The Dog Walks Me

Category: Indoors

  • Adding a Second Dog, How Introducing our Vizsla Puppy Went

    Adding a Second Dog, How Introducing our Vizsla Puppy Went

    Thinking about adding a second dog? Here’s I went through the journey, thoughts and what I learned through the process with my second Vizsla.

    Things to Think About

    I had been wanting to add a second dog for the longest time, but I really wanted to get it right. First I wanted to wait until Whiskey was fully trained and reliable with other dogs. Once she was 2 years, I really started thinking about a second but it took a couple years to convince my husband! After a couple more years, I realized Whiskey’s breeder wasn’t breeding anymore so I had to start my search for a breeder again.

    There were 2 years where I was on the list for another breeder with close lines to Whiskey, but 4 breedings just did not work. A couple didn’t take, there was one litter of 3 boys one girl that was called for (I was set on a girl, here are reasons why), and one litter only had a single. After waiting for awhile I decided to search for another breeder and that journey took another 1 year. At this time Whiskey was 5 years old when I finally met Alpine Vizslas and got on the list for Vixen’s (Bourbon’s mom) last litter.

    Bourbon at 8 weeks

    During this journey of finding the right breeder, I had been pet-sitting as many dogs, especially female Vizsla dogs as I could. I wanted Whiskey to get used to the idea of sharing space and attention with other dogs, and for us to get used to how much work a second dog would be. It’s SO much easier pet-sitting another dog when your first is very reliable. Whiskey could be off leash heeling while I dealt with a second dog off-leash and I could pay 90% of my attention on the second dog while assuming Whiskey would make good decisions.

    Bourbon with her littermates

    At home, I knew Whiskey didn’t guard resources like food or people, and that although she didn’t love puppies, she would tolerate them, growling but not biting. Even when pushed Whiskey would growl and growl and eventually give up and let a puppy sit on her or take her toys. The one thing Whiskey did seem to have an issue with, is attention and discipline. She has issues with alpha females taking the attention of her humans, and can also be grumpy if dogs are not following the rules. By the time we introduced Bourbon, we had worked through so many of Whiskey’s emotions that we had a blueprint about what to do in most circumstances.

    Bourbon and Whiskey, second day together

    The Preparation

    Once I knew we were getting a puppy, I tried to dog-sit as much as possible readying Whiskey. Also, Covid became a thing, and threw a wrench into plans of visiting the puppies with Whiskey (or at all). There was so much turmoil about how to actually get Bourbon across the border, I wasn’t even sure it would happen at some points.

    Knowing that a new puppy would be very exciting, and that Whiskey needed so much attention, we decided that the best thing would be to introduce Bourbon to the house while Thierry was out on a roadtrip with Whiskey. That way I could get Bourbon used to a new house, new yard, new life, and then introduce Whiskey a couple days later.

    First week together

    The Introduction

    When Whiskey came back home, we met outside (it’s always better to introduce dogs outside) and I asked Thierry to pick up fast-food. Whiskey LOVES food and doesn’t resource guard the food so I wanted to feed her something extra yummy while Bourbon got to meet Whiskey. It went really well! Whiskey was focused on the food, while Bourbon was focused on Whiskey and we both paid all the attention on Whiskey so she didn’t feel like she was missing out.

    After the introduction (about 25mins outside), we went in and Whiskey went around the house sniffing Bourbon everywhere. For the first 2 weeks, Bourbon slept with me in my office, and Whiskey slept with Thierry in our bedroom. This was because I wanted to introduce Bourbon to the crate slowly, and it wasn’t fair to have Whiskey sleep in the crate but not Bourbon.

    First months

    After a couple years of training Whiskey, I had stopped using treats all the time but with a new puppy, I had to use treats everyday. I found that training the two dogs together built a bond, and a good relationship between the two. Whiskey loves training, and Bourbon would pick up quickly with Whiskey, so they both got treats for being around each other and focusing on me. Whiskey learned there were always treats with Bourbon around, and she got big extra treats for letting Bourbon touch her, or sleep next to her. Whiskey also got lots of praise and rewards for tolerating Bourbon’s antics and playing with her.

    On a short hike with Bourbon and Whiskey

    Whiskey also got lots of time away from Bourbon. She had separate walks away from the puppy (as much as I could) and I always asked everyone to greet Whiskey before Bourbon. Overall their relationship developed quicker and better than I expected. Whiskey never played with puppies, merely tolerated them but after a week, she was playing with Bourbon and letting her sleep with her.

    Bourbon was absolutely in love with Whiskey. Since she was taken from her littermates, Whiskey was the one dog in her presence and because of Covid, we weren’t able to meet too many puppies (and always outside). Apart from the first meeting, Whiskey never growled at Bourbon and was extremely tolerant of her shark teeth.

    Whiskey tolerating Bourbon’s lack of modelling abilities

    The two were never left alone without supervision (or without Bourbon in a crate) and play was always closely watched. Because Bourbon could be a little devil, we would remove her from Whiskey if she was too much, and give Bourbon time outs. Whiskey was always quite happy when we put Bourbon in the crate for time outs giving me kisses!

    One of the biggest recommendations I got from others about introducing a second dog, was to make sure we spent lots of time with the first dog one on one. Because Bourbon was too young to hike, Whiskey got lots of hikes with me, without Bourbon, and once Bourbon was old enough, she went to daycare to meet other dogs and on pack hikes.

    A Year after

    I feel like each dog has their own personalities but both my girls find comfort in each other now. Whiskey has a small amount of separation anxiety that Bourbon doesn’t have, and Bourbon is timid with challenges and new dogs. They each help the other deal with their own anxieties and become more confident. This could definitely go either way (they could pick up each other’s anxieties instead), but through a mixtures of luck and training, they’ve helped each other become better dogs.

    Whiskey still helps Bourbon with physical challenges

    I try and use the dog that doesn’t have anxiety to help the other through something difficult. Whiskey will wait on a bridge and cross it over and over again, while Bourbon will slowly work up her courage to try for it. Bourbon will keep Whiskey company when she could be lonely waiting for us to return.

    Bourbon decided she liked to hug Whiskey

    Adding a Third Dog?

    Everyone keeps asking when the third will come! For now I will happily pet-sit all the dogs but for many reasons 2 is where we are at. Financially, it’s not currently possible, and then only 2 dogs fit into my sleeping bag, and barely that! I also only have 2 arms for 2 leashes and I’m not confident yet with Bourbon’s recall and reliability. We recently got to look after Merlin, the wirehaired Vizsla puppy and I absolutely loved it. The girls were great and everyone got along so well, however, I got absolutely no work done, and the amount of time and training a new dog takes is quite literally another job. For now, two!

    Merlin the puppy was the cutest
  • Vizsla Basics: 101 Guide to Everything You Need to Know

    Vizsla Basics: 101 Guide to Everything You Need to Know

    Here’s the Vizsla basics, the Vizsla FAQs, the starting block, the page that answers questions about the Hungarian Vizsla you didn’t know you would be asking

    Breed: What is a Vizsla?

    Where is a Vizsla from?

    Vizslas originated from Hungary and is their national dog. They’re from the Magyar tribes, then owned by warlords and then the aristocracy (sometimes they’re called the Magyar Vizsla). The noble dog almost went extinct after civil and world wars and were thankfully saved and are now very popular with a devoted following in both Europe and North America (as well as Australia). Vizslas are one of the best pointer-retriever dogs that need to be part of the family and does not do well living in a kennel.

    What is a Vizsla a mix of?

    Vizslas are one of the oldest breeds and have actually been used in development of other breeds. Weimaraners, German Shorthaired Pointers, and many other breeds have had the Vizsla bloodlines to thank.

    Vizslas in show

    Can you get a miniature Vizsla?

    No, Vizslas are only recognized in one size and are bred to a standard. Here’s more information about the breed standard and what ethical breeders aim for. There are variations of course, and dogs that are larger or smaller in certain litters.

    What group does Vizslas belong to?

    Vizslas are part of the Sporting Group. Sporting dogs are well rounded companions. Vizslas are extremely versatile dogs that are used for hunting, various dog sports, rescue work, detection, and therapy. They are natural pointers and retrievers.

    Vizslas are bred to hunt, point and retrieve

    Are Vizslas hypoallergenic?

    No, in short they are not but they do not shed very much and their hair does not clump up in visible balls. Overall the breed does not produce a high amount of allergens compared to other breeds but some allergic people can tolerate these dogs.

    What size is a Vizsla? How much does a Vizsla weigh?

    Here’s a detailed blogpost I wrote about the size and weight of Vizslas

    Vizslas are beautiful dogs and a medium size, the smallest of the pointers

    What is the life expectancy of a Vizsla?

    Vizslas tend to live from 12-15 years. They’re overall a healthy breed, although this will vary depending on the breeder. Please find an ethical breeder that breeds for health (both physical and mental).

    How fast is a Vizsla?

    Vizslas have been said the be the second fastest breed (to greyhounds) depending on what you read. Individuals have been clocked at 40mph/65kmph! Vizslas are even faster than other breeds over uneven ground. No matter the exact speed and how they’ve been calculated, Vizslas are extremely fast dogs and have the endurance that greyhounds do not. This makes for great difficulty and can be dangerous if you do not have the ability to recall your dog. On the other hand, they’re wonderful for active runners, bikers, and hikers.

    Do Vizslas eyes stay blue? When do Vizslas eyes turn brown?

    No, Vizsla puppies are born with blue eyes that turn green, then finally amber. The full amber coloring may come quicker at 6 months or take up to 2 years. Ask your breeder about the parents and you might have a better idea of the timing although grown does also depend on the health of the dog.

    blue-green eyes will change to amber

    Vizsla Temperament

    Where do you buy a Vizsla? How do I get a Vizsla?

    Typically there are the choices of a breeder, or a rescue. I really don’t recommend a rescue unless you have experience with dogs, especially this breed if the rescue is showing behavioral issues. I do see rare cases of young Vizslas being given up because they are too energetic or senior Vizslas because they’re just no longer wanted. Well bred Vizslas should go back to their breeders to be rehomed but it’s not always the case. If you’d like a Vizsla puppy, a breeder would be where to look and here’s more on finding a breeder.

    Alpine Vizslas where I got my puppy from

    Do Vizslas bond to one person? Do they have a favorite person?

    I don’t typically see this as the case, although if one person is the main caretaker and trainer, it would be logical for the Vizsla to bond better with that person. It’s typical of the breed, and my own dogs to love people and for them to gravitate towards people, even strangers if they seem friendly.

    Do Vizslas fetch?

    Vizslas are bred to point and retrieve although not all puppies will have a natural fetch. Some may, and others might have to be taught. Whiskey did not naturally fetch but once I taught her, she became obsessed. Bourbon will only fetch when she thinks it’s her idea to play a game inside the house.

    Will my Vizsla run away?

    What is “running away”? Like most hunting breeds, Vizslas tend to have prey drive and are interested in tracking scents. They are friendly social dogs that do like to say hi to other people and other dogs and explore their environment. As an intelligent and energetic breed, Vizslas can get bored and lonely and find their fun elsewhere. Vizslas can also fixate on prey and chase deer, birds, or other prey for long distances. Lastly Vizslas are a sensitive breed that can have anxiety or be frightened if not properly socialized to sounds or events and run off to escape, or to find their owners if separated. So, yes there reasons that a Vizsla may leave you, it is a matter of understanding why, and mitigating the issues.

    Do Vizslas whine alot?

    Vizlsas are intelligent, opinionated, sensitive, and affectionate. If they are not receiving the attention or treats, or life that they feel like they need, they will inform you so. My two girls rarely whine, we have a communication between us that is clear and does not involve whining but if I encouraged it, I’m sure there would be much whining in the house!

    What food is best for a Vizsla? What should I feed my Vizsla?

    Food is such a hot topic! There is kibble (and a HUGE variety of quality and types), canned food, home-cooked, commercial raw food, and DYI raw food. There’s also lots of options in-between. My suggestion is to ask your breeder, your vet, experienced owners with a history of healthy dogs, canine dietitians and research scientifically peer reviewed papers. Lastly, know and see what works with your dog. If the poop is mush, if the coat is dull, skin is itchy, and the energy level low, there is a problem. Don’t feed something your dog does not digest well, even if it’s the most recommended food of the month. Feed what your dog does well on, what you can afford, and you can always throw in some healthy leftovers too!

    Food is very dependent on your personal decisions

    How long until Vizslas are grown adult dogs?

    Vizslas are pretty much physically fully grown at 1.5-2 years old. However, sometimes their brains take a bit longer to catch up. Some Vizslas take longer to mentally mature than others. My eldest Vizsla was a super mature puppy that had the temperament of a senior. My youngest Vizsla Bourbon is still puppy-brained at 2.5 years old (although sometimes she seems like an adult, other times she’s full puppy).

    What’s wrong with my Vizsla?

    Is my Vizsla depressed?

    Has there been a large change in your Vizsla’s temperament? If your habits have not changed, take stock of what may have changed. Vizslas are very sensitive to emotions and their environment and can pick up on changes you may not realize. If you’re certain nothing has changed but your Vizsla is not eating, low energy, shaking, or scared, or just not loving life like before, perhaps it’s time to go to the vet.

    Vizslas are very emotive

    Why does my Vizsla grumble?

    Vizlsas are intelligent, opinionated, sensitive, and very needy. They love to communicate their needs and wants and can sometimes be considered a very “human” dog. Look into their eyes and see their expressions and tell me you cannot tell what they’re thinking! Vizslas grumble and talk to communicate with you and others.

    Why is my Vizsla shaking?

    Assuming your Vizsla is not shivering (this breed only has one coat of hair so gets cold very quickly), there can be many reasons your dog is shaking. Fear is usually the most obvious one, followed by anxiety. Sensitive individuals will shake more than others. Bourbon, my youngest shakes all the time. She shakes when she’s scared (when there’s a loud BANG), when she anticipates something bad happening (when we go to do her nails), and when there’s too much pressure put on her and she is not comfortable (at a competition or at a new equipment). Bourbon’s also noticed that when she shakes, she gets love and attention from humans, so sometimes she shakes to avoid working, to get what she wants, and to manipulate strangers into liking her and giving her attention. This last point is not very typical of the breed, but it is my experience!

    Do Vizslas bite?

    Any dog can bite if cornered and pushed to it’s limits. Vizslas are not known as an aggressive breed that have bite issues however, but any anxious fearful dog that is abused or at it’s limits without other options (like running away) may potentially bite. Poorly bred Vizslas can have aggression in their bloodlines (I’ve known of several), and Vizslas that have had trauma and have been previously attacked can also bite.

    When do Vizslas stop chewing?

    Assuming we are speaking about puppy chewing, the sharkies usually end once the adult teeth have come in. Here’s a diary of my experience.

    How do I wear out my Vizsla?

    Vizslas are one of the most energetic breeds, so hopefully you have selected this breed because you wanted the energy! There’s usually two routes to go and much in-between. There is the physical route, where you can run your Vizsla, and the mental where you can train your Vizsla. Interestingly enough, my Vizslas tired out much quicker from engaging in mental training over physical. Of course there are lots of activities that bridge both, like agility, or search and rescue, so the options really are endless. My advice is to get two things done at once. If you need to tire a Vizsla out that is in recovery or injured, do some canine conditioning with target plates or wobble boards to increase strength at the same time. If you have a young healthy Vizsla, work on recall with a long line around other dogs, or people or even birds.

  • Ultimate Gear for Running with your Dog

    Ultimate Gear for Running with your Dog

    Waist leash

    There are lots of hands-free waist leashes around, but I find the simpler the better. I prefer the ones with a fast easy clip, lightweight, easy to wash, and quick to turn into a hand-leash. For dogs that chew, or larger dogs that lunge, make sure you get a thicker option with clips that withstand strength. There are many circumstances in which I only pull the waist leash out for a short road section on a trail run and want to be able to quickly clip it on and off.

    I also do not like leashes that are too long, because the longer the leash, the less control you have of the dog and the harder the yank if they try and race off. For longer runs, consider a Bungee leash with a bit of give, and for short sections where you need control, consider a shorter leash without stretch. The Ruffwear options have added in a secret poop bag pocket that has saved my butt a couple times!

    The lightest option, easy to throw into a pocket, or two
    thicker webbing, harder to chew
    more economical option than ruffwear
    Great bungee leash for longer leashed runs

    Collar leash

    These are wonderful! I love this on Whiskey because she heels offleash really well but I need a leash for very short sections (around the car, crossing roads, reactive dog, bear). This only works with a dog that has recall because the leash is short and around the dog’s neck. It’s also not good if you want to run with your dog on leash a long distance as it’s too short. This leash is ideal for short moments when you need a close ranging reliable dog in full control in seconds. You reach down and grab the handle and suddenly you have a dog on leash. Not only do you not have to carry a leash, but the size is a perfect traffic length and easy to reattach back.

    Leash comes out when you pull at the velcro

    Harness

    I normally do not use harnesses for running. I run with my dogs mostly off-leash and I’ve taught them not to pull so they don’t strain their necks when I ask for a heel. However, there are times we run longer distances on leash and even a moderate strain on the neck is not ideal.

    For dogs that need to be on-leash or dogs that pull, or a dog that might need a lift, a harness is a great tool. The Ruffwear and Hurtta harnesses have worked well for us and our friends. I would look for a large ring to clip your dog on and off (with large rings you can do it even while running), for a harness that doesn’t chaffe, one your dog cannot slip out of, and something bright.

    Harness Pack

    Even better than a harness, if your dog is large enough, is a harness with small pockets to carry items like poop bags, keys, cards, treats, and….dog poop! Who better to carry the poop around than your dog? Ruffwear makes this harness that has small streamlined pockets that are perfect for runs and carrying small things.

    With a larger dog capable of carrying a small load, this is perfect for runs

    Drybag Poop

    One of the worst aspects of running with dogs is carrying and smelling dog poop on your entire run. Guess what? I’ve found the answer! The Puppouch is a drybag that keeps everything airtight (and watertight). For a better experience, throw it in your dog’s pack and you don’t even have to think about it. The only issue is forgetting about the bags until your next run! That’s right, the poop is so airtight you won’t ever smell it until you take it out again so just don’t forget about it!

    A local company, and totally airtight

    Lights

    Running in the winter or at night (our winters have the sun setting at 3pm sometimes) needs headlamps and dog lights. Even if your dog just runs at your side, dog lights are a courtesy to everyone else that might be on a trail. It can be super scary to hear or see movement on a trail and not know it’s a dog. It’s also great to have different colors for different dogs so you can see whom is whom (and you’re not yelling at the wrong dog). I absolutely recommend dog lights for anyone taking off leash dogs outside in low light. The collars are better than single LED lights because you can see the light from all angles otherwise the dog light can disappear as your dog rotates.

    Human dog hat

    Running with Dogs Hat


    The perfect running hat, lightweight, crushable, quick dry, airy, and washable. The best part? It comes with an option with you chasing a your dog, or your dog chasing you. Which is more accurate? You decide! In addition you’re support this blog and all my work here if you get anything from my shop 🙂 Please take a look!

    Waterbowl

    This has been the lightest, yet waterproof waterbowl I’ve found. It’s small but it does the job and it’s tiny fitting into any crevice or pocket.

    Small light waterbowl

    Musher’s Wax/ Boots

    Assuming you’re not taking your dog running when the pavement is much too hot, you might still need some protective coating on dog paws that may run raw, or over short hot spots. Wax can help a dogs’ paws providing relief and a protective coating. For longer periods, injury, or hot pavement, dog boots may be needed. I’ve got an extended post on winter dog boots, but as we do not run on hot pavement in the summer, I don’t have experience on the summer dog boot options (although some of the winter dog boots are also good for summer).

    Cooling Dog Vest

    To help dogs that overheat in warm weather, cooling vests and bandanas can be helpful. I sometimes carry cooling bandanas in my running pack for my girls on warmer days, or I might drench their ears and paws during water breaks. Cooling vests should be a light color and keep the dog cool for longer than a bandana, however, keep watch for when the vests dry out and if your dog is still too warm. Cooling paws, ears, and throat can help during the run, but please do not go out if your dog is struggling. A cooling harness combines harness and vest. Just keep extra water when there isn’t water sources and avoid the heat if at all possible.

    Ruffwear Cooling Vest
    Kurgo Cooling Vest
    Ruffwear Cooling Harness

    Hi Visibility Jacket

    In areas and trails where you may be passing by others, close to roads, or in lands where others may be hunting, it is helpful to make sure your dog is easily visible. On rainy days, or in locations where my dogs blend in, I make sure I choose jackets that stand out so that people can see them from a distance and understand quickly they are dogs, not coyotes or bears. Choose a jacket or harness that stands out against your dog’s color with reflective fabrics.

    Visibility vest

    Running System

    Because a dog pulling for a length of time on your waist will not be efficient or painless, a way to distribute the pull would be from a proper belt. To take it another step forwards you would be then going onto a full pulling system and become a canicross team. The belts help distribute the pull into your whole body and a proper harness system will reduce the yank. This is quite different than waist belts where you want your dog to run beside you, these belts have your dog running in front.

  • I Hate My Vizsla- Suggestions and Solutions

    I Hate My Vizsla- Suggestions and Solutions

    Do you hate your Vizsla? Think you made a mistake? Guess what? It’s one of my most searched Vizsla terms and it’s not uncommon.

    First, please ask your breeder for help and see if there are any genetic issues at play. Next, make sure your dog is healthy and there are no health issues (dogs will pee in the house or become aggressive have an infection, or are in pain for example). Outside of that, here are some common issues:

    Peeing Everywhere

    Do you have a fresh puppy that just pees inside? Maybe you take her outside for half an hour to potty and she just goes as soon as you get inside? Or maybe it’s raining outside and there’s absolutely no way anything will happen outside? There’s a ton of videos and writeups about how to housetrain a puppy but what you really need is patience. This rare commodity seems extremely unlikely as you spray buckets full of odor remover, buy paper towels in Costco amounts and stand outside in the rain for 30mins at 2am with an umbrella because your puppy just will *not* go.

    It gets better. The description was Whiskey when we lived in an apartment and I had to run down the apartment 3x a night, in the rain, in my PJs. It felt like it took forever while other puppies never had a mistake at home. We had the bell, I would stand with treats, being very boring until she went, and celebrated every time. But guess what? It still took 3 months but since then, there’s never been a mistake. You’re not alone! But it’s a stage that does pass.

    Bourbon with the spray and wipes that we needed

    Puppy Sharkies

    This is the biggest complaint! So many people think they’ve made the biggest mistake when they bring home the cutest puppy imaginable only for that puppy to turn into a shark. It’s called the sharkies when they bite, rip, and attack all moving things with their sharp puppy teeth and ruin shirts, jewelry, furniture, other dogs, and your own skin.

    It’s not an understatement to say sharkies HURT! You wonder why you ever thought this was a good idea, and if they’ll just “grow out of it”. Also, a sharp scream and pulling your hand back whining (to show you are hurt) doesn’t seem to stop the devil. In fact, screams and loud NOs seem to urge the little monster to attack even more!

    Puppies are SO cute but the devil sometimes

    Diverting those sharp teeth to a toy or chew is essential for your survival. I had a bunch of different textured toys and soft chews all over my house, ready to pick up and exchange for my arm. As soon as the teeth touched skin while we played, I would replace with a toy. Play with your puppy using your toys, not your hands! One of the best chew toys are cardboard boxes leftover from Amazon orders. Your house may look like a mess but you’ll save your clothing, furniture, and skin.

    Leaving the litter too soon may also make it harder for your puppy to have a softer mouth when playing. Littermates help puppies learn what is acceptable, as well as older puppy-friendly dogs. Whiskey was really instrumental in helping Bourbon learn what is appropriate play and what was not. If your Vizsla puppy has had enough play, and still insists on attacking you, you have to teach them to settle (self control, and learning their “off” button).

    Inability to Settle Inside

    Does your Vizsla have an off switch? Does your dog just go go go zooming around the house, destroying toys, clothes, and furniture along the way? Maybe he’s running laps jumping off the walls and attacking your other dogs?

    Not all breeds can easily do this, but Vizslas have a genetic predisposition to have an off switch. Herding dogs must stay with their herd and be on guard and protect at all times, so shepherd dogs do not easily switch off. However, Vizslas should be able to settle and the younger you teach them, the easier your life will be. Vizslas were bred to run and hunt, but also to lay around when they weren’t working. You need to teach your dog they are not hunting and it’s time to turn off.

    Settling just fine, FINALLY

    First off, your dog must be tired. If they’ve just woken up and haven’t had a walk or time to play, you’re not going to have too much luck asking them to go back to sleep. Make sure they’ve had enough training, off leash running, and playing before you ask them to settle. For puppies, hold them tight with a calming demeanor, breathing slowly and soothing them to relax. This can take 3mins to half an hour or more the first time. Humming or calm music can help but the key is you must be relaxed and transfer that over. Over time, your dog should calm down, maybe sigh deeply, and relax their muscles. Let them go calmly once you feel the relaxation. Even if your puppy energizes up again, you can repeat the process until they fall asleep or change their energy.

    Older dogs may need crates as it can be much harder to hold a bigger dog. Only let them out once they are calm, and once you are calm too! Your demeanor makes a huge difference. Play some calming music and make sure no one goes near or touches the crate to set them off. Cover the crate to shut out the world and makes sure that it’s comfortable and welcoming. If a chew toy doesn’t energize your dog, you can try one. Do not use a crate as a punishment, but see it as their own safe space to learn to relax. Make sure you let your pups out once they’ve calmed down.

    Destruction and Aggression

    Is your Vizsla dog aggressive? People aggressive? Does he destroy your shoes and clothing? Is he growling at your kids or if you touch her when she’s sleeping?

    Bourbon running away

    Aggression is more serious depending on the severity and issue. For this, get a good trainer that follows the latest techniques and is well respected by other trainers. Even just one session to help you understand the source of issues and a beginning to how to fix some.

    Aggression can come in many forms, and sometimes it is not aggression but lack of exercise or direction. It would be much too hard to diagnose online so please seek help! Sometimes aggression is also genetic as I’ve known backyard breeders or unethical breeders breeding dogs with known aggression. There are many tools to help, but it does take time and effort and lots of patience and understanding.

    Not listening, doesn’t come back

    Goodbye Bourbon

    We’ve all been through it, screaming and yelling and your dog clearly hears you but doesn’t come back. So you yell louder, and more seriously. GET BACK HERE NOW!!!! Unfortunately, recall isn’t taught by screaming louder and louder (who would want to run back to someone screaming like a maniac?).

    Recall is hard. It takes time and it’s made harder and harder with distractions, prey, and distance. I’ve written a whole blogpost about recall, aiming specifically for off leash outdoors. There’s also a challenge to practice with if you’ve got a reliable recall in most situations.

    Jumping on people, dogs

    Does your dog jump up on people? Does he jump on kids, bikes, and tackle other dogs? Maybe she’s extra friendly and likes to meet people face to face? As cute as it can be, it can also be dangerous with the wrong people, kids, or dogs.

    Jumping up on command

    There’s a couple things that can help with constant jumping.

    First off, don’t encourage jumping. If it’s cute when you enter the house and you reward with attention and playing, a dog will get very confused if you then yell at them when they jump on a friend or a child entering the house. Cut out any rewards for jumping, ever. Reward for 4 paws staying on the ground. Greet your dog only when they’re on the ground and reward (treats and attention) for that.

    Next, have a command to jump, and a command to get down. I have UP UP and OFF. I reward for the OFF. Soon you’ll be able to anticipate a jump and yell OFF to keep all four paws on the ground. Jumping is fun, so reward for OFF.

    Recall, when you do see your dog go after a child or bike when you’re outside. Work your way up to this recall by training with a friend. Start with slow moving close bikes, the easiest scenario and treat treat treat! Work with a long leash that you can step on if they go to run or jump. Train on the outside fence to a playground and work on keeping calm and all 4 paws on the ground. Work on recall with kids running (on the other side of the fence). Here’s more about recall.

    Sensitive and Scared

    Does your dog hide behind you? Maybe she won’t play with others, or maybe she shuts down easily and won’t come and play and cuddle? Maybe he barks when he gets scared and then runs away when there’s a loud noise?

    It’s no fun having a dog that won’t engage and play but the sooner you work on their confidence, the easier it will be! Vizslas are a sensitive breed and are more prone to shutting down due to punishments than other dogs (like labs). They’re more sensitive to emotions, to loud noises, physical trauma, and challenges. While Whiskey, my elder, is very confident, she’s also very sensitive to emotions. Bourbon is very sensitive to anything she deems “scary” and will shut down with dogs that are too physical, and gets traumatized easily with a bad experience.

    My derpy sensitive puppy

    Having a sensitive dog can be great. They will pick up when you’re sad and act appropriately and will be aware of surroundings and people. However, too scared and sensitive can lead to anxieties and bolting. You’ll have to work on your dog’s confidence so they can approach a challenge, try something scary, and be proud when they’ve overcome an obstacle with your help.

    First, if you have a scared dog, use positivity. You must approach with patience and encouragement, no screaming in frustration or plunking them down into something so scary they shut down. Positive reinforcement is key. Then work out the smallest micro-steps you can take to reaching more confidence in whatever is scary. Scared of dogs? Find the most placid older dog that doesn’t mind puppies and doesn’t approach, and go for a short walk with LOTS of treats. Noises? turn the TV on low and slowly increase while feeding peanut butter.

    It can be extremely helpful to take some puppy or dog obedience classes in a controlled environment (with a very respected trainer) with lots of treats and positive reinforcement. If the issue is larger and your dog already has anxiety, work with a trainer one on one and see what you can do everyday to take baby steps. I found dog sports as well to really with connection and overcoming challenges. Training agility with Bourbon has helped her many fears and we’ve been taking micro-steps to approaching and touching a teeter tooter.

    Other reasons you hate your Vizsla?

    What are other reasons your Vizsla is terrible? There is hope and help! They’re the cutest puppies but this breed is not for everyone. Vizslas take more time, emotional space, and training that most other breeds, but be assured that whatever you put into them, you get back x10.

    Guilty puppy eyes
  • How much do Vizslas Weigh? And How big do Hungarian Vizslas get?

    How much do Vizslas Weigh? And How big do Hungarian Vizslas get?

    Here is a chart of Vizsla sizes from XS to XL. They’re taken from a large number of measured Vizslas for sweaters and jackets sold here. Below is also a detailed explanation of the size of Vizslas around the world as well as the measurements.

    American vs European Vizsla size

    North American Vizslas tend to be smaller in stature as well as smaller boned. Even though they are smaller than Australian and European Vizslas, field North American Vizslas are muscular and more square, bigger shoulders with wide chests. Show North American Vizslas have a softer mousier look and are finder boned. In general, European Vizslas grow heavier and larger than Americans and their bones are also on the heavier side. Out of my own Vizslas, Whiskey leans towards the European lines while Bourbon towards the American look.

    Bourbon in front, Whiskey behind. See the paws, chest, and stature differences

    Female vs Male Vizsla size

    Female Vizslas are smaller than males although of course there is a crossover. The smallest of females can be around 35lbs and the largest males I’ve met are over 80lbs. Read more here about the differences between male and female Vizslas.

    Vizsla Standards

    How much does an adult Vizsla get? Well, it depends on female or male Vizslas and there is a slight difference in different parts of the world. In general, European and Australian Vizslas are a bit larger.

    AKC (American Kennel Club) Hungarian Vizsla Standard (1.5 inches above or under are disqualified)
    Female ideally 21-23 inches at shoulders (Bourbon is 21, Whiskey is 22)
    Male ideally 22 to 24 inches at shoulders

    AU Hungarian Vizsla Standard (2cm above or below are disqualified)
    Female 54cm-60cm (21-24 inches)
    Males 58-64cm (23 inches-25 inches)

    UK Hungarian Vizsla Standard
    Female 53cm-60cm (21-24 inches)
    Males 57-64cm (22 inches-25 inches)

    Vizsla Measurement Charts

    What are the measurements of an adult Vizsla or a puppy Vizsla?

    Here’s a chart I’ve been using for my Vizsla sweaters. Everything is approximate but I find them pretty accurate so far. Here’s the details on how to measure

    XSSMLXL
    Back Length17-1919-2020-2222-2423-25
    Chest Girth22.1-25.124.4-28.325.9-29.527.5-30.730-32.5
    Approx weight35-4342-5248-5855-6360+

    Puppy sizes

    How large is an 8 week Vizsla? And how much does an 8 or 12 week old Vizsla weigh? Here are a couple measurements from my own female Vizslas (girls are smaller than boys). Below is a link to a weight chart from my two girls.

    9 weeks3 months
    Back length1415
    Chest Girth1617
    Approx Weight1520

    Here’s some puppy weight charts from Bourbon and Whiskey’s growth

    My Female Vizsla Measurements

    Whiskey (female, 8.5 years) is 51lbs back length 21, collar 14, chest 26.5-27.5 (depending on fitness)

    Bourbon is (female, 2.5yrs) is 47lbs back length 21, collar 14, chest 26

  • What’s better? Males vs Female Vizsla Dogs

    What’s better? Males vs Female Vizsla Dogs

    Trying to choose between getting a female or male puppy? Or just wondering if there’s any difference at all really? I’m no expert (ask your breeder to start!) but here’s a couple things I’ve found over the years.

    Bourbon next to her mom and Brother Rudy

    Physical differences

    The obvious difference is males tend to be slightly taller and larger and of course have anatomical differences. It’s really important I be able to carry my own dog for long periods of time, so for me a smaller dog is very beneficial, however I don’t know this is a concern for most people.

    I need to be able to carry my dogs up ladders and if injured

    Males will tend to mark as well as hump more than females. My Whiskey loves to mark just as much as males, although overall you’ll see this behavior in males more. Humping can also occur in both sexes although it will happen more with male dogs. On the other hand, I know with proper training you can keep dogs from humping, and some unneutered males do not hump or mark.

    Another obvious difference is that unspayed female dogs will go into heat once or twice a year and this can be inconvenient, especially if you have a male dog, or your dog goes to daycare. It’s not been a huge issue for me, and there are solutions like an OSS spay that can keep hormones while preventing pregnancy.

    Bourbon with her fancy panties

    Emotional

    There’s something I keep hearing about Vizslas “Girls love you, and the boys fall IN love with you”. I can see where this comes from, and the differences overall. You cannot really speak to a specific individual but there’s definitely differences overall, just like humans.

    Vizslas love their humans

    Vizslas will all love their humans. They’re velcro dogs that seek human attention and love and want to touch and be with you all day long. Both my girls (and other Vizslas that come live with me) follow me from room to room, and I’m never alone in the bathroom. They all think they’re lap dogs, and they will love snuggle and cuddle.

    However, as much as female Vizslas love to be on your lap and under the desk or behind the chair with you, male Vizslas will love you so hard they’ll be on top of your head. Males will bounce so exuberantly they’ll tackle you with their love, and they’ll want not only to touch you, they want to be part of you. Males are just very enthusiastic and unfiltered and everything is straight from their feelings and into their legs.

    Risky business on cliffs, especially with birds and chipmunks

    Hiking, Working, Dog Sports

    Male dogs in general have less caution when it comes to risk taking, or just thinking about consequences. This is a part of why I chose females. Males tend to run and jump without thinking, without looking at what is on the other side. If they see something move, they will be more likely to run and chase rather than sniffing and thinking. This translates to more dangerous on cliffs with birds, more chance of injury on steep drop-offs or technical hikes, and more chances of making bad decisions with bears and porcupine. Overall I’ve seen many more males quilled and with injuries from running into things than females.

    Another thing to think about, is females tend more to be thinkers, doing things on their own terms. They can be more emotional, opinionated and manipulative. This can be harder for competitions and training if your dog is more prone to doing things on their own terms, depending on the current alignment of stars. Male dogs and Vizslas are less emotional and less prone to emotional swings. For dog sports, males can be bolder and more aggressive attacking new obstacles or challenges.

    So many Vizslas

    Please do keep in mind that these are very generalized statements and each dog is different. While Whiskey is very reliable, fearless, and driven, Bourbon can be quite emotional, tentative and a thinker. However, it can actually be easier to run Bourbon in agility as she’s more accurate about her motions and less aggressive at just attacking whatever she sees in the arena vs actually listening to commands.

    Socialization

    Depending on what you’re looking for (or not looking for) Male dogs are generally more interested in meeting other dogs, more drawn to roaming in an attempt to find a mate. Although Bourbon roams extremely far, she doesn’t go and greet dogs along the way, however I know many long ranging Vizsla males that will go and say hello to others. I personally really like how my females keep to themselves and for the most part we have no problem with other dogs that want to pick a fight or are reactive or anxious. On the other side, they’re both less playful than males, and more standoffish to others on walks.

    Social lives of Vizslas

    Because male dogs are more social, without proper training and socialization they can be more prone to get into fights with strangers. I’ve known too many unneutered male Vizslas that have gotten attacked by neutered male dogs, or just more dominance fights. I feel like this is mainly an issue in North America where most dogs are neutered and many are not socialized properly but it’s definitely a trend.

    Females will still fight, but I think there’s less chances of a stranger random off-leash dog attacking a female, than a male. However, two females in a house that are battling for top dog will be much more vicious and fierce. Males posture more, females are serious when they actually do fight.

    Girls or Boys get the one best for your home

    In Conclusion

    Consider your lifestyle and what other dogs you have in your household. What is most important to you? I wanted a dog I could lift, a dog that would ignore others, one that wouldn’t chase chipmunks off a cliff or chase a bear, and one that didn’t mark up my home. Whiskey was an alpha female and I still introduced another female into my home because I was confident that as much as Whiskey was top dog, she would not be aggressive and would be a good leader for a puppy to follow.

    Much more important than male or female, get yourself a good breeder that’s breeding good genes, healthy, with no aggression and a lovely temperament. Meet the parents and as many other Vizslas as you can and find and train yourself the perfect companion.

  • Timing and Duration of Vizsla Dogs Heat Cycle

    Timing and Duration of Vizsla Dogs Heat Cycle

    When do Vizslas go into heat? They’re all different and the best is to ask about the mother but here’s a list of the dates of my Vizsla’s heat cycles and duration between. Whiskey and Bourbon are from totally different bloodlines.

    I’ve gone back to list Bourbon’s heat timing to try and predict future ones so I thought to list them here. Whiskey has an OSS Spay but still goes into heat. It’s harder to pinpoint the exact start and stop for Whiskey because she doesn’t bleed but it’s still very obvious when she is in the middle of her cycle because her personality around other dogs changes so strongly.

    I’m missing some dates but I’ve calculated time from birth to first heat, and have more accurate information about Bourbon’s heat cycles (female Vizsla bitch).

    Bourbon (Her mother cycles every 6 months)

    Symptoms: less interest in working, more independence, swelling, increased interest in dogs only for the last week

    Born: July 14 2020

    First heat: July 2 2021- July 20 2021
    353 Days, 11 months 18 days

    Dec 21 2021- Jan 7 2022
    172 Days, 5 months 19 days

    July 26 2022- Aug 11 2022
    217 Days, 7 months 5 days

    Feb 6th 2023- Feb 23 2023

    195 Days 6 months 11 days

    Whiskey

    Born: April 15 2014

    Symptoms: decreased appetite for a week before, swelling, decreased energy, increased interest in dogs

    First heat: June 27 2015 – July 15 2015
    438 days 14 months 12 days

    Jan 2016

    May 2016- OSS Spay

    July 2016

    Feb 2017

    Oct 2018

    Oct 2019

    April 2020

    Oct 2020

    April 2021

    Nov 2021

    Dec 2022

  • How to Ski with your Dog (and where)

    How to Ski with your Dog (and where)

    How to start, things to think about, and where to go!

    I love getting outdoors with my Vizslas and when it snows, we still head out. Cross country and backcountry skiing is a really fun way to keep dogs active with you during the winter months. However, there is much more to think about in the winter with dogs, so here’s what we’ve learned.

    Winter Hazards for Dogs

    While the bugs and bears are sleeping and wildlife is less of a concern in the alpine, there is the looming issue of snow, cold temperatures and avalanches. There is also less sunlight so getting lost becomes much more dangerous when the temperatures dip and there are less people on the trails.

    Snow and Cold

    You’ll need more gear in the cold (unless you have a winter mountain dog) and snow to protect both your dog and yourself. I find myself bringing lots of layers for everyone, and also sometimes a dog sleeping bag for longer days. Here’s more on clothing and footwear for dogs in the winter. Expect to carry a larger heavier pack than the summer, and keep your dog moving to the car if you start seeing signs of shivering. It’s always a good idea to check on your dog’s paws and body throughout hikes but it’s especially important in the winter.

    With deep snowpack, running through especially thick deep snow can be exhausting for dogs and hard on their joints and hips. My dogs know to run on the skin tracks or follow behind in deep snow but some dogs may run beyond what they can sustain because they’re having so much fun. Thick crusty snow that gets punched through can also cut dogs paws and legs. Legs can get very bloody if you end up in these conditions, so ask your dog to stay behind your tracks or turn back if you see their legs raw or bloody.

    Tree wells

    Even in mild terrain, if there’s enough snow, there are tree wells. A space of loose snow can form around tree trunks and hidden cavities can easily trap and suffocate dogs (as well as people) that fall in. I’ve heard of several dogs lost overnight when they’ve fallen into tree wells and could not get out. This isn’t just for backcountry skiing, but right off the side of cross country trails. Be aware and keep your dogs in sight at all times.

    Avalanches

    If you’re going into avalanche terrain, make sure you have the training! There are classes available throughout the season and it’s very dangerous to go into terrain without knowledge, gear, and a skilled group of friends. Do not put an avalanche beacon on a dog. In an event a group may be swept away, humans must be first priority and precious time spent digging out a dog instead may mean the life or death of a human. You can put a different beacon on your dog that you can track instead.

    When you travel through avalanche terrain, keep your dogs in control, and in line with the pack. A dog running above may trigger an avalanche above a group of humans or may also be caught in an avalanche even if the humans have been able to avoid one. There was recently a dog rescued after 20 minutes buried in an avalanche in Colorado. Please take precautions!

    Basic Commands for Skiing with a Dog

    There’s a couple things I have taught my Vizslas to do when I ski with them. The first is to get out of my path when I’m going to ski right into them. GO GO GO is the command that I’m right behind and they need to move out of the way. The safest way is to practice this is during running or with cross country skis (something without sharp edges). I just speed up randomly and yell GO GO GO and run them by without hurting them. They learn really quickly to move out when they hear that!

    Another important command is to “STAY BACK” and hang out behind your tracks. That can be taught on leash at first, while walking or running. I use STAY BACK often while hiking on leash and need dogs not to pull in technical terrain.

    “PASS BY” is something I picked up when I was mushing in the Yukon. When two dog teams pass by each other, they need to ignore each other and keep running. “Pass by” means no greeting, no sniffing, you are passing by dogs and you are working. Again, this is best trained while running.

    “STAY CLOSE” and of course full RECALL (“full” meaning the dog comes all the way back and stands by you to be leashed without you stepping forwards) is extremely important when off leash skiing. These should already be in your repertoire but make sure you have these tools before heading out! Lastly, you should be able to leash your dog while on skis at any point (wildlife, dog fight, injury, emergencies, etc) so keep a leash within easy reach.

    Dog etiquette

    It goes without saying (but I’ll say it anyway) pick up after your dog, especially on groomed ski tracks where someone may ski over. The poop also messes up the grooming machines and if this happens too often, dog-friendly becomes no dogs allowed quite quickly!

    Keep your dogs away from leashed dogs or dogs in muzzles, and keep your dogs in the car until you’re all set to go. Off leash dogs in parking lots are super dangerous for both parties. Normally the first 5 minutes dogs are out are when they tend to poop and dog-poop filled parking lots are not fun for anyone.

    Whistler Olympic Center

    If you’re moving quickly, keep your dogs to the side so they don’t run into anyone else skiing in the opposite direction. Keep your dogs from just standing in the middle of a run, especially on a blind turn, and let dogs play off to the side.

    Skijoring, kick sleds

    I’ve never tried! I’ve trained my dogs not to pull but I know lots of people that skijor and love this sport. There’s competitions with teams, as well as bikejoring and canicross (running with dogs pulling you). Make sure you have the correct gear (not just a regular harness and leash) and see if there are classes and competitions in your area (some listed below). For even more fun, try kick sleds on tracks! The faster you go, the bigger wipeouts you’ll have, so first start running and teaching commands before you really go for it.

    Dog Friendly Cross Country Skiing Trails in Canada

    It’s uncommon for dogs to be allowed off leash in cross country ski areas but there are some that do! Some are of these are on-leash, some allow skijoring, and some off leash. Please do your research before going! BC and Alberta have more off leash trails and Ontario and Quebec have more skijoring trails.

    Dog Friendly Cross Country Skiing Trails in USA

    Backcountry Skiing

    There’s lots of places to go backcountry skiing with your dog. The terrain opens everything up, and basically you can go anywhere that’s not dog-prohibited. Just make sure that you have all the essentials for yourself as well as a dog.

    It gets really expensive and dangerous for winter rescues so make sure you’re self sufficient. At minimum carry a satellite communication device, first aid, and have the training to be out. I really like the Whyld River down dog bags as an emergency bivy/dog bag. The XL sizes can fit both you and your dog inside should you get caught out and it packs in extra small.

    as a reward for reading all this, here’s a pug in a backpack going backcountry skiing
  • Guide to a well-dressed Dog: Vizsla Jackets and Sweaters

    Guide to a well-dressed Dog: Vizsla Jackets and Sweaters

    Are you confused with the amount of options of canine jackets and sweaters available on the market? Or maybe you’ve tried several and find nothing fits your skinny long dog properly? There is such a variety of dog breeds from short and stout to long and lean and unless your dog magically fits the “standard” size it can be hard to find something that fits and stays on an athletic crazy running machine. We’ve tried so many different options and this is what I’ve learned.

    Velcro vs Buckles vs Zippers

    This is a big point of difference in choosing a jacket. Ideally you find a jacket with the least amount of connection/adjustment points. This can be counterintuitive as the more adjustment points, the easier it is to get a good fit right? Perhaps, they’re more adjustable, however these jackets will rub more, and will also come off easier with an active playing dog. Jackets with 3-5 Velcro panels are the bane of my existence. They look awful and these panels will come off easily over time.

    Velcro is great for easy of use and quickness, for fitting different dogs without adjustment, and for not rubbing or chaffing on the pup. The downside to Velcro is that it can come off with thick brush, with deep snow collecting, and with rough play. Velcro also degrades with use, especially the cheaper Velcro (there’s a huge difference in quality) so make sure that Velcro jackets are high quality if you want them to last.

    Buckles solve alot of Velcro issues such as inadvertently coming off after rubbing past bush, or a dog pulling the panel with play. Buckles snap easily and can adjust with straps. Sometimes buckles are used in conjunction with Velcro for the best of both worlds. The problem with Buckles is that they don’t have a clean profile, they can rub or get in the way with harnesses, and they’re a small point of connection so jackets have to be structured well in order for them not to unravel or lose shape.

    Zippers are a very clean look and connect a large panel of fabric together. They’re wonderful not coming apart or wearing out, however they are not adjustable so the fit has to be somewhat perfect for only a zipper to be used in a jacket

    Finally, there are jackets and sweaters that do not have any attachment points and depend on the jacket fitting perfectly to the dog to not fall off. I love these the best, but they are the hardest to find and fit as your dog grows and changes!

    Fit for skinny dogs- length vs chest

    Fitting jackets on different shaped dogs are difficult. I find most of the mass produced clothing fit a stout, somewhat rounder and and shorter dog than mine. I’ve had to find specialty dog clothing to fit my Vizslas, or just accept that the length will be shorter and the stomach panel barely covering. These jackets usually twist on the dogs as they run, or leave their backs and stomach open to the elements.

    Here’s a list of dog companies that make long/skinny/lean dog jackets, many of these are custom

    Voyagers K9 Apparel

    Our most used rain jackets and winter jackets come from this brand. They are breed-specific fits and are easy-on easy off with Velcro. There are two Velcro straps which really help keep the jacket on crazy dogs and it’s great quality (I have much experience with sewing and Velcro). The fleece is also very high quality and extra thick. No matter the amount of washing these jackets have gone through, they haven’t seemed to degrade.

    Voyagers is run by an American family with the mother sewing all the jackets and they can be custom to your own dog for an extra fee. There can be added harness holes and custom shapes for an oddly shaped dog. Although puppy teeth and barbed wire will tear the fabric, it holds up much better than other cheaper jackets. *wash these jackets with tech wash

    K9 Voyagers winter jacket

    Chillydogs.ca

    These jackets (the standard option) fit Vizslas perfectly. They also have long and lean (greyhounds) and another cut for short and broad dogs (Bullies). The jackets use both buckles and Velcro, and are quick to put on, never coming off because of the buckle. The winter option covers the front of the chest and has a fleece-lined shell for added wearability. The neck is a bit shorter and less thick fleece than Voyagers but there is the chest panel and buckle. I find the Alpine Blazer to be a great all-round jacket for those days that aren’t too cold, or too wet but just chilly enough to need a jacket.

    Chillydogs Great White North Winter Dog Coat
    Chillydogs Alpine Blazer

    Hurtta

    Hurtta is a company from Finland that have recently expanded to North America. They have some really interesting products that I haven’t seen elsewhere. I especially love the Eco line that uses 100% recycled polyester fabric. Not all Hurtta jackets fit skinny/lean/hairless dogs well but the ones that do are keepers!

    Hurtta’s Expedition Parka was made especially for lean dogs without undercoats like Vizslas. The fabric hugs the dogs (vs a shell that leaves so much air between jacket and muscles) and includes adjustment points as well as a snow trap on the neck that really keeps heat in. There’s a fully chest panel, and the jacket is coated with water wicking properties (not fully waterproof but fine with snow). The jackets use only one buckle but stay in place really nicely.

    Another jacket I love and use is the Extreme Overall. This one is the warmest one-piece clothing I have for the dogs. It’s good for about -15 (once it gets to -20 for 5 hours we switch to layers). The overalls take a bit of time to put the dogs in, but there’s many adjustment points and they fit the dogs well.

    Vizsla Tea

    This is the only brand I haven’t tried but I would recommend if you’re in Europe. I’ve heard good things and they’re made specifically for the Vizsla breed.

    K9topcoat

    I’ve more recently been using K9Top Coat in the winters. Because of our wet and cold climate, we’ve been using the Weatherproof Bodysuit that has the most water-repellency. I haven’t tried the other suits they make, but there are lots of options for dogs that have allergies, injuries, etc. The weatherproof suits have fitted my Vizslas very well (cut the legs off higher or they will snowball). They’re perfect for layering underneath jackets and for camping.

    Bravehound/Redbarkshop

    If style is what you’re looking for, look no further than Bravehound. These are custom made with Vizslas in mind. I sell them in my shop with the measurements taken from 100s of Vizslas in 5 sizes. The sweaters are hand-knit and stretch perfectly as the dog breathes and runs.

    I’ve never been able to find a sweater that actually fit the length of a Vizsla and stretched nicely over their chests so I started bringing these in for sale. There’s a hole for a collar, and my oldest sweater is still lasting nicely, although these aren’t for rough play or running through the bush (They’ve survived all that, but I try not to!). Also machine washable (all the jackets on this list are!), and finally 100% wool.

    There’s also a more fitted vest for sports in the winter and keep the dogs warm. The Bravehound wool gilet is zippered and allows for easy sprinting while keeping the dogs warm (perfect for Cross Country Skiing).

    Bravehound Technical Gilet Vest

    Threadzntails

    You cannot find better fitting onesies (and other shapes) as these are made custom to your dog’s size. They even have matching human hoodies if that’s your thing! Everything is custom to exactly what you want, including collar style, legs, stomach paneling (girls and boys), and fabric type and color or design. For the customization I think the pricing is extremely fair. Since there are no zippers or Velcro, these are very easy to wear, but take a bit of time to slip on. I have friends that are addicted to getting these as they’re so fun to design yourself.

    Puppies

    I think I found this jacket for $8 in the clearance bin and it was just fine for puppy Whiskey

    For puppies I always suggest getting something second-hand to last for the first half-year. The jackets I recommend are not cheap, and unless you want to splurge (or have an ongoing amount of puppies in your household) it may not be money well spent. Puppies also have shark-teeth and are pretty unforgiving in their playing and tumbling so it can be best to wait until after they stop shredding everything in sight. Whiskey had a cheap $8 jacket that was torn and handed down to someone else after she outgrew it.

    Price and Longevity

    As with most things, you tend to get what you pay for. I’ve tried the cheaper mass-produced clothing out there and as well as being poorly fitted, they do not last very long. Whiskey isn’t a hard playing dog, but we’ve ripped several jackets and worn out the Velcro in others. Other times the jackets with tiny stomach panels (many just have a strap) cause the jacket to fall to one side and just get trampled or torn. I love jackets that last, fit perfectly, and look great!

    Rain and Waterproofness

    Voyagers k9 has the most waterproof jacket in the market

    I find most jackets that are “waterproof” or “weatherpoof” will not actually keep a dog dry for 3 hours in a downpour, or wet snowfall. Now, I’m assuming most people do not take their dogs in drenching conditions hiking, but it’s a really good way to test waterproofness in dog jackets. The most waterproof Dog Jacket we’ve found is the Voyagers K9 Apparel. They’re the only ones that have stood up to pouring conditions and are still fully waterproof years later.

    Since I take out multiple dogs at a time, I will use all the jackets I have, and Voyagers consistently keeps the dog dry compared to others. However, nothing will keep Bourbon warm and dry when she jumps in and swims after ducks in the winter… I also highly suggest keeping your jackets (no matter the brand) clean and using a proper “tech” wash to clean the jackets and keep them as waterproof as possible

    Snow and ice

    Whiskey “swimming” in powder

    You make think any jacket that is warm should be fine in the snow, however I’ve found some are much better than others. If snow is going to touch the jacket, it can collect inside (especially those with dogs that like to swim in snow) and it can also cling to certain fabrics, and with body warmth, melt, then turn into ice. There are certain pieces that can freeze up and ice over rubbing the dogs as they run.

    Anything with a stomach panel, especially one that covers the front of the stomach will collect snow with a swimming dog. An example is the Hurtta Expedition Parka. As much as I love this jacket, if Bourbon runs through deep snow, the snow will collect and stay in the chest, and then melt and hold iceballs next to her stomach. The Chillydogs winter jacket is similar in this way. This isn’t a problem for running around in packed snow, leashed walks, and dogs that don’t enjoy swimming.

    I’ve also noticed the Hurtta Overalls legs get icy, as well as the k9topcoat weatherproof bottom legs get iced up. The best option I’ve found for cold legs that need coverage is using the backcountry gaiters.

    Citywear and Loungewear

    It can look ridiculous but these dogs do get cold and sweaters or onesies are really amazing! They’re wonderful underlayers, and great if you keep your dogs in a cold car for competitions or roadtrips, for car camping in the winter, cold cabin days, or just an on-leash walk in the city. Perhaps you have a calmer senior dog that chills quickly with arthritis, have a dog recovering from injury, or a dog that refuses to potty when it’s cold outside? A warm sweater or jacket can be wonderful!

    Lifejackets for Dogs

    There are not too many companies that make dog lifejackets, but here’s a couple to check out.

    Ruffwear – Our favorite that we’re currently using, easy adjustments, hidden straps. The biggest selling point is the front strap, where most jackets are thin and can come out of place, Ruffwear has a thicker front band and the strap doesn’t chafe

    Hurtta – I have not tried but I trust this company

    Outward Hound – A lower price point, I just don’t love the strap system, but works great

    Kurgo – I haven’t tried this one, but Kurgo is a well trusted brand

    Dog Life Jackets are really area dependent (where you can buy them) but I would advise for less straps flapping around and more coverage, You want to be able to lift your dog in any position from the handle and not have your dog fall out or chafe. It’s also really helpful to have a leash attachment point. Since your dog’s life may depend on the life jacket working, I wouldn’t get something cheap off Amazon.

    I’m not sure this brand as I borrowed this lifejacket but it kept Bourbon safe!

    Hunting/protective

    I don’t have much information on protective wear for hunting but guess who does… Accidental BirdDog! Her blog posts have loads of information on hunting and this one covers some protective clothing for hunting dogs.

    Layering- protective and cold

    Whiskey has k9topcoat tights underneath and Bourbon has Backcountry Gaiters as well as Expedition Parka

    We are masters at layering! Hiking in the mountains, and backcountry camping involves adjusting and changing to the weather. I normally carry a couple pieces of clothing for the dogs when we are backcountry camping and layer as needed. Sometimes in the winter, we will start on a warm day and the clouds and snow and wind will come in on the peak and I’ll have to redress the girls right on the trail in order for them to survive.

    Do not be shy from layering, even if it looks ridiculous. I typically like a onesie/tights underneath a warm jacket, and some sort of boots if needed. Dog Googles are great if the wind really picks up and starts shooting snow at your face. If you can barely open your eyes in the wind, your dog will appreciate googles (but these do take training to wear).

  • Dog Boots Guaranteed to stay on: Backcountry Paws Gaiters review

    Dog Boots Guaranteed to stay on: Backcountry Paws Gaiters review

    One of the most interesting pieces of winter dog gear that we’ve used are the Backcountry Paws dog gaiters. Does your dog need, but lose boots all winter long? This might be for you!

    Dog gaiters might look like the weirdest dog contraption but they really are quite functional and solve a couple issues I’ve found no other answers to.

    Whiskey with her Backcountry Paws Dog Gaiters

    The problem:

    Dog booties can be necessary if your dog’s paws are too cold (say -15 degrees), or if your dog’s paws develop snowballs, or if your dog’s paws might need protection for other issues. Fast running energetic dogs lose dog booties all the time and these can be expensive! We tend to use dog booties for hikes less than 2 hours, especially if the trail is wide and easy to find missing booties.

    But what do you do if you are sick and tired of losing dog boots? For those longer hikes, or when I don’t want to spend my time finding lost booties, I use these gaiters. Because the gaiters have boots attached, this makes it impossible to lose boots and voila your issue is fixed! Read on for the caveats!

    Our experience:

    The first time I tried Backcountry Paws gaiters, I was a bit intimidated by the straps but it was fairly straightforward and logical to put on. Whiskey is a really patient dog so she helped us both get used to the gaiters and find out together how to use them. My dogs are right between the sizing. Whiskey has a large size gaiter and Bourbon a Medium. I can fit either in either size but the medium is pretty tight on Whiskey and Bourbon swims in the Large.

    The best uses of these gaiters are on packed trails or loose fresh snow no higher than the knee of the dog. They’re great for active crazy dogs that lose boots, and those that collect snowballs on their paws and lower legs. The gaiters are also good for windy days when you want the entire length of the dog’s legs to be covered. I’ve not found a long-legged bootie that my dogs actually accept and enjoy, that stays on for 4+ hours, outside of this solution.

    How to put on:

    Step 1: Separate the front and back
    Adjust and fit the front paws first

    First you need to separate the front and back of the gaiters. I noramlly start with the front legs (undo the buckles to help). Place the boots atop the dog so you know where the front and back of each leg is before you start. You want to avoid putting the boot on front to back (you cannot tell outside of the top straps) so first get your placement otherwise the boot will be twisted.

    Add the back section and then snap together

    Once the front boots are on, you can place the back boots on and then buckle the back strap to the front section. Make sure the velcro on the boots is on very well because once you hit the snow and the velcro starts icing over, it’s much harder to redo well.

    Suggestions:

    For short haired dogs, I really do suggest tights on underneath. If it’s cold enough to need gaiters, you’re most likely needing a jacket for a short-haired dog and tights will help prevent rubbing. For even colder weather I put a jacket on top of the tights and gaiters (see the photo below). This is a pretty good combo for very long cold days!

    Try putting the contraption on at home first. Gaiters are not the easiest to put on a very excitable dog at the trailhead, in a dark car, without help. With that said, my girls are very patient with all kinds of clothing so I’ve actually not had issues myself, but Whiskey and Bourbon are not the type of dogs to bark or run around a car excitedly at a trailhead.

    Make sure the velcro is done up tight

    Lastly, take the time to really look and do up the straps around the ankles well. Make sure they’re firm and tight, that the paw is entirely the way inside, and that the least amount of strap is hanging loose.

    New version:

    Version one of the gaiters

    Backcountry paws have released version 2 of their gaiters. The first flagship product was very well made. Whiskey still uses it without issues but it’s been really nice to see the improvements. There are less hotspots to rub on the dog with the new version (I normally have the dogs in k9topcoat tights underneath so it hasn’t been an issue for us). The second big improvement are the boots. The inside doesn’t have a seam to rub, and are looking much more comfortable. If your dog has issues with hotspots, get version 2!

    Downsides/Caveats

    There’s been a couple downsides I’ve found with dog gaiters. First, they take a longer time and a more patient dog to put on. You need to familiarize yourself with the system and you’ll have to adjust the straps for your dog the first time, so try to do this at home.

    Second, the gaiters can fill up in deep snow. If you’re snowshoeing and the snow is higher than the knee of the dog, the dog can kick up powered snow into the gaiters and then the snow goes inside and collects. Or if your dog goes swimming in powder, the tops of the legs are not sealed (there is no sealing on any dog jacket). There’s no way for the snow to come out so you’ll have to make sure that your dog isn’t walking around with a bag of snow. I have this issue more with the back legs because of the shape, and sometimes I might take off the back legs but leave the front ones for this reason.

    Snowshoeing in powder led to the back legs being filled up

    Third, the gaiter fit needs to be correct and I find that the paw size needs to match the leg size. For example, you buy the gaiters sized to the leg height, the bootie size may not fit perfectly (especially if your dog is shorter but has gigantic paws). So just check fit before you buy!

    Have you tried these? Do you have comments? What was your experience like?