soles and a warranty.

    Ruffwear Polar Trex -Thick soles with gaiters. Good idea but Whiskey didn’t like these. She couldn’t feel the ground and the gaiters took up and kept snow inside.

    Canine Equipment Ultimate Trail Boots -4 different boots, L/R back sized smaller than front. Discontinued, longer review here. I liked these boots for the thinner soles, easy to put on straps and warranty that my friends had tried. Unfortunately some of the older boots I had purchased had started wearing on the top and the material split disintegrating to pieces. I’m still using whatever is left however.

    Hurtta Dog boots – We used these until they broke. The fabric on the middle/center of the heel wore through and made holes. Whiskey didn’t mind these and they stayed on if you pulled the strap tightly and then wove it back through the strap in the front. Otherwise they would come off. A new version is supposed to be coming soon.

    Old pair of Hurtta boots. The weak point was the velcro and where the boot joined the sole

    Musher’s

    This type of boot is what we used on mushing dogs while dogsledding in the Yukon. They’re very cheap, easy to put on and off, and are thin so the dogs can feel the ground. You won’t be too frustrated if you loose a couple of these but they won’t last as the fabric does wear out. These boots are good for packed snow on trails, nothing wet (or they will freeze), when you just want to keep the ice out. They’re also a very easy beginner boot if your dog is fussy about the thick soled ones with thick straps. I’ve been using these more with Bourbon because I can’t trust she won’t lose them but so far, I’ve been able to find the ones she’s “lost”.

    I’ve been really liking the Nonstop booties these days. The price is reasonable and they use a higher quality velcro with a bungee that makes putting the boots on easier and tighter. The boots however do let in snow over time with deep powder and then they fill up with snow and fall off. This is normally after several hours running around. The edges also do ice over like the other boots we’ve tried, and you cannot get the boot wet or it will freeze (no running through creeks).

    I’ve used the nonstop Protector Bootie as an injury bootie and I love it but it’s also not good with cold weather as it will freeze as well. It’s more protective in damper and warm conditions but I wouldn’t recommend it in the snow. With all these boots, if you can, duct tape them on!

    after 2.5 hours in the snow, you can see the ice building

    Soft Boots

    There are all higher up the leg than some of the short Classic boots. This can be better or worse for dogs with dewclaws depending on the location of the straps. It’s better for trails where the dogs need just a bit more length so snow doesn’t fill in, but can be worse if the snow does fill in and collects to make ice balls. Like all the other styles, the quality (and usually price point) does make a difference for sewing and materials used.

    The downsides to these boots are they slip down my dogs’ legs. The velcro is never going to hold through all the movement and I haven’t found one with higher quality velcro and many straps. The seams are an edge around the sides of the paw and also rub the paws over time. The snow collects around the rim and will fill into the boot and then freeze when the dog’s body warms the snow into ice. Duct tape can solve most of these issues!

    Muttluks– I like Muttluks as an emergency bootie but the straps aren’t great so I duct tape them to Bourbon’s paws. They’re also all the same size so looser fit in general.

    Voyager K9 Apparel– the highest boot and better for shorter walks, not major hiking because the fabric is not waterproof.

    Neoprene Options

    Great because snow does not stick to Neoprene and even when wet, Neoprene will hold in heat (it’s what wetsuits are made out of to keep people warm in the water). Not great because it’s very thick material and if your dog needs the feel the ground or any kind of technical surface they will probably not like it (Whiskey struggled). With dogs that do not mind a thick sole, these might be a good option.

    Neopaws – a huge variety of sizes and orthopedic options, but very thick sole

    GF Pet Elasto-fit Boots

    Gaiters

    For snow that’s a bit higher but NOT very deep snow. Gaiters will fill with deep snow if there isn’t a seal on the boots and snow will just fill in and collect with no way out (we’ve experienced this and took them off in deep snow). Otherwise it’s great because you can’t lose the boots. They’re complicated to put on, but I used them on both dogs without issues or complaints. Backcountry Paws seems to be constantly out of stock, but I would recommend them if they were possible to order. Contrary to what you might think, I would recommend them for more packed trails so snow won’t get in, or for dogs that won’t go swimming in deep snow.

    Backcountry Paws Gaiters

    Walkee Paws Leggings

    Wax

    If your dog is gathering snowballs or is picking ice off his paws, Wax is a great solution that does not involve losing boots. Trim the hair as much as you can around and under their paws, and apply Musher’s wax (in the car right before you head out). It’s easier to apply the wax when it’s not frozen, and you do not want to get wax on your car, or let your dog lick it off on the ride so just before you run is best. I apply it to my dogs just as a protective layer if I think we are close to their comfortable exposure temperature -5 to -10 in order to increase their ability to run without boots. My girls don’t ball up or collect ice with their silky hair but the wax does help protect their paws slightly.

    paw Pup Wax – use after out for a long time or exposure to salt

    Musher’s wax -works if your dog isn’t cold but gets ice balls around the long hairs between their paws (first would be to cut them shorter). They also do protect for a couple degrees difference (say if your dog needs boots at -5 degrees this might help make a 4 degree difference) and against salt but it does wear off. It it on right before you get out of the car when it’s slightly warmer as I’ve had a harder time when the wax is frozen.

  • RELIABLE RECALL CHALLENGE: Can your dog do this?

    Here’s a list of recall challenges from easy to hard. If you’re struggling with what to do next in your recall training, this might give you an idea about how to move forwards. Actively seek challenges after your dog has a reliable recall when it is safe! Make sure you reward reward reward, and never yell or punish your dog when they come to you (even if it’s taking a VERY long time). There’s a load of resources online about how to reward your pup for recall so make sure you’ve got a basic recall before you can challenge.

    Can you recall your dog from…

    1. A dog approaching on leash
    2. Approaching something tasty on the ground (that they would normally eat)
    3. A dog approaching and staring straight at your dog
    4. A human approaching offering treats
    5. Birds/Squirrels at a distance (after your dog sees it)
    6. An offleash dog approaching slowly
    7. An offleash dog approaching quickly and staring at your dog
    8. While your dog is eating something tasty on the ground (after your dog has taken a lick)
    9. A human your dog knows and likes
    10. A dog your dog knows and likes
    11. Larger prey animal like Deer, Racoon, Cats, Porcupine
    12. Predators like Bears, Coyotes
    13. A human dressed in black, during dusk/dawn
    14. A human stalking dressed in black, during dusk/dawn, on your property
    15. A strange dog on your property
    16. Someone feeding your dog treats

  • Vizsla’s first Heat- What to Know, How to keep Camping

    Vizsla’s first Heat- What to Know, How to keep Camping

    It’s becoming more common in North America not to spay or neuter a dog until they’re “fully developed” as it’s finally being recognized that the previous recommendations to spay at 6-8 months, before a dog goes through a heat cycle, is not generally healthy. Rescues tend to spay even earlier, some as early as 8 weeks! Reasoning is that early spaying prevents unplanned mating and litters and the unwanted dogs that end up killed in shelters. While this is still an issue in some locations, it’s also quite easy to prevent unwanted pregnancy in a pet dog so I wrote this to help out owners that may be nervous about managing a dog in heat.

    Some rescues spay a puppy this young

    So why wait?

    Waiting until the dog reaches puberty is now generally recommended so the dogs can naturally develop with hormones from their sex organs. This is proven to reduce cancers, orthopedic issues, behavior issues, urinary incontinence, however increases the chance of mammary tumors and cancers, as well as testicular cancer (just the same as removing the breasts will remove the chance of breast cancer). A study with Vizslas in particular show that neutered dogs (between 6 and 12 months) had significant higher chances of mast cell cancer, lymphoma, all other cancers, fear of storms, and those before 6 months had increased chances of a behavioral disorder.

    Life continues with a diaper

    I chose to wait with Whiskey and paid for an OSS spay (more about that here) that keeps an ovary so she still has her heat without bleeding. Whiskey went through several heats before her surgery. With Bourbon, the advice from my vet now is not to undergo an unnecessary surgery if possible so we will wait until there is a reason to.

    Owning an intact dog is definitely more hassle and work. Not only do you need to keep a close eye on a female in heat, but you need to deal with bleeding, a potential change in personality, and it can be extra challenging around other dogs. At first I was quite overwhelmed with the process, but after a heat I didn’t find it difficult to deal with.

    Bourbon hiking and adventuring during her first heat

    A Vizsla’s heat cycle

    A female Vizsla’s first heat can be anywhere from 8 months to 1.5 years old but typically 10 months to 1 year (this changes in breeds, typically depending on weight/size). After the first heat, their heat cycle is usually between every 6 months to a year. Whiskey had her first heat just after she turned 1 year old, and Bourbon just before her birthday. I believe Bourbon was first out of her sisters. Bourbon’s heat cycle is every 6 months, just like her mother, and Whiskey is once a year. It takes a couple years for their cycles to regulate so be patient. The first heat is NOT usually typical of the rest of them. Ask your breeder about your dog’s mother’s heat and you might get a hint of what may happen!

    Signs before

    With Whiskey I had lots of signs before her first heat (about 2-3 weeks notice), with Bourbon there was none and it’s always been a surprise. Whiskey is more in tuned with her emotions and body, while Bourbon is a little bit of a jackrabbit with a small attention span and is harder to read.

    Whiskey’s signs at the beginning of her heat (before bleeding)

    • Less appetite, skipping meals
    • More socializing, interest in saying hi to dogs (both female and male)
    • Dogs are more interested in sniffing
    • Swelling of vulva
    • licking her genitals
    • marking (pee marking everywhere)
    • discharge

    Bourbon’s signs

    • Nothing, then SURPRISE

    Other signs your dogs might have

    • Change in behavior (clingy, sleepy, personality change)
    • Aggression to male dogs

    Changes during a dog’s heat

    I never noticed a behavioral change in either of my girls although it’s been regularly reported that Vizslas in particular will get VERY extra Velcro and needy. They can be uncomfortable, moody, basically just like human females and need extra emotional support. The big difference I’ve noticed is that my girls are very social especially with good looking males! Whiskey is a gigantic flirt, however it’s not with every male. She is particular with her ‘type’ and will be very upset at unwanted advances from the ‘wrong’ dog.

    Whiskey will ask to go outside to mark and look for males during her heat, and will wander further and approach dogs (she normally never approaches dogs) and show them her rear. It’s very common for dogs to be more tired and uncomfortable but I haven’t noticed that with either of my girls. We continue our regular hikes and walks (just further away from others) and I do not notice a change in energy although it’s very common.

    Dog diapers

    Bleeding and diapers

    Bleeding is possibly the largest annoyance you’ll have to deal with, unless you own a male unfixed dog. Depending on your living conditions, you could just lay out blankets in a crate or bed and change those frequently. Vizslas keep themselves very clean and you might be surprised how little you have to clean! I’ve also heard it can be more comfortable to air out and not wear a diaper all day long if it’s not needed.

    On the other hand, diapers are very handy if you do not have a large uncarpeted area for your dog, or you are sleeping together in a car or tent (camping is extra awkward!). My girls will bleed for about 3 weeks, the last week turning less bloody and more clear. This last week when the blood stops, is actually the most fertile point and you need to be extra cautious of meeting males. You’ll also notice your girl ‘flagging’ with her tail to the side when she meets other dogs (or smells them). Keep your dog supervised the entire heat, but keep an even more close watch (and tighter leash) during the stage when they flag because this is when they may escape and when they are most fertile.

    The pink is Seasonals Diaper, the other is Amazon brand Teamoy lined diapers both Medium

    We’ve tried 3 types of diapers. The first were home-made, just an old pair of panties tied tight with a hole for her tail and a panty liner. This…was a bit of a mess and Whiskey could escape from them easily. The second was a store-bought one and I put liners in (brand was Seasonals), and the third, my favorite is a washable one with built in liners (see photos).

    Because our dogs have such a skinny stomach and slim buttocks, you may need to size down if the diapers go by weight of dog. I ended up sewing extra velcro onto the diapers because Whiskey was so skinny. The important thing to remember is to take the diapers off before they go outside otherwise they’ll pee in it. This isn’t too hard to remember but can be quite the game when you’re camping and your dog jumps in and out of the tent all night long.

    Camping with your dog in heat

    Because we camp in an area with bears, cougars, and coyotes, blood needs to be contained and sealed off. I take freezer ziplock bags to put used liners in, and then put the ziplock bags into drybags and everything is stored with our food and garbage overnight (100m+ away hung on a tree or in a buried bear bag). I will also bring dog wipes to deal with cleaning, extra water, and lots of panty liners. Even if the diapers have built in liners, it’s more efficient to bring liners than 4 pairs of diapers if you need to carry in and out. Bourbon sleeps inside my sleeping bag the diaper needs to fit very well! I’ve done 3 camping trips with Bourbon in heat, in 3 different tents without issue.

    Males and interactions with dogs

    During the heat, both females and males will be very interested in sniffing my dogs. I normally walk in quieter locations but during heat, will flat out avoid certain places that may have more dogs. I will always ask (if I cannot see) if a dog is female or male, fixed or intact before they meet. Whiskey can be very aggressive in flirting with a dog so if the dog is small, or shy, or finds her advances unwanted, we stay away and are leashed.

    Whiskey will flirt with all dogs, female or male, and even old seniors so I really need to control her around others! Bourbon’s still very new and is not spayed (Whiskey has her OSS spay) so I do not entirely know her personality during her heat around other dogs. Her first heat she showed no interest in males she met (very few, none intact) but her second heat she was singing to the boys (she stayed at her breeder with intact males). No matter what, keep your dog under control and supervise them even in a fenced yard (dogs can mate between fences).

    Bourbon in heat hanging out with her sister River

    The easiest thing if you have an unfixed male living with you, is to see if someone can take your male for a couple weeks. If not, separate them in different rooms or crate one at a time. If there are several males in a household, they can lose their appetite and fight amongst each other so you might need to separate the males from each other too. It goes to say, do not let your female in the yard unattended, do not let your males out together unattended.

    My experience with my girls in heat

    When I lived in the city, I would drive 45mins away for off leash walks on extremely quiet trails and wake up earlier for city walks. I don’t mind letting Whiskey say hi to other dogs on leash that are fixed, but under no circumstances do we allow humping (from any dog, regardless of sex or neutering). Even though Whiskey is spayed, she can still tie and that can be traumatic and physically painful for her. We once stayed at an Airbnb cabin out of town while Whiskey was in heat and literally had the “boys” come to the yard and wait for her to come out.

    Overall it’s not been too much work outside of managing diapers as the dogs run in and out of the house, car, tent, etc. Most of my friends have fixed males that do not have any interest in my girls in heat, and we do not meet too many dogs on a daily basis. I work from home now and no longer need daycare or a dog walker that insists on a spayed female (this can depend on cities and what is the norm). Some of my friends have Vizslas that have a hard time and are quite depressed or mopey but my girls seem unfazed so far (Bourbon hasn’t had enough heats for me to be sure). Whiskey has great recall even in heat, is spayed, so she’s off leash in most cases, but Bourbon has a very long range so she needs special care, more on-leash time, and remote walks.

  • What you need in a Hiking Dog’s First Aid Kit

    What you need in a Hiking Dog’s First Aid Kit

    Already have a human first aid kit for hiking and camping? Wondering what ELSE you might need for your dog? There’s no need to double up commercial first-aid kits for you and your pup as most elements can be shared but there are some extras to bring and take into consideration. The dog-specific pieces can also be shared with humans and you might find them quite useful!

    Listed in detail below, some items that are good to have at home, in the car, on the trail

    Whiskey and I have been hiking since she was a puppy and with the addition of Bourbon, we’ve had to deal with lots of minor issues while in the backcountry and on roadtrips without reception or vets nearby. Even at home, we’re able to deal with minor emergencies without having to pay for a vet visit.

    When I’m hiking I always have a small first-aid kit and I add extra pieces depending on the length of the hike and the risk factors as well as the size of the pack I’ll be taking. I’ve never seen most of these products listed in ready-made canine first-aid kits that you can purchase so I thought this list might be good for people that are active and in the wilderness with their dogs.

    Consider where you are going, the environment and temperature, as well as any medical issues your own dog might have. Always bring extra clothing for warmth, and shade. And let me know in comments on anything I may have missed!

    Trail Dog First Aid Checklist

    Items in your Human First-Aid Kit should have that can be shared with your Pet

    • Gauze
    • Adhesive tape
    • Swabs
    • Ice Pack
    • Scissors/ knife
    • Gloves
    • Bandages
    • Alcohol wipes
    • Saline
    • Tweezers
    • Headlamp/flashlight
    • Splint
    • Eye wash- non medicated eyewash can be used on dogs
    • Polysporin/ antibiotic ointment
    • All-purpose skin soother -Skincare for sunburns, rashes, chapped lips, bug bites, and healing cuts and scrapes
    • water-proof bag
    • towel
    This is minimum what I carry in my daypack
    This all fits into a small bag in previous photo called “first aid kit”

    Trail Specific First Aid Kit Items

    • Blister Packs
    • Zip Ties
    • Lighter
    • Water Purification Tablets
    • Emergency Blanket
    • Electrolyes
    • Multi-use tool/ Swiss Army Knife

    Trail Dog First Aid Kit additions

    • Benedryl (Diphenhydramine), Reactine (Cetirizine)– Pills are the most used item in my first-aid (human or dog). These I use for any allergic reaction including bug bites
    • Tick remover– if you have a chance of ticks in the area, clearly also for humans
    • Tweezers– very useful with the tick remover but also splinters, cactus spines, shards of things that get imbeded
    • Pup Wax -nose and paw wax balm for dogs, I use this nightly when hiking on boulder fields and the paws are about to be cracked (or are already cracked) to keep them moisturized as well as dry noses
    • Dr Dobias Skin Spray– Wonderful for skin scrapes and closed wounds as well as insect bites. Also great on humans
    • EMT Gel– Fantastic for paw cracks and tears in the skin. I was able to stave off Bourbon’s paw fully cracking with this gel, pupwax, wrapping and a bootie while hiking for 8 days in a row.
    • Duct Tape– as much as the adhesive tape in a regular first-aid kit might help humans, I’ve found Duct Tape is very helpful for dog patients. It’s also wonderful for fixing gear that breaks and holding boots in place for crazy running Vizslas.
    • Superglue– or stapler but superglue is much smaller to carry on treks out (many of my friends will carry a stapler to staple wounds)
    • Dog-friendly bug/tick spray– I’m still working on finding the magical dog-friendly bug spray but I’ve used Cedarwood-based, citronella based, and I would like to try PERMETHRIN next. Regardless, throw a pet-friendly spray in
    • Emergency Bootie– slightly larger size than usual, universal boot (not left/right) to accommodate bandages underneath if needed. I use muttlucks and duct tape this one when needed.
    • Hydrogen Peroxide– to in duce vomiting immediately after ingesting a non-corrosive poison (do not induce vomiting if you think it might be corrosive), commonly while hiking, if your dog eats mushrooms, or human feces that may be laced with drugs, anything that may have drugs (including edibles), poisoned meat, etc
    • Activated Charcoal+ powdered milk– if your dog has eaten something and is reacting (you did not induce vomiting in time) already reacting to the effects. I add the milk to make it more palatable and it also coats the stomach to prevent absorption while the charcoal works to bind the poison. Mix with water into a paste with a syringe pump or bowl if your dog will eat it.
    • Vet Wrap– Extremely useful for paw injuries, holding bandages in place, or sprains. I use it for myself when I consistently sprain my ankle. Sticks to itself and is non-adhesive to anything else. Also useful for boots and harnesses that rub.
    • Gravol/Famotidine– Whiskey has a sensitive stomach so this is more Whiskey-specific. When her stomach is very gurgling and she’s not wanting to eat, I give her Famotidine and it settles. Whatever drugs your dog may need, of course, bring some in your first aid kit
    • Emergency leash/ Rope + carabiner– leashes and collars break or get lost, an extra rope can really help, be made into a quick harness, or help muzzle a dog in pain.
    • Dog sling/bag/ability to carry out an injured pet– depending on the size of your dog, whom with, and where you are going, make sure you have the ability to carry your dog out
    • Bandana or cloth– you may need to drench a piece of cloth in water to cool a dog down, and emergency it can be very helpful to cover your dog’s eyes, or muzzle your dog while working on an injury, especially if you are alone

    DO NOT SHARE

    Be cautious of these items and research ahead of time if the ones in your kit are dog-friendly or not

    medications– some medications can be shared with your dog, and some not. Make sure you have an understanding of the dosage and which are poisonous, this includes medicated eyedrops
    creams/oils– some ingredients that can be used for humans like certain essential oils can be dangerous for dogs
    bug spray– DEET is poisonous to dogs, even while spraying, make sure your dog is upwind
    sun screen– Many types of sunscreen are potentially toxic if if a dog licks it off

    Keep your puppies safe!

    [wps_products product_id=”7342189740231″]

  • the Best Tents and Considerations for Camping with Dogs

    the Best Tents and Considerations for Camping with Dogs

    Camping with dogs can mean freedom and an escape from the city, but it can also have it’s own complications, especially if it’s your first time or you camp solo. A good tent can really ease the transition and prevent accidents that might happen. There is a large variety of tents prices to go with those and since this your “home” while outdoors, it really is worth choosing wisely.

    Prepare

    So you want to go camping but your dog’s never been in a tent? After you purchase one, it’s a good idea to set it up at home, or in the backyard and take a nap together inside. Work on going in and out with treats and teach your pup it’s a good place. Check out this other post I wrote about first time camping with a dog and things to think about, as well as how to introduce the tent. Just please do not zip your dog inside the tent alone unless your dog is very chill, trained, and calm.

    Whiskey with my 1ppl Big Agnes UL fishhook- there are no zippers

    A Large Doorway

    When choosing a tent, look for a larger doorway. Doorways that are small and narrow will be difficult to get in and out when you are stepping over a sleeping pup, and can be frustrating at night. You want a good zipper that doesn’t snag, and ideally several options to open it quickly from inside and out. It’s great to have space to put a towel on the ground to clean paws before they jump onto your sleeping bag, and also space to put shoes, a bag, easy access to leashes. Finally you want to have a wide sightline outside for your dog, approaching animals, and anything else. The more animals you have, the more you will appreciate a wide entryway.

    I’ve now upgraded to a larger 2ppl Nemo Dragonfly tent with 2 dogs

    Mesh

    I cannot stress to you how much a good quality mesh is important with dog nails. UL or Ultra lightweight tents sacrifice tough materials including mesh for weight so it’s easier to carry but this lightweight mesh is very easy to puncture. Whiskey likes to “paw” at the doorway to enter and my heavier tents have withstood this. There are many snags in the mesh, but no holes but I’ve heard so many dogs ruining the popular UL Hubba Hubba mesh trying to jump out at the wrong moment.

    This Marmot Ajax 3ppl tent is well over a decade old and still going

    Freestanding

    Some tents, especially lightweight tents can be non-freestanding where you need to stake lines in order to create the tent shape. They prioritize weight over convivence and can also use trekking poles as tent poles. I don’t recommend these for dogs for several reasons. The more lines you have running from the tent, the more entanglement you’ll get with legs and leashes. Bourbon seems to have fun pulling out pegs on my last trip and the inside of my tent tends to wander with two dogs so a strong, freestanding tent is my goal. If your tent structure goes down every time a stake gets pulled, it could get frustrating! These tents also take longer to set up and especially with multiple dogs, rain, and wildlife, you just might want to have less complications in life! Lastly, I camp in rocky locations and places where pegging isn’t really an option, so a freestanding tent is a must.

    Group 8 day backpacking trip

    Pockets

    I LOVE pockets! Pockets in tents are amazing. There’s always collars, leashes, sprays, towels, and a multitude of things that need to be packed away in it’s own place. I always put my headlamp, dog collars, and first aid things right next to my head. Pockets are also great for drying out whatever the dogs get muddy, and keeping the tent floor from becoming a huge mess when they start digging into your sleeping bag.

    My cheaper, heavier tent withstood the snow and wind better than the UL tents my friends had

    Footprint/Flooring

    Buy it, use it! Spend the extra cash for a footprint and use it, or a tarp is just as good. A thicker tent may not need a footprint (I don’t always use one myself when it’s dry) but lighter tents will need one and it will keep your tent lasting longer and dryer and prevent abrasions from rocks and dog paws digging.

    I suggest a footprint with snow or wet ground

    Single/Double wall

    Some lighter tents or cheaper tents may be single-walled. They tend to be solid so water does not go through but if pressed, water will condense through. These will not be as ventilated as double walled tents that will have mesh as an inner layer with a waterproof fly. I highly suggest double walled tents. Many dogs will like to lay in a corner of the tent pushing against the tent walls and if it’s a single layer, can bring water in. The single layer laminated wall is also the only layer between you and the elements so if it rips, you will need to pray you have enough duct tape! When the weather gets too warm or stuffy, it’s also nice to be able to take off the rainfly and let the tent air out or even enjoy the stars! But if your dog isn’t feeling safe open to the elements (many dogs feel uneasy) you can put the fly back on and create a closed off den.

    This is a cheaper Coleman 6ppl tent we car-camped out of for a month and half

    Car Camping

    With weight not a problem, I would suggest a large tent you can stand inside (check the height) and a second-hand or affordable one. You don’t need lightweight, and most tents these days are made well enough to withstand wind, rain, and typical use. The ability to stand-in and change or wrangle dogs without kneeling is SO helpful. Unless you’re camping more than 30 days a year, most cheaper tents will work just fine. We forgot our tent on our trip to Alaska and bought a cheap Coleman tent at Canadian Tire that lasted the entire trip fine under all weather and even crazy winds. With cheap tents, expect to replace pegs and take a little bit extra time to put together. The poles may have cheaper elastic but that’s also easily fixed with duct tape. Our North Face tent was much better made and still survives to this day, but it’s heavier (better fabric), packs easier, and has better zippers. If this is your first time out camping, put your money elsewhere (like a good mat!).

    This is my 4ppl Northface tent for car-camping that you can stand up in

    Backcountry Camping

    This is where weight and packability matters. For most brands, there are UL tents of various sorts and a cheaper line of tents. Even though the UL tents tend to be more expensive, I do not suggest them because the material is easier to break and do not stand up to dog use well. Unless you have one well trained dog and weight is of utmost importance, I would suggest a heavier, cheaper tent and take on the extra 2lbs it may weigh. Either way, bring some duct tape on your trip in case something rips open and a big scoop of good humor! Camping with dogs is always interesting!

    A double walled tent allows you to take off the fly and enjoy the stars and breeze

    We’ve used the Marmot Ajax 3ppl tent for 2 of us and Whiskey for well over a decade. I’ve got a UL 1ppl tent for solo camping that’s only 2 lbs (it’s the Fishook tent with no zipper) but that would be too tight with 2 dogs, camera gear, and clothing. I still carry the 3ppl 6lb tent when just solo camping with Whiskey sometimes because it’s just so much more comfortable if the conditions are rainy. Being stuck in a 1ppl tent for a rainy evening or afternoon is SO uncomfortable and I would rather carry weight than be stuck in an awkward tight position. Researching further I just ordered the Nemo 2ppl tent as my new solo tent and I’ve been considering the Copper Spur 3ppl tent as a new 3ppl option but am holding back due to the flimsy material and huge cost. I think if I’m sharing a tent, then sharing the load would be acceptable.

    My heavier Marmot swallow 3ppl tent for winter camping

    Winter Camping

    I haven’t done too much backcountry snow camping but I did buy a heavier vintage tent for the purpose. It’s very warm, with loads of venting options, space, and can seal up tight if needed. Winter tents that are light are very expensive, so vintage was the way to go! Even though it’s not the latest tech, the huge zippers, heavy mesh make me so comfortable with dogs running in and out. The last time I used the tent it was actually too warm in the morning, and I haven’t found too many friends that want to winter camp so I just haven’t had the opportunity to use this one too often.

    FAQ

    What’s the best backcountry tent for 1 person and a dog?

    I would suggest a stand-alone, double walled, cross-bar 1 or 2 person tent to share with a dog. Crossbar tents are quick and easy to set up with a large door and slightly thicker mesh (not super UL). Make sure the zipper is well made and does not snag.

    What’s the best car camping tent for dogs?

    If you are starting out, get something that is easy for one person to set up (unless you always camp with multiple people)

    How do I teach dogs to camp in a tent?

    Check out this blog about first time camping with dogs!

    What other gear is good for camping with dogs?

    Here’s a blogpost on Our Best and Tested Gear for Camping with Dogs

  • How to: First time Camping in a Tent with Dogs

    How to: First time Camping in a Tent with Dogs

    Never been camping with your dog? Here’s the basics to get you thinking!

    Planning/Before

    -set up a tent in your home, or your backyard, go inside with your dog, bring lots of treats, and hang out to get them comfortable
    -zip up and down the tent while you are inside together
    -take your dog inside the tent after they are exercised and take a nap together
    -Open a door halfway and show them how to get in and out even if the doorway isn’t open all the way
    -Teach your dog to wait until you open the door to jump in
    -Teach your dog what the mesh is, that they cannot go through the mesh when it is closed
    -do not zip your dog inside the tent, with you outside (or vice versa) until you are confident they are calm
    -start with car camping, you always have a place to escape to, and you can easily bring more gear
    -make sure you camp with someone experienced or are comfortable camping alone, there’s nothing worse than having to take care of both your dog and a human!
    -choose a place to camp where you can easily walk your dog during the day, we always research trails around the campsite as well as trails while driving to and from the location. Do this before you are out of reception!
    -I advise to get tents that are not ultralight. Ultralight tents are have very thin mesh and materials and tend to rip quickly when a dog taps the material in order to get out. Duct tape is always a good idea!
    -here’s a post I wrote specifically about tents and dogs
    -Babywipes are always useful! Camping was never a clean activity!

    When you get to the site

    -go somewhere that isn’t packed with as much space as possible between campsites, book or choose a campsite away from bathrooms, perhaps in the corner of the campground where you will have the least amount of people wandering by
    – bring a long line to tie up your dog if they wander, a Tuflex check cord works the best as it doesn’t knot, is easy to clean, and is still flexible in cold weather
    -if there are bugs, see if you can bring natural bug repellent like citronella candles, read all the directions of bug repellents. Remember your dog is (most likely) smaller than you and are more effected by poisons. There are some bug sprays and electric repellents that state you cannot use when you are eating or around small ponds with fish (it poisons the water) or with babies or kids. I would not use these with pets!
    -a dog mat is always a good idea, even if you dog doesn’t need it, just to keep everything clean, and to have a “place” for your dog to return to on command.

    During

    -say hi to your neighbours if they’re friendly and introduce your dog, mention that it’s their first time camping and bring treats if it helps. Be really nice especially if they have kids or another dog.
    -walk your dog around the campground if he’s friendly
    -respect your neighbours and make sure you clean up after your dog
    -if your dog wakes up early or stays up late due to the unfamiliar territory, take him for a walk to tire him out
    -try and keep to any routines you might have at home (time you eat, sleep, bedtime routines)
    -close the fly so your dog cannot see outside if they are guarding, or barking at noises or people
    -keep an eye out for people passing by and work on rewarding your pup for not barking, and for being friendly, the site will probably be “his” territory so you’ll have to make sure your dog knows who’s in charge and that you have your eye on things
    -If you must leave your dog (to go to the bathroom or clean dishes for example), leave them in the car to avoid wildlife, strangers coming by, or whatever else may happen, do not leave your dog in the tent alone. I’ve had my tent “walk” after me on occasion. You can also leash your dog outside the bathroom or ask someone to keep them while you go.
    -keep a jar of treat (or kibble) around and use this as a training opportunity, although respect rules about food and wildlife, especially bears.

    Afterwards

    -Pick up after yourself and your pup when you leave the campground
    -Inspect your tent for any holes or damage and repair it before the next trip
    -If you hit any issues with camping, work on training at home before going out again. If there are issues guarding, or anxieties, you can practice at home or in a backyard before heading out
    -Make a list of equipment or situations that could be improved. Depending on where and how you camp, there are loads of gear and solutions that may be available. For instance my dogs prefer to sleep on my mat, in my sleeping bag no matter how many dog beds I bring, so I now have an extra long, extra wide mat and sleeping bag to house them. However while I’m not actively sleeping, I bring their own beds that can be dirtied and used in and out of the tent so they can go in and out of a bed while not making a mess out of mine.

  • Preventative Joint Supplements for an Aging Active Dog

    Preventative Joint Supplements for an Aging Active Dog

    My aging beauty 8 years old and sugar-faced with a flower crown

    Whiskey just turned 8 and the reality of an older dog is hitting hard. Although we are still doing all the long distance multi-day hiking, the trail runs, and offleash walks at least twice a day, Whiskey’s slowing down and I know she’s getting achy just like me. Sometimes we hike over 12 hours a day, half on scree and boulder fields, scrambling 2000m+ (7000 ft) vertically up and down mountains. The longest hike we did last year was 8 days in a row and Whiskey did every single one of the extra side-trips and peaks.

    Just last year I started researching what supplements might be good for joints as a preventative to keep Whiskey oiled and feeling good over long days. Although I have very little knowledge compared to vets or specialists, I’d like to share what we’re using since so many ask. Keep in mind, Whiskey has no current issues and everything is used as a preventative. I also feed my dogs raw at home (other things while we travel), and take a balanced approach to their health (between traditional and holistic). I also do not make money off any links (feel free to buy me a coffee or shop in my store if you want to support me)

    Omega-3s Fish Oil– There’s a huge list of studied benefits of Omega-3 fatty acids for humans and the same holds true for puppies and dogs. It can be used as treatment for arthritis and kidney disease in older dogs and is great for skin, coat, nervous system and joints. I use squid oil to avoid mercury.

    Glucosamine– One of the most used ingredients for join supplements. Similar to humans, glucosamine helps keep our cartilage healthy but as we age, the body makes less which can lead to joint breakdown and inflammation. Daily supplements usually made of shellfish can relieve pain and help inflammation.

    Chondroitin Sulfate-Chondroitin helps mobility and flexibility and prevents the break down of cartilage. It works well combined with Glucosamine to help joints, and even stimulate repair mechanisms.

    MSM– is a natural chemical in dogs and humans (and other living things) and is used to treat arthritis. Like Glucosamine and Chondroitin, it can be used to support connective tissue and has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.

    Turmeric– The active ingredient in Turmeric is curcumin that has been studied to be an effective anti inflammatory without the side effects of traditional drugs. I use Turmeric after we’ve had a big day, and tend to carry it on hiking road-trips.

    CBD– CBD interacts with the endocannabinoid system to block pain signals and reduce joint inflammation. I’ve only used this as a treatment, not preventative but I thought to put this on the list. Make sure any CBD oil you buy is specifically for dogs so there is no trace of THC in it. Not all CBD products are made the same, and my own vet suggests that good quality oil is the most effective way to go.

    Egg shell membrane– My physiotherapist suggested I take NEM (Natural Eggshell Membrane) for my own knee issues so naturally, I looked into it for Whiskey. Since we eat eggs all the time, I just feed the membrane to her since it’s a “free” supplement. Egg shell membrane contains proteins such as collagen, but also chondroitin sulfate, and glucosamine so it’s basically an amazing addition to everything else I’m feeding. The easiest way to break the membrane from the egg (if your dog doesn’t eat eggshells) is to crack a bit of the shell at the top, and then use that crack to peel the membrane off.

    The last year Whiskey will be carrying a load

    Products we use/have used

    Some people start their dogs on joint supplements after 3 years old, some only when they see problems like stiff joints or limping after a big day. How much, how soon, you use these depend on your dog, your breed, financial ability and comfort. The availability of specific brands will depend on where you live and the quality of the brand is quite important so dig in a little and ask vets if they do NOT recommend a brand, or sport dog trainers that have tried several local options and can compare. Lastly keep in mind food allergies (specifically shellfish and beef) when choosing supplements.

    Nutramax Cosequin- It’s affordable (I buy this at Costco) and includes all the basics (glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate, MSM). Whiskey gets this daily

    Green-Lipped Mussels– These mussels are from New Zealand and are super tasty with fries, but also are join supplements with omega-3s, chondroitin and glycosaminoglycans. I buy a powder form and add it with Whiskey’s regular supplements on top of her raw food in the mornings.

    FeelGood Omega-3 – I trust this brand of supplements (I use others for both Whiskey and Bourbon) to have carefully researched ingredients for my dogs. I used to use salmon oil but then realized it wasn’t sustainable and higher levels of mercury. Calamari populations are increasing vs krill and fish. Both dogs get this daily!

    CBD– I honestly cannot remember the brand we used but it was recommended by my vet. There seems to be quite a difference in quality of the oils so definitely do your research and not just go with the cheapest one.

    Recovery– I’ve used this when Whiskey’s had a limp and it’s been recommended by most active senior dog owners I’ve met. I would use this as a treatment, not preventative. It includes MSM and glucosamine hydrochloride as the top ingredients.

    Pup Snax™ Daily Immune Plus Probiotic – I recently discovered this from Puppington and it works well as a daily chew for everything. It has Glucosamine, Chondroitin, Wild Alaskan Salmon Oil, Turmeric, and then a probiotic blend on top.

  • Why a Vizsla is the Wrong Dog Breed for You

    Why a Vizsla is the Wrong Dog Breed for You

    Vizsla’s aren’t the sort of dog that’s good for everyone, they aren’t the “best” family dog, nor the dog that fits into every situation. Contrary to my entire website and life, I find myself discouraging many people I talk to in the dog park from getting a Vizsla “because they’re so pretty what’s the breed?”. It’s totally false advertising when they see a calm Vizsla heeling at my side downtown, ignoring other dogs and squirrels and posing for the camera. I just happen to have an oddity, that I poured hundreds of hours into training, and that has been out hiking 4 times already this week. Bourbon’s a better example…except she’s either not visible on trails because she’s elsewhere, or she’s wrapping herself around the legs of a stranger all cute and noodley. They don’t see all the time, energy and money spent!

    Very pretty dogs, can work against them if they bought just for looks

    The Good Stuff

    The problem with Vizslas, is that upon appearance (if they are standing still enough to see, or by photographs on the internet) they look amazing. They’re gorgeous, short haired, don’t smell much, look sweet tempered, and a very reasonable size. A quick Google search will tell you Vizslas are gentle natured, loyal, friendly, versatile, and eager to please. So what’s not to like? Why are Vizslas not the next Labs or Golden Retrievers fit for any family?

    The (potentially) Bad Stuff

    Breeders get hundreds of emails a week during Covid…so it will be very hard to find a good one

    It’s hard to even buy a good one

    First off, Vizslas are prone to Epileptic seizures, skin allergies, cancers, and other disorders. It’s not more than the typical breed, but if you don’t find a reputable breeder that screens for these issues, you could have a sick dog. Finding breeders and getting a puppy (especially in less than 2 years) is extremely difficult and most people do not want to wait this long, or do so much homework, send so many emails and phone calls just to buy a dog. Going the less reputable direction can buy you a dog with a huge variety of issues that are screened by ethical breeders. I’ve seen this happen time and time again, and it’s so sad to see an early death, sick puppy, and dangerous behavioural issues.

    Goodbye Bourbon! After 8 days of continuous backcountry hiking, she was good to keep going!

    The energy level is not ideal for most

    Most people’s life does not allow for 2 hour walks outside, hunting, running their dog in an agility ring, or spending so much time centered around their dog. Between a job, kids, social engagements, travel, there are few people that would be ok walking their dog for hours outside, even when it’s raining, even in the winter, even after work in the dark. Vizslas are high energy dogs that love to use their brains, learn new things, and are extremely versatile in work they can do. The key is WORK. They love having a job, pleasing their human, and doing well at their jobs. It’s like the A+ student at the front of the class, hands up to answer every question, on speed. These dogs want to run, sniff, do things or they can be destructive when bored. They’re not ideal if you like a calm household, expect order, and your children aren’t the rough and tumble sort.

    Bird dogs want to hunt for birds and will hunt regardless of your own preferences
    Bourbon can become deaf if she’s chasing birds. She’ll run for hours until you can catch her!

    A hunting dog wants to hunt

    If you’re a hunter, wonderful! But if you don’t hunt and you get a hunting dog, please expect your dog to want to hunt things. If you’re not interested in a dog that sniffs out dead animals, stalks pigeons, and shakes with excitement at every squirrel in the park, then this can get frustrating. They’re bred to respond to hunt and find prey so this might not be ideal for lots of people. The ability can be aimed at work (sniff work for example) or you might take your dog out to hunt tests, but if you’d like your dog to walk on leash calmly on a hiking trail near a bird sanctuary…you have hundreds of hours of training to do.

    Vizslas love sitting on their humans, being with their humans and touching them

    Velcro is not an exaggeration- Separation anxiety

    Vizslas are known as Velcro dogs and although many of my own friends are dog lovers, they don’t really want a dog glued to them at all times. Some like to go to the bathroom alone, take a shower without someone checking up on them, and some others would like to work without a dog in their chair. It’s very typical for Vizslas to wake themselves up and follow you from room to room just be close to you. If “personal space” is something you treasure…this is not the right breed!

    To further the point, this breed needs humans to be close and if you’re not around much, can develop separation anxiety. They’re not an independent breed that will be fine without you. Leave a Vizsla outside in a backyard and you’ll see them staring at you on the other side of the glass door wanting you to be out there with them. A backyard will do you no good unless you’re having fun with them outside.

    Bourbon in no less than 3 layers for a 6 hour hike in the cold. I had to carry extra layers in case

    Short-haired and Climate

    Vizslas have very short hair and only one coat so if your climate is colder, the breed may not be ideal. These are indoor dogs, not outdoors and cannot survive in low temperatures like double-coated dogs. I constantly need to bring jackets, boots, and more if we are going for long 5+ hour adventures in weather that may not be ideal. They can hate the rain, and shiver miserably, and can have a hard time retrieving in icy cold waters, especially for a length of time.

    Boots and jackets are not needed for huskies in conditions like these

    Time and Energy needed

    More than most breeds, Vizslas are a bit like tiny humans in that they take TIME and ENERGY. They’ll give you back so much love, but you need to put in the time and energy first. They demand it, and you will see this under no uncertain terms. They’re very needy dogs, with lots of feelings and emotions and love to hear your voice. They love to be pampered with blankets and pillows and attention. Whiskey will interrupt me at work, insistently asking for me to just stare into her eyes and love on her. Bourbon will sit and whine until I tend to her emotional needs.

    Sensitive to a fault

    Have you ever met anyone that seemed to take things you said the wrong way? Maybe your tone of voice or wording and they were instantly hurt? There are some dogs that people can yell at and train pretty harshly without too much trauma but Vizslas can shut down quickly. Bourbon is quick to frighten and remembers every tiny thing forever. I’ve seen so many Vizslas scream and shake and cower after receiving a bump or nip from another dog where most dogs might recover in a couple seconds. I’ve had Vizslas limp over to me, totally distressed with a hanging paw and I’ve had to ‘pretend’ to look them over, kiss their limp paw and tell them they’re ok. And then off they run full speed and ‘recovered’.

    The sensitivity can also show up in food sensitivities or drama when not feeling well. Whiskey was SUCH a picky eater with tummy problems when she was younger. When she got giardia (diarrhea and vomiting) and I brought her to the vet and because she was being so dramatic the vet thought she was much worse than she actually was. Her heartbeat was too slow, she was shaking (emotional) and hiding underneath my chair in a ball. There’s alot of managing emotions that might not be as big an issue with other dogs.

    Stamina and speed

    Vizslas were bred to run fast, and run long. They can keep up with horseback and go all day. Perhaps you don’t want a dog that recovers from a 25km run in a couple hours, or a puppy that just *never* goes to sleep. There were so many times I would drive out 2 hours for a hike, hike 6 hours, and drive back. By the time I got home, Whiskey was ready to go again, and I still hadn’t unpacked my hiking bag! Stamina is amazing, but it might not be what you want in a dog. These are the dogs you bring to a dog park and they run one dog after another until the entire park is exhausted and lying down…except your Vizsla is now ready for a one hour game of fetch.

  • Solutions to cold dog paws in the Winter

    Solutions to cold dog paws in the Winter

    Dog Winter Boots Reviews and options(updated)

    I’ve been using and trying boots on our girls for years and wanted to share an updated revision of my last review here. Many of the older boots are no longer in production but you can still get them used and there are very similar copies out there with the same benefits and issues. I’ve grouped the boots into categories that I’ve made notes on. Please let me know what you think! These are based soley on my opinion and nothing more. My girls do not have dewclaws, and are short-haired Vizslas.

    Dewclaws/ Small paws

    One of the biggest hurdles to booties are dewclaws or if your dog has small paws (in relation to ankles) and the boots slip off easily. Even though my girls do not have these issues, this is the advice I’ve seen works. Dewclaws rub on straps, edges of boots and over time they can bleed and make boots very painful. Some boots have straps in better locations (you need to try them) but even without a strap, the inward pressure on the dewclaw and material rubbing can be painful.

    If you notice this happening, use Vet Wrap (any brand will do, same used for humans) which is a self adhesive wrap under and then over the dewclaw. Do not wrap too tightly so it cuts off circulation or too loosely that it will move. It’s to prevent the dewclaw from moving too much. Then either put the boot over it, or use a sock on top.

    Socks are another layer of protection for dewclaws, or dogs with paws that are too slim so boots slip off. Either with or without the vet wrap, slide the boot on, and secure with vet wrap or medical tape. Then slip the boots on top. You will need to experiment to see what works best for each circumstance.

    Classic

    These boots are the classic ones I see. They tend to have a soft material on the top, and a rubber sole on the bottom with a strap around the ankle. No matter what anyone says, they are not waterproof, but they’re ok with packed wetter snow. The ankle strap can be very difficult with dewclaws and if you don’t use a sock, they can have a hard time staying on if your dog runs around off leash. A trick is to twist the boot both ways a little bit (clockwise and anticlockwse about a quarter twist) before tightening the strap.

    Ruffwear Polar Trex -Thick soles with gaiters. Good idea but Whiskey didn’t like these. She couldn’t feel the ground and the gaiters took up and kept snow inside.

    Canine Equipment Ultimate Trail Boots -4 different boots, L/R back sized smaller than front. Discontinued, longer review here. I liked these boots for the thinner soles, easy to put on straps and warranty that my friends had tried. Unfortunately some of the older boots I had purchased had started wearing on the top and the material split disintegrating to pieces. I’m still using whatever is left however.

    Hurtta Dog boots – We used these until they broke. The fabric on the middle/center of the heel wore through and made holes. Whiskey didn’t mind these and they stayed on if you pulled the strap tightly and then wove it back through the strap in the front. Otherwise they would come off. A new version is supposed to be coming soon.

    Expawlorer Amazon dog boots -All these Amazon boots look like they’re made in the same factory with different names. They seem decent for the low price, ok for dogs without dewclaws walking on leash in packed snow or the city. Depending on your dog’s paws they may stay on for play, or they may not!

    EXY&G Amazon Dog Boots

    QUMY Amazon Dog Boots

    XSY&G Dog Boots

    Old pair of Hurtta boots. The weak point was the velcro and where the boot joined the sole

    Musher’s

    This type of boot is what we used on mushing dogs while dogsledding in the Yukon a decade ago. They’re very cheap, easy to put on and off, and are thin so the dogs can feel the ground. You won’t be too frustrated if you loose a couple of these but they won’t last as the fabric does wear out. These boots are good for packed snow on trails, nothing wet (or they will freeze), when you just want to keep the ice out. They’re also a very easy beginner boot if your dog is fussy about the thick soled ones with thick straps

    Dog Booties -the simpliest version.

    after 2.5 hours in the snow, you can see the ice building

    Non-stop Dog Wear -my current favorite for cross country skiing. Even in -20 degrees on a packed trail my girls have not complained and are happy to run. They will not protect as much from direct cold as a thicker sole and does collect ice around the ankles after a couple hours.

    Higher boots

    There are all higher up the leg than some of the short boots. This can be better or worse for dogs with dewclaws depending on the location of the straps. It’s better for trails where the dogs need just a bit more length so snow doesn’t fill in, but can be worse if the snow does fill in and collects to make ice balls.

    Muttluks– I like Muttluks as an emergency bootie but the straps aren’t great so I duct tape them to Bourbon’s paws. They’re also all the same size so looser fit.

    Voyager K9 Apparel– the highest boot and better for shorter walks, not major hiking

    Canada Pooch

    Neoprene Options

    Great because snow does not stick to Neoprene and even when wet, Neoprene will hold in heat (it’s what wetsuits are made out of to keep people warm in the water). Not great because it’s very thick material and if your dog needs the feel the ground or any kind of technical surface they will probably not like it (Whiskey struggled).

    Neopaws – a huge variety of sizes and orthopedic options, but very thick sole

    GF Pet Elasto-fit Boots

    Gaiters

    For snow that’s a bit higher but NOT deep snow. Gaiters will fill with deep snow if there isn’t a seal on the boots and snow will just fill in and collect with no way out (we’ve experienced this and took them off in deep snow). Otherwise it’s great because you can’t lose the boots. They’re complicated to put on, but I used them on both dogs without issues or complaints. Backcountry Paws seems to be constantly out of stock, but I would recommend them if they were possible to order. Contrary to what you might think, I would recommend them for more packed trails so snow won’t get in, or for dogs that won’t go swimming in deep snow.

    Backcountry Paws Gaiters

    Walkee Paws Leggings

    Others

    Here’s some other options.

    Dog Mocs

    paw Pup Wax – use after out for a long time or exposure to salt

    Musher’s wax -works if your dog isn’t cold but gets ice balls around the long hairs between their paws (first would be to cut them shorter). They also do protect for a couple degrees difference (say if your dog needs boots at -5 degrees this might help make a 4 degree difference) and against salt but it does wear off. It it on right before you get out of the car when it’s slightly warmer as I’ve had a harder time when the wax is frozen.

  • Easy Gift Ideas for the Vizsla Lover

    Red Bark Shop– I cannot skip past my store with shirts, hoodies, hats, stickers, and more!

    Lucky Dog Coffee – Coffee subscriptions (Canadian) that support Vizsla rescue. We love the mugs and dog treats as well

    Donation to a Vizsla Rescue, or dog rescue close to home- Vizslamentes does great work for example

    Vizsla Cookie Cutter -for the baker and Vizsla lover

    Ice cube tray– For making frozen treats to add to any fancy pup’s meals

    Inkopious Hoodie -Good quality hoodies with a Vizsla nod

    Custom face stickers – For the type that likes to see their dog on their mug, their cell, their laptop…

    Qalo custom dog tags -Custom tags with loads of options, soft to the touch

    Hasta La Vizsla Shirt – A twist on a Vizsla shirt

    Pup Wax -Luxurious Skincare for dogs

    Custom Pet slippers, plushies -creepy, but loads of ideas here for the right type of person!

    Personalized modern Poster – Modern art personalized with your pups name

    Anna Tölgyesi Bronze Sculptures -if you have $$$, these sculptures are second to none

    Little Felted Frends – mini felted sculptures matching your pup

    Chews– Link to loads of Chew options for dogs