The Dog Walks Me

Category: Indoors

  • Raw Dog Feeding- Affordable, Details, our Vancouver sources, and supplements

    Raw Dog Feeding- Affordable, Details, our Vancouver sources, and supplements

    1. Whiskey
    2. Bourbon
    3. Feeding details
    4. Proteins
    5. Extras
    6. Supplements
    7. Meal Bones
    8. Sample Meal
    9. Travel and Training
    10. Amount
    11. Benefits and Downsides
    12. Risks
    13. Switching
    14. Digestive Issues
    15. Sources

    Whiskey’s tummy

    When I first brought Whiskey home, she was eating kibble and for some reason, kibble just didn’t really make “sense” to me. I avoid highly processed food in general because it just doesn’t make me feel so good, and I wanted to feed Whiskey something I understood and felt good about. To me, food should look like food, and I started cooking for her and trying different menu options. I wasn’t against kibble sometimes, but I just felt that since I wouldn’t like to eat nutrition bars all my life (but hey once in awhile is fine), I wanted to try and feed more fresh foods to my growing puppy.

    After a couple weeks it just became very time consuming and I was getting anxious about balancing all the required nutrients. It’s very hard to know how much calcium you’re feeding for example, and although Whiskey LOVED the cooked meals, it just wasn’t a practical long term solution. At that point she ate more food than I did, and I was making a huge batch of slow-cooked food every other day and grocery shopping just took too much money and time.

    Raw meat mix with leftover veges I had in the fridge

    Soon after I shifted her onto raw food, but it took me 1 year to figure out what Whiskey did best on, and where best to buy from. Whiskey was very picky with food, and she had multiple issues with Guardia and diarrhea, vomiting, and other illnesses in the beginning so it took awhile to find our rhythm. In the end, I found out that Whiskey likes semi-frozen meals, and doesn’t like chicken, gamey bird meats (like Quail and duck), but is ok with Turkey. When I say she doesn’t “like”, she’s not intolerant, she just refuses to eat it, and will pick at her food for weeks if I try to out-stubborn her and would get way too skinny. Whiskey seems to do well on lean meats like Turkey, Lamb, Pork, and Elk (we had a scare where we thought she might have had Pancreatitis), and is very sensitive to greasy foods (much more sensitive than Bourbon for example). Every dog is different and it’s really good to find out what works for your dog (like people!).

    Nutrience pre-mix with raw elk, canned pumpkin leftover rice, and raw egg

    Bourbon’s appetite

    Bourbon also came kibble-fed and I was able to switch her over to raw within one meal several days after she settled into our home. She had no tummy problems and eats really well. Bourbon eats meats well but is oddly picky with new foods like vegetables and fruits. While Whiskey will beg for orange slices and strawberries, Bourbon won’t touch them. Each dog is different! Bourbon’s done well with every protein we’ve thrown at her. The only thing I have to keep in mind is to slowly increase her large “bone meals” (meaty bones as a meal) or she’ll be overwhelmed with a bone too large! Bourbon loves fish, even whole fish, while Whiskey will only eat small chopped up fish.

    What a typical block of frozen dog meat looks like. 10% bone, 5% liver, 5% kidney/spleen 80% muscle meat

    Vet opposition

    Most traditional vets are opposed to the raw diet for a variety of reasons. Most studies about dog food are done and funded by large dog food companies and there is very little financial incentive to study the benefits to raw so first off there’s little evidence to back raw food as being an healthier alternative. Raw food manufacturers are new and small (and tend to be local because raw is harder to ship) and don’t have the resources to fund these studies.

    Also because raw diets vary so much, vets can be scared of the possibility of nutritional imbalances. There are definitely some people that aren’t going to do the research or even know that this is something you need to do. If you feed only hamburger meat and eggshells, your dog is going to be sick, so you’ll need to do a minimal amount of research or purchase a pre-mixed raw. At the least a dog needs muscle meat, organ (lots of minerals and vitamins in organs), and bone. Last, the risk of meat-borne bacteria. While there is always a risk of handing raw meat, it’s not more so than any meat that you eat (we buy all human grade meat for our dogs). Vets don’t want to take on the extra liability if they recommend a raw diet.

    We’ve worked with vets that oppose or support our raw feeding but once they see how healthy our dogs are, their teeth, coat, and demeanor, I haven’t been given too much grief. I’ve found over time they’re more supportive or at least there’s less opposition.

    Daily feeding raw, the details

    Semi-frozen seems like the best texture for most dogs. Some will eat fully frozen, and most that I know aren’t crazy about fully defrost soft mushy raw blend. For meaty bones, Whiskey didn’t’ want to work for her meal, so I would sear the sides of the turkey neck or lamb neck to get her “into it”. I also taught the dogs to eat on a mat for easy indoor cleanup. I feed my cat the same meat as my dogs, I just add extra taurine into the food for her (in the form of hearts).

    Everyday I defrost the next day’s meat and feed the meal I put in the day earlier so its’ semi defrosted in the fridge. We have a deep freezer (even in the apartment we bought a deep freezer) so we can get about 120 lbs of meat at a time to keep costs and shopping less. We use THESE containers and put a couple blocks in. Whiskey eats about 1.5lbs and Bourbon (currently 8 months) eats about 2lbs. I use a fork to break up the semi-frozen blocks into a bowl, add any extras, and feed. It takes approx. 2 mins to prepare. We use a sanitizing wipe or spray on the mats after they’ve eaten and that’s about it. I’m extra cautious about tripe and I’m always in the room with the girls while they eat. I like to prevent any guarding issues with eating (all 3 are fed at the same time), and if we’re feeding bones, I’m also there to encourage them to stay on the mat. They also eat better and are less insecure if I’m there. If one finishes much faster, I’m also there to remove a temptation for one to go after another’s meal.

    a 40lb box of bulk raw meat, straight into the deep freezer, we get 3 at a time

    Proteins we feed

    I usually buy my food in bulk 40lb boxes of a single protein although sometimes I might get patties, or pre-mixes to make my life easier (or if someone is pet-sitting I want their lives to be easy!). Most mixes we use are around 80% muscle meat, 10% organ and 10% bone.

    Beef -local, but higher fat, prefer elk but harder to find
    Turkey- our go to protein, lean and easier to digest than chicken
    Pork- lean, we use rarely but I do like to mix in different protein, there is a blanket warning about feeding raw pork because of larvae of Trichinella spiralis (a parasite), however this is not an issue in Canada
    Elk- Low in fat, we love elk but hard to find and more expensive
    Fish- whole fish from Asian food markets, or fish byproduct from our local fish shop (odds and ends that don’t make it to human products), please note to freeze wild caught salmon or any hunted meats for 3 weeks before feeding to avoid parasites

    Nutrience Raw or other pre-mix- just feed packets and done! includes supplements, veg, variety meat mixed already

    Make sure the premix has muscle meat, bone, and organ, if not, then make sure you add some. You don’t need to add it in equally every meal, just overall. For instance some premix doesn’t have bone because it’s hard to grind up beef bones. I might feed 3 meals of beef without bone (2 meals a day) and then feed one meal of meaty bone. If I don’t add veg to one meal, I might add extra to another. You’re aiming for variety overall, not variety in every meal.

    raw turkey with sardines, egg, and Dr Dobias supplements

    Extras

    lamb neck- Whiskey’s favorite, a good treat I can’t always afford, Whiskey prefers it seared (roll eyes here)
    chicken carcass- Moo and Bourbon, best to start puppies from
    chicken/turkey hearts- for Moo (I feed her dog meat mix and add extra hearts for taurine)
    turkey/duck neck- Bourbon loves, Whiskey doesn’t seem to digest these well anymore (although turkey meat is ok)
    green tripe- Amazing for both dogs, I try to find whole pieces, not ground down (cheaper and less processed), super smelly but healthy if you can deal with the smell (not for the newly initiated into raw feeding!)
    pumpkin (canned)/ steamed yams
    steamed veges, chopped spinach,
    chicken egg/quail egg
    berries
    leftovers (nothing greasy, toxic, saucy)

    Supplements I use, I don’t really need to but I feel better!

    Supplements

    I use GreenMin, Soulfood from Dr Dobias (I use about a 1/3 of the recommended amount a day)
    Fish/sardines/krill oil for omega 3s
    Turmeric as an inflammatory (after high impact activity, or any swelling)
    Green lipped mussel for joints
    Kiefer for probiotics
    Gutsense (after vomiting or diarrhea or antibiotic use)

    Nutrience Raw mix with kiefer, turkey neck for Bourbon, lamb neck for Whiskey, and pumpkin

    Meal bones

    We feed meal bones 1-3 times a week. This is to help clean their teeth, and when I just need a break because it can take up to an hour for Whiskey to break down a piece of lamb neck. Chewing on a meaty bone takes brain power and it’s something they both enjoy and get tired doing. It’s the perfect rainy day activity.

    See this as an opportunity to vary your usual proteins, and size depending on your dog’s chewing ability. Start with smaller bones with a puppy or cats, like chicken carcass, and duck neck. My cat can break down turkey necks but she’s a bit…crazy. Start young and with boney pieces like chicken backs or turkey necks in sections (chop them up). If your dog is just licking the the meat if they are playing with it too much and cut into the meat so there’s more to work with. Whiskey also preferred her meat seared (I’m serious, she was that picky but then she would eat it). Don’t try cartilage until you know your dog is really into bones. Whiskey hates the texture.

    If you can feed outdoors that’s ideal but we have to feed indoors so we’ve taught the dogs to eat on a mat. Look around for a butcher than might keep you some cuts for cheap. Avoid weight bearing bones on large animals if your dog is a big chewer (they might crack teeth) and never feed cooked bones, especially small birds because cooked bones are brittle and can break and puncture intestines. If your dog does eat some by mistake, just keep an eye out for any signs of issues.

    Sample meal

    I just wash my hands after handling raw meat, I use food storage containers to defrost daily

    I typically don’t spend too much effort making a fancy meal for my dog but sometimes I’ll have extras. The base for most meals is just the block of meat I buy in bulk. Here’s an example of how much effort I put in myself, although I see many dog parents that make the most Instagram worthy meals for their pups!

    Simple meal (50%): 1 bock of meat half defrosted

    Regular meal (35%): 1 block of meat, some veg, supplements

    Fancy meal (10%): 1 block of meat, quail egg, fish, veg, tablespoon kiefer, supplements, berries from garden

    Bone Meal (10%): 1 piece of meaty bone

    Travel and Training with Raw

    For travel I’ll usually bring a couple blocks of meat for the first couple days and put them in the hotel fridge or an ice box. Pre-mixes are easiest at this point and sometimes the pre-packed packaging really helps in an ice box. If we are going into the backcountry our somewhere without a fridge I’ll start bringing freeze dried raw. There’s many different options on the market and in most cases you do get what you pay for. Try feeding the freeze dried as treats or food topper before going on the trip to make sure your dog will eat it happily first. I’ve found some cheaper brands will show in loose stools, but we’ve had the best luck with Open Farm’s freeze dried raw. Our dogs love it so much I use it as training treats and meal supplements while training Bourbon as a puppy. Also if your dog has also done well with kibble I don’t see harm in switching to kibble for travelling either as long as stools show no change and your dog seems to be doing well. Of course like always, I’m not an expert and just speaking from my own personal experience.

    Amount to feed

    Feed the dog in front of you. Start with an amount. If your dog is skinny, double it until your dog looks good, then reduce the amount until your dog looks healthy. If your dog is too big, halve the amount until your dog looks good, then find the amount in-between that keeps your dog at that weight. Don’t move up and down in small amounts. Watch their poop, bugs? loose? tight? it will tell you lots!

    Our costs are around 2-3$/lbs (Canadian dollars) in bulk 40lbs box. 53lbs Whiskey eats about 1.5lbs a day (3% of body weight but very active dog) and 41lbs Bourbon eats about 2lbs (5% of body weight at 8 months). They get extra on days we are doing big hikes, and maybe less if we’re not doing too much (although that’s rare because Bourbon doesn’t really allow that scenario).

    Puppy *first month home- 8-10%
    Growing puppy- 6-8%
    Teenager puppy- 4-6%
    1-2 yrs- 3-4%
    adult 2-3%
    active adult- 3%
    senior/less active/overweight adult – 1.5%

    On the top was my dinner, on the bottom, Whiskey’s dinner, this makes more sense to me than kibble

    What are the benefits to feeding raw

    -you know exactly what you are feeding, easier to control for allergies
    -not processed
    -local sources
    -control over ingredients (more fat, less fat, more meat, less pumpkin)
    -fresh food, easily digestible
    -less gas, less stinky breath, less poop (more food used, less poop wastage)
    -no preservatives
    -no fillers needed to make kibble
    -clean teeth (bones and no fillers/carbs)
    -less “doggie” odour
    -less shedding, softer shiner coat
    -more energy, better immune system

    Downsides to feeding raw

    -tends to be more expensive
    -gross compared to kibble
    -need to have organization and defrost, etc
    -more washing, more hassle
    -limited usage (ie compared to kibble best before date)
    -harder to source
    -need travelling options
    -can worry if old/young/immune compromised
    -need freezer space

    raw meat, roasted pumpkin, kefir, supplements

    What are the risks and how do we mitigate them?

    If there’s young children or very old family members that may be immune compromised, keep surfaces clean and don’t use the same bowl for humans and dogs. Use the same precautious handing any kind of meat as with the dog food. Avoid kisses right after eating. Don’t keep food too long defrosted, we’ve rarely had this issue, but I’ve refrozen the food (sometimes even for an hour or two) if I think we might be going on a camping trip. Remember humans are more at risk than dogs to things like e-coli, dogs eat loads of unsavory things and don’t get sick and their stomachs are better adjusted to eating raw meat than ours are.

    Switching diets to raw

    This really depends on the dog that is transitioning and can be easy or hard. With Whiskey it took months going from kibble to cooked to raw. Kibble to cooked food is really easy, and from cooked to raw, it took a longer time. I was new to raw feeding and was trying many sources and things. I also didn’t know that half frozen is ideal for texture! Whiskey is so picky with her food and since she was the only dog eating, there was no sense of competition (she ate better when we petsitted another dog).

    Bourbon just switched outright and never looked back. Some dogs are able to eat one meal kibble, one meal raw without issues, others cannot. Slow cooked food is the easiest to digest so use that for transitioning if you have a sensitive tummy. Start with a raw meal after 12-24 hours of a kibble one, start with a smaller amount, maybe with some pumpkin. If your dog doesn’t like half-frozen, try a room temperature meal but make sure you don’t leave the food out very long.

    Moo’s food is at the bottom. She gets the same raw and a chicken heart (for taurine)

    Digestive issues

    If your dog gets sick or has stomach issues after switching, watch their poop. As soon as Whiskey or Bourbon gets diarrhea or vomits more than once, I switch straight to slow cooked turkey, white rice, and pumpkin (or carrots). I also use Gutsense from Dr Dobias (probiotics specifically for dogs). I used to use another brand but once I looked up the ingredients I was really disgusted and found Gutsense. I keep feeding until the poop looks good for a couple days, then slowly transition back to raw. I basically just throw everything into a slowcooker and make a massive amount of congee (Chinese rice soup). Giardia is pretty prevalent where I live and after I learned to do this we haven’t had to go to the vet over any stomach issues since they clear up themselves.

    BC Sources we have tried and used and recommend

    RainCity meats $ (delivery) email muttleycrewadventures@gmail.com for details
    Beltrame meats $
    B&T Raw $
    In the Raw $$
    Nutrience Subzero Raw (Petsmart) $$$
    True Carnivores $$ (delivery)
    Open Farm (Discount Code Whiskey10) $$$
    Supplements from Dr Dobias $$

  • Benefits to Waiting to Crate Train a New Puppy

    Benefits to Waiting to Crate Train a New Puppy

    Just a little note that I’m not a trainer, a professional in any way, this just just my opinion.

    Puppy Whiskey in her crate

    Everything I read about crate training 7 years ago told me to start crate training right away, from the day we brought out puppy home. Boy, I wish I had waited because it was easily the worst part of Whiskey’s puppyhood and we weren’t at our best when sleep deprived. With our new puppy Bourbon 6 years later, I couldn’t believe how easily we transitioned. The key was waiting.

    Whiskey- by the book

    We crate trained Whiskey from the first day we got her. It was in all the books, all the advice I could find and since we were in an apartment and both worked full time, I was anxious to make sure she was crate trained while we were both at work (for her own safety as well as our home). The first night that I popped her in the crate, was the first day we brought her home, away from her littermates, over a long flight from Quebec into this strange new place.

    Whiskey cried and cried. She hated it. We stuck to the training plan, took her in and out of her crate 3 times a night when she cried, not sleeping for the first month. We had throw on close, run down to the main floor of our apartment (we lived on the second floor) holding her at 3am, with a leash and treats, to wait for her to potty, then back up into her crate, and back in bed. It was torturous and was hands down the worst part of puppyhood for us.

    Crate training Whiskey was such a pain

    Because of my research, I had thought to make sure Whiskey’s crate was den-sized. Not too big or she might pee in a corner is what the research showed. My poor girl was so miserable. We played crate games, we let her sleep during the day in her crate, we covered it up with blankets and played calming music. We put all her toys in there and fed her inside (she didn’t like to eat so it wasn’t’ helpful). I put in warmed toys, I slept outside her crate singing to her with my fingers through the bars.

    Eventually after what seemed like forever (probably a couple of months) Whiskey would sleep through the night and we developed a routine. We also switched to the largest crate we could find and she was SO much happier. Whiskey NEVER went into her crate voluntarily during the day (and still to this day doesn’t). We left her in her crate when we went to work in the mornings and had a dog walker come take her out mid day. By 6 months of age she was left in the bedroom (only one accident ever) and a couple months later she had the run of the house during the day (Whiskey’s never ruined anything).

    Whiskey totally preferred the bed (and still does)

    Our experience with crating was so opposite others we had talked to, as well as my readings. Whiskey didn’t like a den, she liked the couch or bed. She was a confident dog and she’s never felt the need to “hide” from scary sounds or things and although we finally agreed on her crate as her bed to sleep in at night, she would still crawl in our bed if we forgot to lock the door (or if we travelled).

    Bourbon- second time’s a charm!

    Bourbon was allowed on the bed

    When I got Bourbon, I was alone and so exhausted from travelling I just didn’t have the energy to deal with a screaming puppy all night long. I had a large crate with me in the room that I filled with blankets and toys, but let Bourbon crawl into bed around my neck and fall asleep.

    Having seen Bourbon with her littermates in a warm puppy pile, and having just experienced her screaming her little brains out on the plane in a tiny carrier, I just couldn’t imagine she would be ok sleeping in another cold crate. Surprising (to me) Bourbon slept in bed with me for 7 HOURS the first night. At 8 weeks old! And when she woke up, she woke slowly and because I could feel her waking, I could slowly wake myself up. I didn’t have to jump up and throw on clothes in a rush. I had an extra 3 mins to become conscious, and cradle Bourbon, carrying her outside for a pee. It was AMAZING.

    For the next month I slept with Bourbon. She was introduced to the small plastic crate for nap times during the day and accepted about an hour inside. Every evening I would put her into her crate with the door open, and she would crawl into bed with me (we were quarantining for the first 2 weeks and roadtripping for a week more) and she would slowly wake me when she need to pee. On average Bourbon would be able to hold it 6-7 hours at a time.

    When we finally transitioned to a larger plastic crate a full month later, we put the entire gigantic crate in the bed between us (sorry no pictures but it was like this. Bourbon predictably screamed for the first 2 days (about 2 hours each) and then fell asleep. On the 3rd day it was about 20mins so crying, and on the 4th day maybe just 5. After that, we put the crate on the floor, and then after 3 months finally she was moved to her permanent crate. We had a regression of about an hour less of sleep when first moving her to the crate (because the screaming and crying and anxiety took so much out of her) so she would average 5-6 hours at a time compared to 6-7 in bed.

    Because Bourbon loved sleeping in her Snoozer cave bed, we put one inside her permanent crate.

    Vizslas have a habit of moving and taking up the entire bed so my husband has vetoed dogs sleeping in beds a long while ago. Bourbon’s also got a knack for face and throat punching but we still let her in to cuddle at night before bed, and in the morning before we wake.

    In Summary

    I really suggest sleeping with your puppy for the first week or two before transitioning to a crate. This is assuming your breeder hasn’t had the puppies already sleeping in separate crates (crate training) before you get them. I believe because they’re less anxious they can hold their bladder longer, giving everyone more sleep (and sanity) and it’ll be a more gentle wake up call instead of a scream and rush out. It’s less traumatizing moving from warm puppy piles and everything they’ve known.

    Then if possible, sleep with the crate in bed and slowly move the crate to the location you prefer. It’s best if the crate is in your room, facing you so your pup can see you and you have quick and easy access and can hear them if they need to wake up at night to go. This might not be possible for everyone, but I found the whole experience (probably the one I was dreading the most) really lovely and got to bond with Bourbon in a way I really wish I could have had with Whiskey.

    The girls in their homemade crate that Thierry put together.

    Crate tips

    Also, there’s quite a bit of advice to size your crate to your dog and only put an old towel there, but I’ve found both my girls like large spacious crates (the plastic ones are much preferred to the wired ones) with soft beds. There be concern that they’ll rip up the beds, or soil a larger crate but I just never experienced this and I stayed in the room while crate training. Bourbon had to be shown what to chew on, and given chews/toys but she’s never had the chance to tear into a bed. The longest we have crated her is 2 hours at a time currently.

    I also monitor their crate times really closely especially the first weeks (and start with short stints) and only put them in after activity and when you think they should be tired (or bedtime). I do find playing the same soft music helps, and covering the crate with a blanket so they cannot see also helps. Lastly, pay attention to your puppy and see what they gravitate to, what makes them comfortable at home. For Bourbon it was the cavebed so we put that in her crate and she’s happier to sleep there at night.

    Links

    Puppy crate (borrow or find a used one for the first month)

    Full sized crate (4 months and older, although Whiskey prefers 1 size up)

    Self-built Dog Kennel

    Our Puppy Amazon Storefront

  • 10 Unusual and Practical Pieces of Dog Gear

    10 Unusual and Practical Pieces of Dog Gear

    Do you love getting out and adventuring with your dog but you just wish there was that one piece of gear to make it all easier? Perhaps your dog is slightly injured, has allergies, or keeps building up ice on their boots? Here’s a list of specialized dog gear that you might find useful!

    dog paw wax

    Musher’s Secret: Use paw wax in place of winter booties. Originally designed for sledding dogs, this wax can help prevent snowballing, salt, ice build-up, hot sand and pavement. I do find the wax wears off during a walk or hike so you’ll need several applications over the day but it’s a great option to booties.

    Downpour Hurtta suit jacket with integrated bug repellant in it worn by Bodhi the Ridgeback in Assiniboine Park
    Bodhi wearing the downpour suit with integrated bug repellant

    Sun and Bug Blocker Hurtta: A bodysuit with UPF 40 and bug repellent built in! Great if your dog loves to camp but is severely allergic to mosquitoes, ticks or horseflies. Or perhaps your dog has recent surgery and needs to stay out of the sun! There are also vests and a Downpour suit that has permethrin imbedded in it should you need a warmer or other option.

    Whyld river sleeping bag made for dogs, super flexible and warm for winter
    Whiskey in her Whyld River sleeping bag

    Whyld River Sleeping Bag: A sleeping bag designed to separate, clip in, or permanently toggle each section for maximum flexibility. The snaps will pop off if your dog wants out, but if you want to keep it closed even if your dog moves, use the toggles. We helped design this bag and love and use it! Discount code: WHISKEY10

    Neopaws boots come in orthopedic options for dogs made out of neoprene
    Neopaws Boots with loads of sizes made of neoprene

    Neopaws Orthopedic Boots: orthopedic winter boots with support that are made out of Neoprene, good even for water use! You can even buy insoles to adjust the height of each boot so you can take your older pup out for walks without pain.

    Neopaws Gaiters: Dog gaiters/boot covers to prevent snow/ice buildup on dog boots.

    Dog gaiters from backcountry paws with boots attached
    Dog gaiters with boots attached

    Backcountry Paws Gaiters: Dog gaiters with boots attached.
    We love these and use them all the time under a jacket because there’s no more chances of losing a boot! A little complicated to put on but well worth not having to worry about and search for a lost bootie.

    Ruffwear Doubleback Harness: a Belay specialized harness for climbing and repelling.
    This full body dog lifting harness is for crag dogs that love to follow their owners everywhere. It’s the only harness I’ve seen that has the back leg loops and specifically made for climbing.

    Ear Pro: Dog hearing ear protection
    Designed for working military dogs, these are great for noise sensitive pups, or dogs living in and working in loud environments to help prevent hearing loss.

    Whiskey Vizsla wearing Rex specs goggles or doggles in the snowy mountains
    Rex Specs googles

    Rex Specs: Dog eye protection
    We love these goggles to protect eyes from high winds (on a motorcycle), extreme cold, hunting in bush, eye injuries, sun glare, and other medical needs. With 5 sizes the goggles cover most sizes and look awesome.

    No Flap Ear Wrap: Dog ear injury protection
    Dog ear injuries take forever to heal and can bloody your walls quickly. Keep your dog’s ear protected and dry with this Ear Wrap.

    Click here for the Winter dog gear blogpost

    Click here for the Winter Dog Boot post

  • Oru Beach Kayak: The Best Portable Kayak for Dogs

    Oru Beach Kayak: The Best Portable Kayak for Dogs

    Support me and Save $75 off with code WHISKEY

    When Oru kayaks first came out they were gamechangers. At only 30lbs you could fold them up and walk or hike them into previously unkayak-able places. They were easier to store in apartments and possible to transport in cars without a rack. And…they are beautiful! I’ve owned my Beach kayak for over 2 years and have really tested its limits. Recently we added the Bay kayak which is a quicker boat, a bit better for all those ocean trips as well snappy maneuvering for photography.

    The most peaceful morning
    1. Oru Basics
    2. Beach vs Bay models
    3. Adding Dogs
    4. Comparing Oru to other options on the market
    5. How to Introduce Dogs to a Kayak
    6. Accessories
    7. Testing the Beach Oru
    8. Pros and Cons

    The Oru Basics

    There are now 5 different models from their tiny Inlet 20lb model easily brought on a bus, to a tandem model capable of carrying a 500lb load. The kayaks are all origami-style foldable made out of a corrugated plastic rated for 20,000 folds and tough enough to easily survive rocks to dog nails. Reportedly smaller things like the neoprene caps, buckles, and rods will wear down before the polypropylene has issues and I feel really confident on the toughness of these boats. They’re made in the USA and range from $899-$2199 and can be used from rugged expeditions to your neighbourhood lake.

    Beach Oru Kayak Assembly

    I own two versions, the original, the Bay, and the most popular, the Beach. Both are around 28lbs, something I can easily carry with their backpacks (additional accessory) on a flat walk. I’ll concentrate on these two models and my thoughts and experience with them here.

    The Bay Kayak

    Beach vs Bay Oru

    The Bay is 28lbs vs 26lbs for the Beach, not really a significant difference, however keep in mind the Bay is also $300USD more. Packed up they’re around the same size. Construction of the Beach is quicker, the website says 5 vs 10mins which I find to be pretty accurate if you’re not very familiar with the boat.

    Two foldable Oru Kayaks with dogs in the Canadian Rockies Emerald Lake
    Whiskey in the Beach and Bourbon in the Bay Oru Kayaks
    Thierry putting the Bay Kayak together

    I’ve got the Beach down to about 3 mins if I don’t have a dog on my back but either way, it’s quick and easy once you practice a couple times. The hardest part of putting the Beach together is the tension rod (tip: put the boat on it’s side) and I do find it a bit more difficult to line up the zipper channels on the Bay. As the boat is used over several trips, the folds become less stiff and it actually does get easier to put the boat together. Disassembly is much more intuitive and quicker (about half the time of set-up). I’d really suggest that you dry the boat and break down away from sand to keep your car clean!

    Oru Beach Kayak has so much space on board
    Whiskey showing how much space there is in the Beach Oru
    Bourbon and I are sharing the Bay Oru

    In the water, the Beach is much more wider and open. This means it’s more stable, holds more things and dogs easily accessible, and wetter. In contrast the Bay is much tighter to get in and out, faster on the water, quicker to turn and more nimble, and much better in waves or wind with a dryer experience. Make sure you put together and take apart you kayak at home before you head to the beach. The videos online are very helpful and it can seem complex and the folds very stiff so it was really helpful to at least try once at home with no pressure.

    Man putting an oru foldable kayak together

    What About Adding Dogs into the Equation?

    For dog use, the Bay would not be able to fit a dog with a larger 6 foot person. I was able to fit a puppy Bourbon with me in the Bay so a small dog would be fine with a smaller person, but I would not suggest the Bay as the most dog friendly option. On the other hand, the Beach Oru model can fit about 2 Vizslas and maybe 2 smaller dogs in total with a smaller person (300lbs max) but make sure everyone’s friends! With two Vizslas (50lbs each) I can still fit more as well as my camera and a bag.

    Comparing Oru with other options on the market

    These boats are called sit-in kayaks vs sit-on kayaks. There is usually only the sit-on versions that can you easily load up dogs with enough space so the Beach Kayak is amazing for staying relatively dry and staying a bit more out of the elements than a sit-on kayak (almost like a paddleboard). I believe the two kayaks are lighter than any blow up options I’m aware of, and you don’t need to inflate them making for less packing and unpacking trouble. I find blow up options also have much less space for gear and dogs, and the sit-on kayaks I just don’t feel safe except on very calm water and there’s nowhere to protect my camera if the wind picks up. The sit-in kayaks also encourage dogs to stay “inside” the boat vs dangling a body part out and slipping off and on. In short, with all the boats I’ve seen around, I’ve not seen a better dog option for kayaks.

    The top section is strong enough for a dog to stand on

    How to Introduce a Dog to the Kayak

    When introducing your dog to the kayak, try it on land first! First, and very importantly, make sure your dog is exercised and tired. Do whatever it takes to make sure your dog is calm, perhaps wait a couple days if this is the first time he’s at the beach and he’s just going crazy. If you can find a sandy area just sit yourself and your pup in the kayak and see how they do. Ask them to load up, ideally with a command they already understand. Whiskey understands “wait” and “up up” and “stay”. The wait is necessary as she now understands boats are her taxis and she will jump on before I’m ready.

    Know what you dog needs and responds to and bring anything that might help. Treats and a chew are really helpful, and my own dogs LOVE blankets so I bring 3! Get into the kayak somewhere calm (edge of the beach or a dock) and ask a friend to hold the boat while you dog loads up. Keep it calm and controlled, ask your dog to load and sit and stay. Reward with treats and get yourself comfortable before you ask your dog to lie down. At this point present a chew if necessary and slowly push off.

    Treat periodically (more at first and then space it out longed and longer) or let your dog lie down with a chew and just float around paddling gently. Keep the first sessions short and sweet and keep your mood calm (even when rewarding your dog, keep everything calm). Slowly increase your paddling time and see what you can do to make your own dog more comfortable. Try one dog at a time before added multiple!

    Accessories

    Vizsla dog on a oru kayak at sunset

    The Oru Kayaks fold up into a box and can be carried with a strap that it comes with. You can also purchase an additional backpack that makes travel much easier (I highly suggest this!). It helps keep sand from your car, and is so much easier to carry around on your back. You can also put the paddle and life jacket and extras in the pockets and walk a very long distance with the kayak. As I mentioned earlier, a foam or extra seat padding makes the kayak much more comfortable. You can use any paddles but I do suggest one that breaks down into 4 sections if you are carrying and storing your kayak in small locations (like a car).

    Viszla and woman high five in lake with Oru Kayak backpack
    My kayak on my back with the lifejacket and paddles in the attachments

    The seat pads are very thin so I would highly suggest a bum pad (like the seat pads for camping or any waterproof foam). For both models, if you are in open water with waves a dry bag is really helpful. If you’re out at night, it’s also really fun to add lights inside the boat (integrate them while you’re building them).

    Putting the Beach to the test

    So the Beach kayak is suggested calm water, for easy trips, and casual day fun. Well, I took it out in waves (I got pretty wet!) and it was super stable and easy to handle, but not as quick to turn as the Bay. I also took it out on an overnight trip and found it was easy to load on bags and luggage (there’s space behind as well as in front of the seat and very easy to access) and it was pretty decent at tracking straight and dealing with wind and tides. It’s not a fast boat (the Bay is much faster and easy to maneuver on these kinds of trips) but it’s easier to load up than the Bay.

    Dog swimming next to woman on alpine lake in British Columbia
    Whiskey swimming with Kaitlyn on an alpine lake

    I’ve also landed and taken off from very rocky beaches and beaches covered in barnacles and the hull has been fine (scratched like any plastic but fine). I’ve also found my own limits to carrying up the kayak on a very rugged trail up in the alpine wilderness. Because there was no way to carry both my overnight pack and my kayak, I had to make 3 trips per every one (instead of going from car to site, I had to go from car to site with my pack, then back to car, then back to site with my kayak). The kayak is very bulky and not easy on single track trails that are super steep. It’s also hard to balance jumping from log to log and hard to deal with slippery trails. In short, stick to easy trails that are 1m wide unless you love to struggle!

    Woman Hiking backcountry up to campsite
    Hiking this boat up to this alpine location was not easy

    Last, this kayak looks different. It’s beautiful and everyone loves watching it put together and used. You can light it up at night and it’s the most lovely thing.

    Glowing kayak oru paddle at night
    Evening paddles with a glowing boat

    Pros and Cons of the Beach Oru Kayak

    Pros: Fits in small places, easy to pack up and down, easy for beginners, stable, fits so many dogs, accepts a heavy load, strong, good looks, lighter than blow up kayaks, tracks well, one year warranty, good resale value, beautiful

    Downsides: Price, Rudderless, need to learn how to set up at first, Wet deck, Seat needs extra cushion, seat back can come off sometimes.

    Please don’t forget to use our discount and support us! WHISKEY with any Oru purchase

    Oru Kayak assembly
    Turquoise lake with dogs
    Dogs that paddle
  • How to Train your Puppy to Recall Off Leash

    How to Train your Puppy to Recall Off Leash

    Do you struggle with recalling your dog reliably when they’re off leash in a new area full of smells, people, dogs, and noises? Here’s a guide to what I found was helpful with my girls!

    1. Start Recall Right Away
    2. Puppy Recall
    3. The Goal
    4. How to Be Fun
    5. How to Be Strategic
    6. Stay Safe!
    7. Distance Duration Distraction
    8. Preemptive Games
    9. Recall off Wild Animals
    10. Treats as Rewards
    11. Other Reward Options
    12. Jackpot
    13. Socialization prevents Runaways
    14. High Prey Drive
    15. Exercise
    16. Challenges
    16. Resources

    Disclaimer
    First off, here’s a reminder that I AM NOT A PROFFESIONAL TRAINER, but here’s what I do with my Vizslas in order for us to have them off leash in our area. I hope some of this would be helpful, but most importantly start early, be consistent about practicing, and be patient (with yourself and your dog). Find a support network and ask for help!

    Start Recall Right Away

    With both Bourbon and Whiskey we let them off leash from day one in safer low-distraction areas (they were 8 weeks old). In both cases we didn’t have access to a fenced yard or fenced area but they were still allowed to roam free and recalled as soon as they went about 6 feet away with lots of yummy treats, praise and attention. The main dangers and distractions to avoid were people, cars, dogs, and wildlife.

    Bourbon Dragging a leash

    Puppy Recall

    I found that when they were very young they didn’t “see” as far away as we did and so it was much easier to recall and leash up before a person or dog walked close enough to be a problem. Recalling and learning their names took about a week or so, so in the beginning high pitched sounds like “beep bep beep bep” to recall, along with their names and a continuous “YES!!” that got more excitable as they ran towards you worked well. Yes, you will sound like a crazy person but the more you are willing to be insane and do anything to get your puppy’s attention, the more successful you’ll be. Always follow up with yummy treats to hold their attention once they are close! Start offering the treats but then quickly move to only offering treats once you have eye contact. Ideally wait for eye contact before you even touch or move your hand towards the rewards.

    Offleash Bourbon as a puppy

    The Goal

    Your goal with recall is that you must make yourself more interesting than everything else in the environment. Pair up the name+treat+fun as quickly as you can and practice in harder environments. You can be more patient with interesting distractions but if your puppy is totally ignoring you, grab your pup quickly instead of calling and calling, and if possible drop the leash and practice the recall when the distraction is a bit further away and you are closer to your pup. See every distraction as an opportunity to practice recall, you only need to learn what is within the edge of success and work within that. The more success you can get, even if they are easy successes the more confidence and predictability you’ll have. Recall 5-20 times on every walk, you’ll collect the wins so fast!

    Treats for stumps with Whiskey

    Be Fun!

    When your puppy just starts to turn their head towards you as you call, first acknowledging you, you must build on that attention. Call you YESS! and do what you can to be cooler than whatever the distraction was. Try different things and see what works with your dog. Squeal progressively louder, or higher pitched, run away in a weird zig zag catch-me-if-you-can, drop to the ground, hide behind a tree.

    When your pup approaches, don’t just stand there and hand over a treat. Toss the treat one way and run the other so your dog needs to catch you for the next treat. Roll the treat between your legs so they need to find it, hold the treat and lure them around a little bit, dropping bits into their mouth as you go. Make it FUN! Keep your voice happy, keep your attitude light. Would you want to run as fast as you can to someone that’s angry, yanks you, puts you on a leash and screams at your face? You’d probably want to run towards someone that is smiling, giving you $100, telling you how beautiful you look, and that they missed you and would you like a bar of your favorite chocolate?

    If you’re prone to scream or be super stressed when recalling in difficult situations (ie you’re scared your dog is going to run into traffic and you cannot control your voice), then train your dog to associate your load scary screaming with urgency but NOT punishment or fear. Finally, even though you’re working on being fun with your dog, you still want to stay in charge and hold a confident demeanor, it can be a little bit of a weird line to walk on while making weird noises and playing hide and seek, but when you praise or command, it needs to be with confidence.

    Be Strategic With Recall

    What is the distraction? See if you can figure out what has your dog’s attention and reward them with the same thing but better. If your dog is busy sniffing out something exciting, then recall them and scatter some treats here and there and ask them to use their nose to find it. If your puppy is old enough, teach them to do a sit/stay and then search for treats in a larger area on command. If your dog is distracted by chasing another dog, let them chase you a little bit, put a tree between you and make it hard for them to catch you, when they do, squeal and play and give them a treat. If your dog is distracted by a toy, bring a toy with you and recall straight to a tug or a ball or stick. If your dog is off chasing things that move, recall and throw treats further, make them run back and forth, maybe getting them to catch them in the air. Certain breeds of dogs will have better drive to recall for different things. Puppies tend to take food easier but as they grow up, work on increasing a drive that you can control (a drive to tug, a drive to fetch, a drive to do tricks, a drive to sniff). This will build your value to your dog that you are the only thing in the world that can provide the magical ball and will help not only your recall but your ability to hold their concentration over distractions.

    Long line practice with Whiskey

    Stay Safe

    Recall practice looks so different depending on where you live. If you’re in a rural area with loads of forest, but dangerous animals, or if you’re in the city with cars everywhere and only tiny busy parks, you can find a way to practice recall safely. A long line is a super long leash (20+ feet) that you can let your dog drag along (or you can hold it and unravel as needed) and just step on the line if your dog isn’t recalling. You can also use natural and man made barriers that control and slow down your dog. Baseball diamonds in the offseason, islands, mountains, or streams will keep most puppies in line (it really depends on breeds but my dogs will never cross water so I use that frequently as a natural barrier). Learn your dog and predict what their range will be in open land, or crowded forest. You can just do recall in the city with a 6 foot leash, walking around downtown and recalling off discarded food on the ground, other dogs, or interesting events. We used to find geese in the city parks and practice heeling and recall with our regular leash.

    Whiskey with Canadian Geese as a puppy

    Distance, Duration, Distraction

    See if you can put these distractions in order for your dogs (from least to most distracting) and proactively find these distractions to recall from. Start from the furthest distance you can and work your way up to your dog interacting with the distraction and calling them back (ie mid squirrel stalk). Work on longer durations that you expect their concentration, and adjust depending on their moods, the environment and other factors.

    • Dogs
    • People
    • Cars
    • Bikes
    • Pigeons
    • Geese
    • Squirrels
    • Cats
    • Discarded wrappers
    • Pizza on the ground
    • Dog treats on the ground
    • Deer
    • Ball
    • Stick
    • Smelly dead animal
    • Horse poop
    • Remote control car toy/Drones

    Preemptive Games

    Hide and seek- in a quiet safe area worked really well for us when they were young (not so effective with a teenager!). Vizslas and puppies especially want to be with their human so we would take just Bourbon or Whiskey out for a walk around a forest with big trees but no people. We would then hide as soon as she wandered far enough away and wait for her to notice we were missing. As soon as we could see her looking for us, we would call out and let her find us. It would become a game for her to make sure we were always close so we couldn’t go hide on her. We would also give her lots of treats and love when she did find us! You can also play this game with two people, one hiding, and when ready, ask your puppy to “find mommy”. Not only will your dog learn your “name”, but they’ll be learning to sniff you out to receive a big welcome, treat and love.

    If you are going for a walk off leash and your dog or puppy checks in with you, always give praise and treats.

    Fear of On-leashing-

    Practice holding onto your dog’s collar and leashing and unleashing with treats. Some dogs understand that a recall means they must lose their freedom and go on leash and will play keep-away. Try walking on and off leash periodically and leash up calmly with a treat before and after touching or tugging the collar. It’s better if your dog does not shy away from you quickly grabbing and tugging on their collar incase of emergency so practice this without warning and give praises and treats . Always notice if your dog is tense or anxious and work within their boundaries. I like to tell my girls “leash up” so they know what’s happening and expect them to stand and wait for me to struggle for 30seconds.

    Whiskey meets horses for the first time

    Wild animals

    If possible, find out the gamut of animals you may encounter and see if you can figure out which ones capture your dog’s attention the most to least. Find and work with the animal that is least interesting (ie crows are less interesting than pigeons, than ducks, than grouse). Practice calm sits, paw, lie downs around a crow from a distance.

    Find out what is the closest distance you can practice training your dog and keep their attention with the animal around. It’s ok for them to notice the animal, just not run towards it. You want to practice a sit/stay/down before you practice recall. Recall with a long line or leash drag once you gain your own confidence. Slowly work your way closer to the animal, then work on a harder animal. Sometimes you may just need to have your dog beside you on leash, feeding them treats for half an hour until they are ready to train. Be patient, it’s worth it! Repeat daily and you’ll see improvement quickly!

    Train “leave it” and increase self control which will help with everything involving recall, especially wild animals. Start “leave it” with low value treats or food, and slowly increase the duration, the food value, and the distance you are from your dog and treat. Depending on your dog and your goals, you can either release your dog to eat the food/meal/treat or you can provide a higher value reward and take away the treat. This can be practiced with leaving food found on the ground in a city, a pigeon on the sidewalk, or even good smelling coffee cup.

    Whiskey on leash with a marmot in Northern BC

    Treats as Reward

    I use a variety of treats and I pay attention to which ones my dog values more. I use lower value treats for easier recalls, and give them a handful if they do something amazing. When I’m first introducing something new I use only high value treats. I always have a mix so my pup doesn’t get bored and so that I can reach in and try something different if needed. Because my training can use up a bag of treats quickly I like to use freeze dried raw food as a meal replacement. Sometimes people use kibble but I really think these are more highly valued (it only takes a quick test to find out!).

    Other Reward Options

    Notice what your dog likes as praise, not what you think your dog “should” like. Some dogs don’t like to be petted on their heads, or hugged. Vizslas tend to love attention and vocal praise as well as butt scratches but your dog might love a chin scratch and hate eye contact. Over time, if you can train your dog to like something more than treats (like a tug toy or a ball) you’ll have an easier time of training and a much cheaper time too! (also see the “Be Strategic” section.

    Working dogs tend to have a drive for some type of “work”, you’ll just need to try different things along with treats and praises to see what may stick. Whiskey LOVES sticks and balls even more than treats as she loves to “work” and fetch is her work. The more options you have, the better when recalling. It’s likely your dog will not want to recall from chasing a goose unless she thinks you may have something even better for her like a squeaky bouncy ball that she can play with over and over. Lastly, sometimes “COME!” may not have been trained enough and have enough of a reward than another command like “FETCH” or “SIT”, if that’s the case, you can either recall with whatever command is working, and then work your recall command to be stronger, or include another command with your recall (ie sometimes it will help if I recall Whiskey and go immediately into a trick or two to get her mind fully off the distraction and onto me so my recall is stronger if I use a COME paired with a STUMP or PAW).

    The Jackpot

    Once inawhile, pack something AMAZING like an entire beef patty or bacon, or roasted chicken in an airtight container and pull it out for a really good recall. This gets your dog just hoping to hit jackpot and addicted to the recall. You can also teach an emergency recall to a different command on top of your regular recall and train for extremely snappy returns that are always paired with jackpots.

    Socialization to the max!

    Socializing Prevents Runaways

    Some dogs can run because they see or hear something frightening and they are essentially deaf to your voice at this point. It’s so important that you socialize your dog to all sorts of sounds, animals, people, and events all with positive reinforcements. Introduce new things well within your dog’s anxiety limits and be conservative with their reactions. If it doesn’t feel right, or you feel you are pushing it, then just take it slower. Some dogs will be totally fine with a busy city center, noises, cars backfiring, and motorcycles right next to them, but some other dogs may need a very very slow introduction to a bus beep. All the work you do when they are young will pay off, you just may not see it, because it won’t become a problem.

    A Samoyed with Wild Horses

    High Prey Drive is real and Difficult to Overcome

    There are lots of dogs that may become deaf/blind to your calls when they start chasing prey and there may be very little you can do once your dog starts the chase. Start as early as you can to work on recall but there may be limits to recall from voice with certain dogs. There are many options and tools out there but please do research and train with a professional. If you can recognize the signals before your dog does run and can interrupt the sequence, that’s always great, but it may not be reasonable to expect perfect recall, ever with just your voice.

    Exercise

    Lastly, having a puppy or dog that has many outlets for exercise, chase, play, and mental simulation will reduce their need and drive to run off. Changing up your park, meeting other dogs for playtime, and training sessions that mentally tire out your dog will reduce the amount of times they may not want to recall.

    Practice recall in this situation!

    Challenges

    Recall like any training is not easy, nor is it a linear progression. There might be setbacks, and breakthroughs and ruts in the road. If you start when your dog is a puppy and continually reinforce throughout their lifetime, you’ll probably have an easier time than starting later and doing a big 6 months and then relaxing.

    So much depends on the dog’s personality and breed. Herding dogs stay closer to the herd (you!), whereas hunting dogs are bred to find a scent and chase it for as long as it takes. Sled dogs are bred to survive and be independent, and protection dogs will naturally stay close. Unneutered males and females in heat will range, and teenager dogs 7months-1 year or so will challenge your status and commands. Keep all this in mind and remember that even if your dog is perfectly well trained, you will need to reinforce recall over their lifetimes and keep practicing what works for both of you.

    Resources

    There are loads of resources online for recall, specific issues, and for so many things I just touched upon. Work with a trainer, or read, listen, and watch what you can to learn. Here are a couple quick resources I threw together. Most of my learning comes from talking to friends, trainers, watching videos I don’t keep track of, and loads of trial and error. Don’t just follow one trainer or blog, read lots and make up your own mind what makes sense to you and your dog.

    Biothane long line

    Sexier than a Squirrel Challenge

    Come, Boy Train your Dog to Come Every Time

    Zac George Video Recall

    Recall with Husky

    Victoria Stilwell recall

    Whole dog Journal

  • The Journey of a Vizsla Puppy: the cutest shark in town

    The Journey of a Vizsla Puppy: the cutest shark in town

    Bourbon: what to expect from a high energy Vizsla puppy

    Here’s a diary of our first 5 months with Bourbon at home. It covers the flight home to our current situation. I’ve mentioned training, eating, chewing, hikes, dogs, distances, crates, and everything in-between. 

    Vaccinations: Bourbon was vaccinated before we got her, as well as at 10 weeks, and tittered at 16 weeks (she showed a high level of antibodies so no more vaccinations needed). Our area has no outbreak of Parvo (the biggest one to watch out for before letting your puppy on trails), and we kept to safe areas until her 10 week vaccination. We rarely visit dog parks and wouldn't suggest any until older.
    Disclaimer: Other sources may have very different opinions on what's an appropriate time and length of walk for a dog of a certain age. The main takeaway is to avoid strain/impact on growing bones like jumping on hard surfaces, long down-climbs, sustained running/biking, really anything much on concrete, and extended distances. Every breed is very different (would you suggest the same exercise routine for a bulldog as for a Vizsla?) but I'm no expert.
    Bourbon at her breeders, I should have known…

    Flight with a Carry-on Puppy

    I had wanted to avoid having to fly alone with Bourbon but because of Covid regulations, driving was not possible. Instead of a 6 hour drive, I had to complete a 14 hour door-to-door adventure with a brand new 8 week old puppy. We had 2 flights (Air Alaska), 2 car rides, Immigration, several security checks and lots of misadventures. The time waiting for flights in the airport was the hardest because I was alone (try going to the bathroom with your carry-on roller bag and a Vizsla puppy, with a mask in a busy airport). There was so much activity and noise that treats and chews weren’t really working as a distraction so I found running back and forth in a little section was the busiest I could keep Bourbon. We stayed away from any carpet in case she had to pee, and I laid out the puppy pee pads every chance I had.

    I thought to board last so I don’t have to wait in a packed plane in line with a screaming dog and had the least possible amount of time in the airplane. I had chosen a seat at the back of the plane so we had some space and a quick walk to the bathroom (the puppy is supposed to stay in the bag the entire time but with Whiskey we found in order to let her pee, we would take her to the toilet, lay down a pee pad and she would go). Unfortunately the air hostess that reads out the take off instructions was located at the back right next to us and Bourbon screamed her little head off, so much so, that the air hostess was giggling over the intercom (Sorry!!).

    Once we did take off I was allowed to put the soft crate bag in my lap and open the top so Bourbon’s head could see me and breathe. Thankfully after her screaming fit she fell asleep once we were in the air. Upon landing she woke up again and we tried to get through immigration as fast as possible. I declared my new puppy to import and paid a really small amount of fees before I found our car and headed home for another 1.5 hour drive. Bourbon thankfully was amazing in the car and didn’t get carsick the way Whiskey used to. I think the entire ordeal was pretty exhausting for us both.

    Day 2 with the monster
    Blep

    Day 1-3

    Arriving with Bourbon, I was living alone (in quarantine) for over the first week. Bourbon was expectedly confused with her new surroundings. Our home is about 1000sq ft, about half of it was baby-gated off. The first couple days Bourbon would cry if she wasn’t in the same room as me. If I left to go to the bathroom, she would get lost looking for me so I kept the doors opened, taught her to follow my voice, and laid out a soft dog bed in every room so she had a place to wait.

    Our backyard is not fenced so I kept her on a leash in the front yard and let her trail a leash in the backyard. I had no idea what her bladder schedule was like so I took her out after every meal, every time she woke up, every half an hour she was awake, and treated and praised her for going outside. I didn’t have a harness ready because I had such a hard time trying to guess the size to get (big mistake) but luckily our cat harness fit for the first week until I could order and receive the Ruffwear Flagline harness (XS was loose but worked for her entire puppy-hood).

    We still had a couple accidents inside, but never more than one a day, and overall Bourbon was much easier to housetrain than Whiskey (in an apartment vs a house). She however had a habit of stepping in her poop right after going so I had lots of use for dog wipes. I wasn’t working so it really helped I could just spend my time watching her and try to sneak in a shower or make a quick meal if she fell asleep.

    I didn’t want to crate train right away as I felt horrible pulling Bourbon from her littermates to a cold plastic crate so Bourbon slept with me very happily. To be honest I was also too exhausted to add sleep deprivation into the mix so I kept delaying crate training until later. Bourbon also worked out her relationship with our cat Moo over the next couple weeks learning to fear the creature and also how to play “stalk and kill” with her.

    Getting a sit stay
    Lovely nap, now lets what can I chew on

    First week- (8-9 weeks old)

    5-7 hours sleep (in bed)
    100m “walks”
    sit/paw/come

    Our first week together I was mostly working on bonding, getting a solid sit, and practicing all the recall I could! We worked on chewing the right items and learning how to settle. She was a little shark and would just chew anything in sight so redirecting was a full time job (it’s easier if you have loads of toys of different textures available throughout the house always at an arms reach). Chews we used are listed here

    Settling was very important, where you need to hold your pup and calm them when they are overly tired or out of control. It teaches them how to self regulate early, and how to put themselves to sleep. Bourbon was pretty good at this in the beginning but you had to be very firm and calm and totally ignore all the bites and wiggles. This gets much harder as they get older and smarter and we had to relearn this several times but it’s such a game changer. I find that the advice to yelp when they bite does NOT work when they are having sharkies (going nuts and biting everything). It only ramps them up and the yelping didn’t seem to work for anyone I talked to at this stage (during active sharkies). What really worked was slowing my own heartrate down, holding her in a way she couldn’t escape, and calmly (I know this is really hard when your hands are bleeding) saying “settle” or a cue word. Focusing on my own heartrate, transferring calmness to Bourbon really helped her relax. The key was to wait until she had this signature deep sigh and I knew she had settled. Sometimes I needed to repeat this multiple times but it made life so much easier.

    I also lent Bourbon out to friends so they could take her around new situations because I was in quarantine and couldn’t expose her to everything I wanted to. It also helped to prevent separation anxiety and fears. My lovely friends took her to a café, to Home Depot, around different neighborhoods and trails (but did stay away from dog-busy frequently trafficked areas to avoid diseases). She stayed close and on leash and didn’t seem to mind a change of humans. I spent my free time cutting down blackberry bushes that Bourbon seemed to love chewing (they had large sharp thorns!).

    At this point Bourbon wasn’t food motivated and had to learn that treats were to be valued (she preferred her own kibble to cheese). There was little to no attention span and self control. My main goal was to bond with her and find her motivations so I had something to work with in terms of training.

    At night, Bourbon could sleep up 5-7 hours straight, one potty early morning, and back to another 5 hours. Sleeping with her was a dream and she was really sweet and cuddly.

    I knew I wanted to switch Bourbon to raw food but I didn’t want to change her food right after a traumatic separation from her family and such a crazy transition though the airports and roads. I waited a couple days to make sure her poops were good, and then offered a bit of raw which she willingly ate. I tried a meal of half/half but Bourbon would pick out what was familiar (the kibble) so I fully switched the next meal to all raw and success! I then used the rest of the kibble as training treats until they were all finished. I didn’t seem to have any transition issues or tummy issues with the whole ordeal.

    2nd week
    Tiny short forest walks (like 500m)

    2nd week (9-10 weeks old)

    5-7 hours sleep (in bed)
    500m “walks”
    sit/paw/come/leave it/down/go potty

    I thought I was getting the hang of settling but it got harder! Sharkies got worse with more bite, more energy and no fear. Bourbon was introduced to her first off leash walks in the forest where she stayed very close and recalled like a champ. I was able to introduce the concept of “leave it” so a tiny bit of self control, as well as crating when she needed a time out.

    She continued to have zoomies and sharkies and was introduced to Whiskey. As soon as she had Whiskey, she just clung to her and would want to be playing with her or sitting on her so we needed to make sure that Whiskey wasn’t overwhelmed and had her own space. Whiskey had separate hikes during the day and slept in a different bed. However I did train the together, and treated Whiskey generously when she let Bourbon touch or cuddle with her (it took 48 hours). Bourbon just automatically gravitated towards Whiskey over any human and followed her lead. It was both easier and harder!

    Out on the trails Bourbon would adventure and discover on her own. I slept with Bourbon and Thierry had Whiskey in another room with her regular crate routine. At this time we noticed Bourbon had some issues with being constrained and she had a fractured toe (from various accidents that made it worse). She also hinted at a guarding behavior. I started working on little training sessions to offset what I saw. I trained with treats and jackets (jackets seemed to trigger her), harness, and “leave it” commands. We also played games where we would play a little rough and hold her down for a second and let her go again which she was ok with.

    First canoe trips
    Lake Louise in the Canadian Rockies

    3-4 week (10-12 weeks old)

    5-7 hours sleep
    750m-1km “walks” (over an hour, lots of breaks)
    sit/paw/come/leave it/down/go potty/stay/boats/

    As soon as I was out of quarantine, we went on a roadtrip and introduced Bourbon to many many new things. She lived in a car and a tiny trailer without issues. She had her first kayak and canoe rides, her first mini “hikes” on leash (.5km), met a ton of dogs and people, and tried some longer walks mixed with being carried. She still wasn’t fully bonded to us (happily would follow and walk off with a stranger or another dog) but was absolutely bonded to Whiskey. We maxed out at 30mins awake in a canoe and 40mins in a kayak. During this time we also did some meal replacement with freeze dried raw food for training and were getting much better recalls and sit/stays. Everything was chewed on and eaten and every dog needed to be greeted. We reinforced a routine even on the road with 3 feedings a day, and expected quiet times, and time for little adventures. Bourbon’s attention span got longer (measured in the amount of time she would chew something before losing interest).

    I mentioned Bourbon had problems being constrained so I worked on making jackets a happy thing (she hated them and would fight them). I would always put on jackets with a treat and spent time putting them on and off as a training session. After a week she no problems with jackets. I worked on “leave it” to deal with guarding and made sure she felt safe eating. I made the dogs wait for their bowls longer and longer, and constantly took away chews for better options, or took away toys and gave them back. I haven’t seen much guarding other than no dropping a prized “treat” she finds outside since then.

    We started introducing sleeping alone in her crate after a full month. It was about 1.5 hours of crying and screaming for 2 days (crate was in the bed with us) and on the 3rd night it was about half an hour before she went to sleep. We would let her out at around 5am for a potty and then she was allowed to sleep with us until we got up that morning. She regressed in terms of how long she could sleep without needing a potty break but eventually that extended until she could sleep all night. I’ll write a more full post about this soon!

    Settling became easier as we both understood how to communicate to her better. We stopped having to crate her to settle and she started understanding NO. We got better at sit/stays and extending walks to 1.5kms towards the end of 4 weeks. Recall was constant work (and still is). Bourbon also had to learn to approach dogs gently and was reminded every week or so by a couple nips (nothing breaking skin), growls, and lessons from older dogs. The worst Whiskey would do would be a growl with teeth showing which we would allow and encourage Bourbon to respect the boundaries.

    LOGLOG!!!
    First snow experience…not so happy
    First summit (assistance needed)

    2 months (4 months old)

    5-7 hours sleep
    2-3km “walks” (loads of breaks)
    sit/paw/come/leave it/down/go potty/stay/up/stump

    There seemed to be no fear of fireworks (during Halloween), of dogs, of people, or really anything. We slowly increased outdoor hiking time and distance while encouraging confidence but also caution. Bourbon was comfortable being carried on longer walks and learned to ask for help when needed (when she was cold or tired). She also learned to seek warmth and self regulate on walks (not just go totally nuts every time we took a break). I tried to hide on her in the forest to keep her range a big closer, although I’m not sure how much that worked since her confidence was already so high.

    Bourbon continued chewing everything but with bigger jaw muscles and longer attention span. My computer speaker, a couple plants, some beautiful rugs and blankets, a dog bed and my tablet pen were all victims. Somehow she lost all her baby teeth without us finding a single one! Her favorite chew toy was her sister and she would regularly jump on Whiskey’s back and just start chewing. Whiskey was so patient with her!

    Bourbon’s toe was finally healed but she was left with sensitivity to nails being clipped and handled (she was scared already before the injury which made it worse). We started experimenting with different methods to do her nails.

    Bourbon was also introduced to snow for the first time, as well as some steeper rocky climbs and heights. We encouraged her to explore at her own comfort level and to find her own way up obstacles. She started being able to sit for lengths of time for photos and posing with other dogs.

    More assistance down needed for longer hikes
    A week downtown was very exhausting for both of us

    3 months home (5 months old)

    9 hours sleep
    4km “walks” (loads of breaks and carrying)
    sit/paw/come/leave it/down/go potty/stay/spin/touch/up
    working on exposure to downtown, walking on leash without pulling, prey drive

    I rented a downtown apartment for a week to expose Bourbon alone to the city, noises, distractions, and buildings. She took to everything extremely well (including elevators) although the hardest was pigeons, crows, and falling leaves. My voice broke after all the high pitched calls and noises I was making to get her attention! Bourbon had loads of on-leash practice time (something we rarely do outside of the city) and got better at walking without pulling (with a ton of rewards and active training). I used the Ruffwear Flagline harness for all the on leash work and the handle was SO key to be able to lift her up in situations (such as eating something on the ground, walking into traffic, or big dog coming). I started being able to recall her off some dogs, some people, and some distractions. She started showing her stubbornness and personality but conversely insisted on following routines and schedules. Bourbon is a very clear communicator. Hikes with more and more cliffs were introduced as well as inclines (I carried her down any inclines if there was potential impact).

    We started daily doing nail desensitizing trying different methods so we could clip or Dremel her nails. Since Whiskey’s never loved her nails done, we also trained Whiskey at the same time. As of writing this I’m 3 months into daily nail desensitizing and we’ve definitely improved but can still only get 1-4 of Bourbon’s nails done each session. Whiskey’s really easy at this point but I think it’ll still be another month at least with Bourbon.

    This month was salmon season in full effect so we found out that Bourbon was an eater (of deer/elk/horse poop, and rotten carcasses) not a roller (Whiskey is typically a roller). Bourbon also loved to invent and play games by herself or with other pups. Her adult personality really became clear around this time and she started making up games to play such as throwing things down steep slopes so she could chase after them, or just watch them fall. We still hadn’t seen any fear stages show up.

    Getting comfortable on rocky cliffs and mountains
    Another snowy summit. This time up and down all on her own
    The happiest girl!

    4 months home (6 months old)

    10 hours sleep
    6km walks once a week, usually 2-3km walks twice a day offleash
    sit/paw/come/leave it/down/go potty/stay/up/spin/weave/high five/fetch/gogo
    working on distractions, faster recalls, nails, soft mouth

    We were able to increase canoeing time to 1 hour and hikes to 6km with lots of rests (done rarely). I started cross country skiing with Bourbon and she learned how to avoid skis. Meals were down to 2 a day with no accidents in the house. Bourbon’s dog on dog greeting was pretty good at this point coming in friendly but submissive and flipping over as soon as a dog shows any aggression. She listened to and responded to recalls from people/dogs but only after saying hi first. We were about 50/50 successful on recall from people/dogs before she said hello from a decent distance.

    At this point there was some giardia going around our neighborhood and both Whiskey and Bourbon took turns having the runs, but nothing terrible. I switched them on home cooked food for a couple days but there didn’t seem to be any cause to worry (I would have worried if it was my first dog). Bourbon’s range increased to about 200m within sight but overall ranged close enough for me to see her in forests and was very hard to hide from (even if I hid she tracked me down fast). She was also independent enough to play with herself during hiking breaks and would wander off to chase pinecones around instead of begging for food.

    Getting better a higher logs and balancing
    Longer hikes with little to no impact
    Rocking the modelling world

    5 months home (7 months old)

    10 hours sleep/almost adult bladder
    8 km flat walks once a week, usually 2-3km walks twice a day offleash
    sit/paw/come/leave it/down/go potty/stay/up/spin/weave/high five/fetch/all with dog and people distractions
    working on nails, recall from dogs, loose leash, attention span, fetch, not chewing the wrong things

    Bourbon is reaching the weight limit that I can carry on steep terrain. We are always working on recall and checking in, as well as walking with dogs she is to ignore. She’s successfully done a couple hard log crossing that full sized dogs would be afraid of. She’s shown cliff awareness but I still don’t feel safe with her off leash around death drops (likely for several more months!). We’ve done enough skiing (even one backcountry) and she’s aware not to get in the way of skis and she’s been ok in multiple types of clothing and doggy sleeping bags. Our bond has really grown but she still show no separation issues on the rare times we have a chance to leave her with someone else. She’s a very curious and thoughtful puppy and loves games to keep her brain occupied.

    She chews inappropriate things now about once a week and is allowed around the rest of the house (no more baby gates). Because of Covid we haven’t practiced leaving her for periods of time in her crate. We are practicing sit/stays/recalls etc around other dogs, in dog parks, and highly distracted areas. Her stomach seems pretty strong for all the things she ingests without getting sick. I’m still working on snappy recalls and trust as well as teaching her to settle when bored (she normally goes off to find something to destroy or make up her own games at home). Bourbon still seems totally fine on her own or with Whiskey, with a different pack of dogs, or solo. Hopefully at some point when the border opens, we can get her trained on birds!

    List of puppy stuff that we loved and used.

    How to teach a puppy recall

  • How Big Will my Vizsla be? Female Puppy Weight Charts

    How Big Will my Vizsla be? Female Puppy Weight Charts

    I’ve been tracking Whiskey and Bourbon’s weight as they’ve been growing up and it’s a frequent question I get. Whiskey’s adult weight is about 52lbs, which she reached over 2 years old for reference. Whiskey was weaned from kibble to homecooked food, to raw as a puppy. Bourbon was switched straight to raw within 2 days (raw-fed reportedly slower to reach full weight). Whiskey had numerous digestive issues (Giardia, picky eating) as a puppy, and Bourbon has had none (outside of eating questionable rotten carcasses outside).

    Vizsla puppy held by female with huge ears
    Whiskey when she was a tiny pup with gigantic ears

    Whiskey’s Puppy Weight Chart

    DayWeekLbsKg
    771116.57.5
    831216.57.5
    9013188.2
    1041520.59.3
    1181724.711.2
    132192812.7
    1462132.414.7
    1532232.814.9
    1612333.715.3
    1632333.715.3
    1682434.215.5
    1732536.216.4
    1832638.417.4
    2483540.318.3
    Female vizsla puppy sitting on bed
    Bourbon as a puppy

    Bourbon’s Weight chart

    DayWeekLbsKg
    831117.27.8
    911319.68.9
    9914219.5
    107152210
    1131623.210.5
    119172511.3
    1311826.211.9
    1432029.813.5
    155223214.5
    1662335.416.1
    171243616.3
    1812537.216.9
    190273817.2

    Click here for The Journey of a Vizsla Puppy: the cutest shark in town

    Click here for How to Train your Puppy to Recall Off Leash

    Click here for Puppy Dog Chews- an extensive list

  • Dog Hiking Checklist: What to Bring on a Hike

    Dog Hiking Checklist: What to Bring on a Hike

    These items should be on your hiking checklist! Optional gear is in GREEN, Seasonal gear is in BLUE. This is assuming something like an 8 hour alpine hike in the backcountry with no reception and a dog.

    10 essentials for any hike
    1. Navigation
    2. Headlamp
    3. Sun protection
    4. First Aid
    5. Knife
    6. Fire
    7. shelter
    8. Extra food
    9. Extra Water
    10. Extra clothing

    On Body

    • Hiking shoes
    • Hiking pants/tights
    • Merino T-shirt
    • Merino long sleeve/zip
    • Shell jacket
    • Knee Brace
    • Gaiters
    • Dog leash
    • Merino Socks
    • Merino underwear
    • extra hair ties
    • hat

    On Dog

    • collar with tags
    • harness
    • dog jacket

    in Pack

    • Dog leash
    • phone
    • car keys
    • wallet
    • Garmin Inreach Mini
    • battery pack
    • headlamp
    • emergency blanket
    • gloves
    • toque
    • extra merino top layer
    • warm extra layers to share
    • dog sleeping bag
    • food (so much food)
    • emergency bars
    • drink/tea/water bladder
    • water filter
    • bear mace
    • air horn
    • jacket
    • sunglasses
    • extra socks
    • down jacket
    • waterproof shell
    • crampons
    • snowshoes
    • bugspray
    • sunscreen
    • poop bags
    • dog treats
    • dog food
    • dog bowl
    • carabiners
    • sunhat
    • salt stick (electrolytes)
    • hand warmer
    • knife
    • dog layers (clothing)
    • dog booties
    • dog lights

    First Aid Kit

    • Compeed Blister Packs (best ones I’ve found)
    • Advil
    • Reactine (can be used on dogs)
    • Benadryl (can be used on dogs)
    • Superglue
    • bandages
    • lighter/matches
    • duct tape
    • zip ties
    • gravol
    • polysporin
    • tick remover
    • alcohol pads
    • larger bandages
    • dog emergency bootie
    • electrolytes
    • earplugs
    • tape
    • mirror
    • shoelace
    • safety pins
    • small plastic bags
    • mutlitool

    Photography

    • Camera
    • lenses
    • extra batteries
    • camera clip
    • tripod

    in Car

    • shovel
    • clothes to change into afterwards
    • car shoes
    • drink
    • food
    • dog wipes/baby wipes
    • blankets
  • Our Best and Tested Gear for Camping with Dogs

    Our Best and Tested Gear for Camping with Dogs

    I’ve been backcountry camping with Whiskey since I’ve had her and we’ve tried so many different forms and types of gear. While I’ve gotten used to carrying a significant amount of weight, every piece that I bring needs to be purposeful, tough, and lightweight (in that order). For reference we hike and camp in bear country, usually with the threat of variable weather, rain, snow, river crossings, and in wild country. We avoid crowds and sometimes hike without trails. Normally I go with girlfriends but once a year tend to go alone. Over the year I tend to camp close to the snowline, in the alpine, and summit peaks close to camp. Ticks are not an issue for us being so cold, but other wildlife is, so keeping scent-free is very important. I hope our gear guide is helpful, please let me know if you have any specific questions! A few links may be affiliate but are meant as a guide as to where you can buy the product. I do not promote one brand above others and have purchased most of the gear myself.

    Whiskey rocking her Palisades Ruffwear bags and K9topcoat base layer

    The BASICS

    Dog leash- Wilderdog– I love gear that’s multi-purpose especially if I’m needing to carry it in on my back up a mountin! Wilderdog uses climbing rope and real locking carabiners. I’ve used the leash for everything from hanging a bear bag, lifting up my pup up some steep sections (from the harness, not neck), to even installing my tire chains. We’ve used the leashes for several years and they’re in top condition.

    Hiking Pack- Ruffwear Palisades Pack– My love of this bag matches the love of my own Osprey. I love LOVE how the packs can come off and on so easily so we can take it off during food breaks. I ask Whiskey to carry a hefty load on multidays and every break she can get really helps. The harness underneath is perfect for summiting trips so I don’t need to bring another piece of gear. It’s good to note that we did break one of the tiny buckles that secures the bag onto the side of the dog (it’s not a major problem), and I’ve been too lazy to ask for a replacement buckle. The material of the bag also does rub and wear overtime on bushes and trees but overall I’m just so impressed by the ease of this product.

    So much gear needed for backcountry camping, but so worth it

    Harness- Ruffwear Flagline Dog Harness– Whiskey doesn’t tend to pull but if you’re hiking all day long on-leash it’s much more comfortable for everyone if your pup is on a harness, especially around mountain tops and technical scrambles. Bourbon is new to technical scrambles so I would always recommend a handle on the harness to help your dog up sections and have the easiest way to grip them should they slip (also easiest for a friend to help as well). If you’re even thinking you may need a harness, I would always recommend one with a handle.

    Tent– Depending on the size of your dog, you may need to go up one person size of your tent (ie if you’re two people with one large dog you may need a 3ppl tent). I also highly recommend NOT getting an UL tent as the mesh on those are so easily torn with dog paws. Whiskey loves to “knock” on the mesh to ask to be let in and out and also to say hi to friends in the morning. UL tents also have snaggier zippers which aren’t good if you need to unzip in a pinch for a pee break/barf emergency.

    I use vintage Marmot tents that are really heavy compared to what’s available these days but I just find the doors are huge, zippers are great, and the material lasts so well. Our 3 person Ajax tent has been under a foot of snow, in all conditions and we’ve had it for a decade now. I also highly recommend that you leave the bottom of the tent unzippered and teach your dog how to go in and out without having to ask you to unzip and zip each time. I’m totally resigned to the fact my tent’s going to be messy with dogs so I just keep my clothes in the corners. Lastly even if the evening calls for blue skies, consider bringing the fly unless you’re sure your dog won’t be bothered by watching the outdoors. I find most dogs sleep better when they cannot see outside.

    The Klymit Moon Dog Mat

    Klymit Moon Dog Mat– A really tough blow up mat that makes all the difference when the ground is cold, or you just want a comfortable spot to put your pup. Like humans, dogs lose so much heat from the ground so having an elevated surface really helps. I don’t bring the outer cloth layer anymore as it just adds bulk and weight and I’ll almost always bring a doggy sleeping bag instead. The mat is also great in canoes or anywhere else you want a mat that’s waterproof. I love the inflation system and I’m not even nervous about dog nails on these tough mats.

    The Whlyd River Sleeping Bag that I carry on colder hikes

    Whlyd River sleeping bag– Discount code: WHISKEY10
    the best and warmest doggy sleeping bag out there. There’s so many options to adjust the bag to your needs and dog’s comfort, and a strap at the bottom to keep the bag on a mat. Available in 3 sizes we use Medium, Whiskey loves her bag and crawls right on as soon as I pull it out. There should be a down UL bag coming soon (the original uses synthetic insulation which is better for damp/wet conditions) that I would also totally recommend if you need to go light and don’t need the ultimate warmth the original provides. I use the UL bag during the day and slip the bag over the footbed of my own sleeping bag to keep me warm Whiskey Whiskey crawls in to join me. Another sidenote is that I normally take off most of Whiskey’s jackets if she’s going under the sleeping bag so she can warm up and so any dampness (it’s always damp where we are) doesn’t keep her cold.

    Gundogsupply collar– We have lots of fancy collars but tend to go to these basic collars with nameplates. I’ve lost too many collar tags to trust them and if for some reason I lose a dog, I want to know my contact information is going to be on her collar. The collars are super tough and reasonably priced.

    Our Ajax Marmot tent has lasted over a decade

    the Human

    Klymit extra wide sleeping bag– Whiskey sleeps in my sleeping bag with me at night (the dog mat and sleeping bag are for the rest of the time we are at camp because I don’t’ want her crawling in and out of my sleeping bag during the day). I haven’t found many options for extra wide bags and this one is amazing. It fits Whiskey and I with room to spare (I’ll report back if I can fit Bourbon as well) and comes in two warmth options. Please do note that when Whiskey’s in my bag I cannot keep the face section tightened so although Whiskey does add extra heat, the open bag does make it colder at the same time. Also, I take of Whiskey’s collar and clothing before she shares my bag so we don’t get tangled!

    Nemo Sleeping mat– Not a dog thing, but I find if I’m sleeping with a dog my mat needs to be higher, wider, and more comfortable since we’ll both be moving around. I love this mat and it’s been much warmer than other mats of the same warmth rating.

    for more Human hiking gear, here’s a more detailed post

    the Kitchen

    Dog bowl- I’ve tried the soft collapsible bowls but they break much easier (of two I’ve had both had holes from the dogs pawing at them). The fabric ones last but they’re a pain to clean when you feed something messy and leave food smells for the animals. I’m still looking for the perfect dog bowl!

    DogFood- I highly recommend Open Farm Freeze Dried Raw (code WHISKEY10). It’s super lightweight, comes with a suitable package (so you don’t need to repack), I use half of her daily allowance for recall treats, and Whiskey’s poops are always so good.

    Trying out my vintage 4 season tent, Whiskey chowing down on dinner with her dog mats

    Earth Rated Poop Bags- Use the compositable bags and dispose of dog poop when you also need to go (in a proper waste management method like a cat hole). Bring a freezer zip lock bag to place the poop until you can dispose of them so you don’t have an “accidents”. I normally ask Whiskey to carry her own.

    Bear Bag- Ursack- If you are camping in bear or critter country without suitable bear boxes, animals can easily get into your food at night. I really suggest these bear and critter proof bags to keep your food and seal it in a scent-proof bag (drybag) if you can. They’re heavy and an nuisance to carry but it also means you’re not attracting and feeding wildlife, putting yourself in danger, making sure your campsite stays open, and of course that your food isn’t eaten.

    My Ursack poking through the bottom of my frost covered tent

    the Extras

    night light dog collar– There are clip on lights for dogs in the evenings but I’ve preferred these light up collars as others can see it’s a dog easier (it’s so scary if your dog walks by someone else’s campsite at night but much less threatening if they look like they’re ready to party). It’s also less likely that your dog may turn around and the light is obscured.

    Bug Protection- I’ve tried everything and nothing “natural” works for more than 5 mins. If it’s bad I’ll keep Whiskey in the tent, cover her with a jacket/blanket, or put a jacket on her that I’ve sprayed with DEET. Otherwise you just have to keep moving. I believe Hurtta makes a bug suit but I’ve never tried it as Whiskey’s not allergic.

    Winter camping involves more gear, but cabin winter camping is at least tent-less

    Dog jackets- We’ve done loads of reviews on dog jackets but I didn’t want to ignore the need of protection in the evening when the temperature drops. Like humans it’s good to have layers, fleece, waterproof options, and maybe even a base layer depending on where you are going. The doggy bag is super warm but if you’re going to be out for long periods of time, having options is always great!

    H2O4K9 Stainless Steel K9 Water Bottle– the “insulated” leaks- I normally carry a water bladder and hike in locations with loads of water so I don’t normally ever need to carry water for Whiskey. However if you do need a dog water bottle, this is the best one I’ve found. You can pour the unused water right back in so nothing is wasted and the lid doesn’t add much weight and works really well for Whiskey.

    Sometimes I bring too much! This hike I have my boat and paddles attached to my bag

    First Aid

    Paw Wax- Pup Wax– I keep a tiny tin and apply on my pups paws at night while giving the paws a close inspection especially on rocky and long multi-days. It’s so important to check their paws as much as possible because if you can catch a cut early and boot it, you can save yourself the trip, a rescue call, or carrying your dog the rest of the way. Try and make it a nightly ritual! You can also apply to sunburnt noses and your own hands and feet if they’ve been overworked.

    Allergy Pills- I keep Benedryl and Reactine with me on most hikes. Allergy reactions are one of the most common issues (wasps, bugs, plants, etc). It’s good to know your dog’s dose of the drugs and write them down.

    Activated Charcoal– Eating human feces with THC is highly poisonous and getting more common. Write your dog’s dose of charcoal and keep on hand if you are on a busier campground/trail/bike trail. I’m the crazy dog owner that goes out of my way to inform anyone I see smoking that my dog can die if they don’t dig a deep enough cat hole.

    Duct Tape/Zip lock baggy/bandages- These are part of my normal human first aid kit that I find the most useful crossover to dogs. Duct tape can help wounds, make booties, mend broken gear. Zip lock bags (go for the freezer ones) are useful in so many ways but can help keep something waterproof. Bandages are self explanatory!

    Whiskey wearing her emergency bootie (she had a small cut) on a lunch break (packs off)

    Booties– I normally bring an emergency bootie on long or serious camp trips. Boots that fit every single paw is best if you don’t want to bring the entire set so we go with Muttlucks (I can strap on really tightly and kept one on for 5 days of backcountry last year). If there’s any reason you may suspect your dog may need boots outside of an emergency (bad cut on glass for example) then bring an entire set and stay on the safer side.

    Garmin InReach Device– should anything happen on your hike where you would need help (or come across someone else that may need help), you can communicate out of reception with any cell phone number or email (as well as SOS emergency systems). You can also track your location with GPS and check weather systems coming in.

    Emergency Harness- I mention this as it’s something my friends have been pondering, some buying. You need to have some way to carry out your own dog should they become injured or sick. Whiskey’s just over 50lbs and I can carry her slowly over short distances on my shoulders and I do prefer that over a harness situation. Regardless, make sure you have a way to carry your dog and that you practice it before you need to. If you don’t regularly bring an emergency harness, practice carrying your dog over your shoulders (behind your neck) with their legs on either side so your dog feels comfortable and so you can get in and out of the position.

  • Best PNW Human Gear for Hiking with Dogs

    Best PNW Human Gear for Hiking with Dogs

    I’ve been hiking for a couple decades, try a ton of different gear, in all weathers and am REALLY TOUGH with my gear. With dogs, little balance, bad knees, and a good amount of tolerance to rain and snow, I can safely say this is gear I use and trust my life on. I’ll write another post on my camping gear, so this is aimed at day hikes in all weathers, mostly in rainy or potentially rainy weather where conditions change quickly.

    I’ve been hiking for awhile and have gone through so much gear (including updating this backpack here)

    Tough Gear > Lightweight Gear
    With dog nails, my own clumsiness, and the tendency here to always be climbing hard rock, lightweight gear just does not last.

    Layers > Heavy single solution
    Because my hikes can take me through sunshine, to pouring rain, to hail, then snow, then sun again, perhaps with a couple mountains, layers are all important. I can go from shorts and tshirt to jacket weather really quickly passing by an exposed section of alpine, or a lunch stop while the rain rolls in. Merino wool is key with a waterproof shell can be key for not only your chest, but legs, feet, and head.

    Expensive Brands with reliable Warranty > Cheaper No Name Brands
    Over the years I’ve worn down or bought expensive clothing that hasn’t stood up to what I expected. As I’m getting more conscious of environmental impact of cheap clothing, I find that the price per clothing PER USE is what I try to keep in mind. A cheaper jacket may only last a year but an expensive one can last 5 (that’s a miracle for hiking gear for me) and when that jacket stops working after 5 years sometimes a good brand may fix it for you. It may not the an option for everyone but please keep in mind the cost PER USE of an item vs the upfront cost and if you can, support brands that try and fix their clothing.

    Clothing

    Arc’teryx Jacket with Keb Pants (one vent opened) with Salomon Quest 4D GTX Hiking Boots
    • Fjallraven Keb Pants
      • I love these pants. I live in them most of the year when it’s not super cold or super warm. They have two air vents on either side that I use nearly every hike, as well as gigantic pockets for treats and lens caps. There’s so many pockets I lose my car keys! I use the clips at the bottom as gaiters (not for crazy hikes but good enough) and they’re both comfortable and long-lasting. I cannot recommend them enough.
    • Merino Wool base layers! This is key no matter what brand you go with, make sure that the percentage of wool is high or I do find that the clothing picks up scent a bit more. My favorites are Mia Short sleeves Brooke 1/4 zip (base layers) and Avery leggings as a base layer
    • Icebreaker Quantum Hoodie
      • I’ve owned 6 of these over time. It’s the perfect hoodie for me- thinner, zip up pockets, hood that zips to chin, hand sleeves that convert to semi-mittens
    • Fingerless convertible glove/mittens
      • They don’t look great but I haven’t found any other better option than these Amazon gloves (please let me know if you know some!) They’re stretchy, sized for females, and aren’t horrible in wet.
    • Merino wool socks (any good brand, majority must be merino)
      • The first thing to get when you start hiking are merino socks. Wet feet or damp feet lead to blisters and a miserable day! Make sure you have a backup on longer hikes or wet hikes with river crossings
    • Arc’teryx Alpha/Beta Rain SV Jacket
      • SV is for Severe weather. I live in rain for most of the year and my dog walks in 2 hour daily walks+ rainy hikes +all day rainy camp trips+ bushwhacking +river paddle trips counts as Severe! Yes these jackets are jaw droppingly expensive but I’ve tested and used their warranty several times. They actually stand by their gear and replace them if they leak. Since Gore-Tex really doesn’t last forever, it’s worth it for me to know my jacket will be replaced if I get a leaky one (I have unsuccessfully tried to replace Helly Hanson and North Face Gore Tex and only had a smooth replacement with Arc’teryx so now I’ll stick to this local brand).
    • Fjallraven Bergtagen Eco-shell
      • Because Gore-tex is so bad for the environment (look it up!) This is a nice Eco-friendly option. I have yet to test their fix/return policy!

    Shoes

    WoolX top, Keb Pants, Salomon Quest 4D GTX Hiking Boots
    • Salomon Quest 4D GTX Hiking Boots
      • For snowy, rainy, muddy, and overnight hikes with weight on my back
      • Waterproof, no break-in period, super comfortable, most of my friends use these
      • I tend to go through 1-2 pairs a year, but I probably hike more than most, I’ve been wearing these for at least 5 years
    • Salomon Quest XA Pro 3D GTX Hiking Shoes
      • For those summer hikes without snow or deep mud
      • great grip on rocks, even in the rain, very solid and stable
      • the laceless system is amazing
      • a bit less comfortable around my ankles than the boots I have
    • Asolo TPS 520 Goretex Hiking boots
      • These are my winter boots when I need something rigid or for any activities in the backcountry that doesn’t involve long days of hiking (they’re heavier than the Salomon boots)
    • Native Chamonix Basecamp
      • Great car shoes or hut shoes. It means so much to come back to a car after a long 12 hour hiking day or multi-day and change into clouds on your feet.
      • I’ve tried different kinds of car shoes but since I’m usually hiking back to a forest road, with potential 4wding and puddles, I don’t like open shoes anymore if I need to jump in and out of my car (it’s so stupid to get a toe injury AFTER the hike!). Slip on shoes rule!

    Bags

    Osprey Ariel 65 with a WoolX top and leggings, Hillsound Trail Crampon Ultras and gaiters, photo by Ngaio Hotte
    • Osprey Women’s Verve 9 (Closest to now Raven 10)
      • I love this bag so much for shorter summer hikes. The backstraps are sufficient to carry weight, it fits my DSLR, has extra compartments to fit a scary amount of items, and water compartment as well as waist strap. With my camera clip, I can carry my camera on the front strap and 2 extra lenses with bear spray, clothing layers, water, and food. It doesn’t look pretty but it works.
    • Osprey Mira 34 (now 32)
      • I carry this less now because I can fit so much in the Verve bag. I use the 34L for day hikes that need a bunch of extra layers, safety gear, camera gear, etc. It’s also better if I’m scrambling and don’t want many things hanging off my bag, or if I’m taking significant weight.
    • Fjallraven Absiko Hike 15
      • Great for smaller local walks, the bag looks so much nicer than the Osprey ones and fits my DSLR with extras.
    • Osprey Ariel 65 (I tried the Aura but switched) **new version only 70L** now seems to have a convertible lid to backpack
      • A big reason I switched from Aura was that top compartment convertible lid to backpack that I use very very often. The pack is super comfortable and I’ve loaded it to the max, using all the extra straps.

    Safety

    Helmet, Woolx top, Knee brace and Salomon Quest 4D GTX Hiking Boots with the Osprey Verve 9
    • Bear Spray
      • We live in bear country, I’ve never used one on a bear, but it’s about the only protection we can carry for a charging bear (guns are not allowed)
    • First Aid kit
      • self made- different sizes for different types of adventures
      • don’t forget pills! Anti allergy and pain/swelling relief pills especially
      • Most things are shared for humans and animals
      • For dogs, an emergency bootie, duct tape, activated charcoal,
    • Garmin InReach Mini
      • For communication outside of cell reception
      • For GPS tracking on trailess hikes
      • For emergency services for yourself or others
      • To check the weather out of service per hour
    • Salt sticks
      • for dehydration and loss of electrolytes
      • I’m not a fan of adding things to my water so I prefer edibles
      • easy to share with others!
    • Knee Brace Bauerfeind Genutrain (not the Sports knee)
      • I have a meniscus tear from 5 years ago and my knee can swell up without this. The price is worth it, it makes an enormous difference over cheaper ones you get at a drugstore. The Sports version is not the same, so get the Genutrain
    • Battery Pack
      • Battery pack with usb for at least 1 charge on the phone (also charges my headlamp and my InReach device)
    • Katadyn Befree Water filter
      • really quick filtering but not long-lasting
      • super lightweight and easy to use
      • Get the 3L bag if you have a choice, especially on camping trips
      • I’ve tried MSR handpump (takes too long, too many parts that can break), the sawyer squeeze (takes too long, bags are frustrating, but lasts longer and easier to clean than Befree), and tablets (doesn’t get rid of sediment and you need a certain size bag of water). Overall, if I have the Befree the entire group will use it because it’s faster and easier but I will have a backup on bigger trips. I’ve still yet to find the perfect filter…
    • Helmet
      • For scrambles where rocks can tumble onto someone else’s head
    • AllTrails App (or similar GPS device or App)
      • The pro version allows you to download offline maps. I’ve used these maps countless times over my hikes to assist in understanding where a trail was, where FSRs are, how to get back onto trails, and where best in rugged terrain to aim for.
      • no APP or device will help if you don’t know how to use them and how to navigate with them. They can also fail and not be accurate in mountains or valleys where there is interception of reception from satellites. Having a trip plan ahead of time, backup paper maps, batteries, and knowledge of terrain is extremely important and lifesaving.

    Winter Extras

    Hillsound Gaiters and Crampon Pro
    • Hillsound Crampons
      • I use the Hillsound Trail Crampon Ultra for most hikes that have varried terrain, or when I need to carry crampons “just in case”. I used to buy cheaper Amazon ones but after breaking 4 pairs I switched to these that are better made and support their products. Size up if you are wearing winter boots!
      • I use Hillsound Trail Crampon Pro when the entire hike is in the snow with little exposed rock. They provide more stability and will not ball up snow, and are easier to wear as they are rigid.
    • Hillsound Gaiters
      • These are a good balance of tough and light. I tend to prefer slightly heavier gear that’s a bit tougher than super lightweight because I bushwack, have dogs, and ruin anything lightweight.
    • Hydroflask
      • A warm sip of tea is worth so much on top of a mountain! These stay so warm you’ll be waiting to cool them off before sipping.
      • Also super important they do not leak and are tough enough to withstand a ton of wacking against rocks
    • Fenix HL60R Headlamp
      • The same story as most of my gear! After trying out a bunch of cheaper headlamps I bought the Fenix HL60R. It’s rechargeable with usb (I carry an extra battery pack that covers this), is super bright, waterproof, doesn’t accidentally turn on in my bag, and I’ve never had an issue with it.
    • Ice Axe
      • I’ve never had to use it to self arrest but there have been enough situations where we’ve walked past an avalanche zone, or been hiking up a steep enough snow slope that I wished I had this.
    • Backcountry Access Shovel
      • Who knew a shovel would be so useful? When not out on avalanche terrain, I try and keep this in my car. We’ve helped dig out enough cars including my own that this has been a super worthy investment.
    • Probe
      • Part of my avalanche gear, you need a probe over 3m in our terrain here. AST1 course is needed before you venture out into our backcountry
    • Barryvox Transceiver
      • I have an older version for avalanche areas. I now feel stupid for hiking in areas with even a small bit of exposure without this.
    All my avi gear, WoolX top, Garmin Inreach Mini, photo by Ngaio Hotte

    Hiking Poles

    • Leki MCT 12 Vario Carbon WS
      • I used a Black Diamond Shock pole for 6 years without issues and then switched to the FLZ treking poles because of the lightness and quick breakdown which I DO NOT RECOMEND as I broke two pairs (I also had to hack it for winter baskets). Then I switched to the Leki which so far has been wonderful but these poles do not allow winter baskets so now I use a cheap telescoping Black Diamond set for the winter.

    Boats

    • Oru Kayak
      • I have the Beach and Bay model. With dogs the Beach is by far the best! You can fit so many dogs in as well as camera gear and the boat is quick (5mins) to set up and down (3mins) as well as stable and easy to use, best of all, packs up into a backpack.
      • code WHISKEY10
    • Alpaka Packraft
      • At 10lbs the Explorer 42 boat can carry 2 people, 3 dogs (uncomfortably) or any amount of gear (weight up to 800lbs). I’ve carried this model up mountains and been the only one on the water. It’s wonderful for river crossings, hunting, bike trips, etc. Super stable and totally fine with dog nails, it blows up quickly with a big in under 5mins. However because it’s a raft it will go with the wind/waterflow and will spin if you stop paddling (ie it’s hard to take photos from in large water)
    • Novacraft Canoe
      • Their TuffStuff models are TOUGH! We have dragged these boats up and down rocky cliffs, dropped them from heights, and they’re very impressive. They’re also light enough I can portage easily and our 16ft fits a large amount of dogs without issue (we’ve fit 4 in, it was an adventure).

    Personal Extras

    • Peak Design Capture camera clip
      • Peak design camera clip to hold up my camera while hiking on my backpack. I get asked about this all the time. I now have two clips so I don’t have to keep moving it from bag to bag and I really love this option!
    • SunRype fruit snacks
      • Seems silly but I normally have a couple of these in my bag. They’re great if you need an energy boost, not dry so it’s easy to eat and digest if you are dehydrated, and doesn’t freeze easily so it’s great all year round (freezing food is an issue!).
    • Zazubean chocolate
      • Chocolate bars that are local, ethical, healthy, what more could you ask?
    • Open Farm Freeze Dried Raw
      • Not for humans, but if I want my dogs to stick around, and also for emergency food/snacks, these are lightweight, healthy (who wants runny poops outside?), and every single dog I petsit likes it.
      • code WHISKEY10